making 90 rwd

I think ARB which way back when pretty much was th eonly brand you could goto with a wad of cash and buy a selectable locker was heavily pushed and marketed as all ARB stuff is. Plus later arbs seem to be worse than older type. Detroit lockers for Rover alxe are a no no as they have issues.............. again unless you get an older one

I have 2x 4.75:1 front rotation Ashcroft HD CWP for my diff. I guess it will be a 4 pin open 24 spline for now one for the trials motor and one for the 90. when I get more dosh or whatever I'll swap out the open diff and fit the ashcroft locker and build a std ring and pinion 4 pin open as a spare for the offroader.

Cool. What sort of road manners does the Detroit locker have at the rear as in does it tend to understeer or oversteer? Don't mind over-steer in the slightest... would probably enjoy it but I hate under-steer if its anything more noticeable than pullling off on slippy or loose services. That's what I was swaying to for the rear but as you said of two minds about the fitting the tru-trac or a sell the one I have and get selectable locker instead.

Like you, my 110 needs to be reliable too as it's my daily, farm workhorse, towing vehicle my offroader and trackcar as well as a toy for the odd days laning so considering it has a fair bit of power needs to have drive-train parts that aren't going to go tits up.
That's why I was going to change to a Salisbury rear axle before buying a rear locker as thought it was stronger than the later P38 style axle but it seems I may have been wrong and it's only the shafts are stronger and the P38 diff is just as good or stronger?

Salisbury is a very strong unit indeed. I have actually made the series rear end lockable by pushing the rear shalf shafts into the diff spyder cheap locker i will only use this for non ALRC events so can be done before the event starts nop need to be selectable.

Road manners well if you power slightly around a tightish corner you tent to understeer slightly come off the power mid corner and it tightens up the inside wheel or slowest is always driven with a detroit. its horrible but managable some people will really not get on with it others will cope.

Yea, I thought that too and surely stronger but was told the other day that the P38 or later 110 diff is stronger. I know the Salisbury shafts might be stronger than whats in the 24spline 110 rover axle but would more important to use the stronger diff and worry about the shafts later with Ashcroft stuff or something.
I like the advantage of being able to remove the pan from the Salisbury axle too

Suppose the only way of seeing would I get on with the detroit is to try get a spin in a Defender with one fitted and see. I've driven cars with welded diffs without any problems but obviously a car is different in that you can adjust things alot easier and quicker than you can in a landy


Good thinking on the rear end for the offroader I'll probably weld up the rear end on my one for the time being until I get the stuff for air-lockers eventually. It's only really for fun events anyway and no real competitive stuff.

Salisbury diff is massivly stronger than any rover variant the gears are huge! you lose an inch of ground clearance but that can be overcome if you dont mind cutting and making a new bottom to the axle.

Cool, I knew it couldn't be weaker than the rover one by even just looking at the shear size of the axle and diff casings!

Loosing an inch of clearance makes no odds really as the guard on the 110 diff wraps around underneath so either way, it works out as the same clearance as with the salisbury you can just bolt on a heavy duty pan.
Salisbury rear end and a detroit on the shopping list so then


Thanks for clearing it up, Jai!