May I introduce RollsRoyce, the new family 1982 RRC

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hef19898

hef19898

Well-Known Member
Posts
591
Location
Germany
So, there the story goes. You want a Land Rover 110, realize prices are insane and stumble over a RRC and buy it. Then, you just want to clean it up and remove the occasional rust... And before you realize you are stripping wings, replacing roofs, planning to transform the car port into a paint booth as soon as the weather allows... That being said, the plan is to put it back as close to original as possible while retaining the history and character of the car. And to add some stuff to go off-road and camping that can be removed in a heartbeat when needed.
Good things about the car: 2-inch lift kit, Yokohama MTs, a lot of spares, solid mechanics, solid rust proofing, snorkel, orginal parts like carpets such.
Not so good: it went off-road a lit and was dumped in a lake once. And it towed a lot (compressor brake system will most likely be removed one day, and it got a refurbished LT95), both front inner wings are gone beyond hope (didn't touch the rear wings yet, planned for this week).
Pictures to follow!
 
So, there are the pictures (older ones, since then the right front inner wing has been removed as well as the hood, front wings and the interior has been mostly rust treated).

The roof was changed, as the colour shows. Since the Tangier Orange-coloured roof is proof that RollRoyce is my second try on a RRC it will stay that way!

(Hope the picture upload worked...)
 

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Well, I guess it helped that the previous owner was a TUV engineer. :)

Yeah, the snorkel is something not from your ordinary expedition gear website. The tube has to be replaced, so.

One of the worst things are the electrics. The first owner had a multitude of accessories installed. I have never seen wiring like that...
 
So, end of the week update:

A pillars and foot wells are rust proofed

Bonnet, wings, grille, and inner wings are removed and replacement inner wings ordered

Brake pupes are not cut despite some creative removal techniques

Not done but planned:
Fixing the interior floor plates again, paint the rust proofed interior sections, prep the removed body parts for painting. And painting falls flat next week. Also postponed to next week are upper tail gate frame, u-joint replacement, soldering some electric connections. So overall I'm just one week, give or take, behind schedule. Lucky me I have some time at my hand right now!

Lesson learned: brake line pass through the inner font wings and need to be unscrewed. And now the brakes need to be drained and about half a liter of brake fluid added. I guess I'll just add a brake overhaul to the list.

Nice week-end everybody!
 
This week the front floor panels have been fixed again, it turned out that the gearbox tunnel is welded in at the rear end. So no isolation underneath. All worked on surfaces in the front the exterior have been rust treated so far.
Finally the rear part was stripped as well, rear wings and trunk went out. As did the compressor for the towing breaks (also if that is technically the front of the car and not the back).

Tomorrow will be blasting day, 50kg of dry ice and the machines will be picked up before 8 in the morning. I'm so looking forward to this, kind of like a child before Christmas!!!
Fun thing I found behind the rear lights, and I mean really behind attached to the body with a rope: Spare keys for Volvo. Easter came early this year I guess!
 

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Ahhh!!!
Either I'm to stupid to use it or the dry ice cleaning machine sucks! It was less abrasive than my 4 year old with a steel brush, and she doesn't freeze solid for 90 minutes ever 10 or so. Everything that was removed today was done either by hand or a variety of tools. Mostly out of despair...

Well, at least the company I rented from was nice enough to not charge me anything for lack of success. So only a day worth of work lost and not too much money.

Tomorrow will be the day of removing underseal by hand, I am sooo excited NOT. And this evening will be spend meditationally sanding down the removed body panels by hand. Not that my better half will like it a lot, but I guess she will prefer that to having me around un my current mood!
 
Final update for the week.

The underseal removes pretty nicely with a heat gun and something to scratch it of. It's ugly but it works. Another two days and I'm done stripping it of I guess. After that some solvent to get of last residues and then the chassis and underbody will get some rust treatment with owatrol oil and bantho korrux over the course if next week. The final touch will be raptor coating. Fluid film into any opening I find.

I also sanded the first body panels, which was most likely unnecessary except for one. But there are worse things to happen than loosing some original paint I guess.

Bad and good news, I'm running out of time to work full time on the lady. And I still have to replace u-joints, fix new front inner wings, paint the interior and outside body structure, repair a couple of rust holes, fix new tubes to the oil cooler radiator and put the interior back in. Preferably with new back sheets to the door trim, the existing one did take the lake dumping too kindly. Ah, and yes, the electrics... In total a minimum of 15-20 work days. And since I only have next week left the project end just got pushed out considerably. At least it ahas to be road worthy by end of May as the TÜV is due by then... But all being said it was quite productive week in the end!
 
If anyone can tell me what purpose that mushroom-like thing on the exhaust manifold is for that would be cool!
 
hef19898 said:
If anyone can tell me what purpose that mushroom-like thing on the exhaust manifold is for that would be cool!
Click to expand...

If you looks at the plat that the pipe is on there is a second one with tape over it, that is for the cold running system and it is designed to draw air from higher up the engine bay over the exhaust manifolds and then into the intake system, the cold running system runs a vacuum valve to bring the warmed air into the induction system.

Hope that helps.
 
Yes, it does. Already wondered what the tape was for... Just out of curiosity, in case a stainless steel exhaust with stainless manifolds is fitted isn't that impacting that?
 
hef19898 said:
Yes, it does. Already wondered what the tape was for... Just out of curiosity, in case a stainless steel exhaust with stainless manifolds is fitted isn't that impacting that?
Click to expand...
No as it's already redundant as there is no induction pipe work from the manifold to the filter housing ;)

A nice set of tubular headers should increase low end torque.
 
Ah! So I'll put a stainless steel sport exhaust back on the list for next year! My wife is gone kill me...

As we are already ar exhausts, is there a way to get the original manifolds of the engine with the engine in situ? Or is it an engine-out kind of job?
 
Come off in situ, pig of a job on the back studs but doable ;)

Would advise compression test and leakdown test while under there as you will be 1/3rd the way there if the heads needs new gaskets and or valve stem seals or valves need ground and the seats re-cut.
 
O dear... The list of stuff for next year gets longer and longer before I'm done with urgent stuff for now!
 
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