M51 (non) Running Issue

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Sure you've not got the hex key on the fanbelt tensioner?

Thanks for your reply Tomcat, much appreciated as its Boxing Day :)

I'm sure it's the correct part as it matches the RAvE manual and its opposite the injection pump inline with shaft, see below:-

Using 17mm drain key with spanner to undo-

Rave-

Regards, Alex.
 
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Thanks for your reply Tomcat, much appreciated as its Boxing Day :)

I'm sure it's the correct part as it matches the RAvE manual and its opposite the injection pump inline with shaft, see below:-

Using 17mm drain key with spanner to undo-

Rave-

Regards, Alex.
Yup that's right, try as per my edited post, hard day's drinking yesterday;) might be the same today:D
 
Yup that's right, try as per my edited post, hard day's drinking yesterday;) might be the same today:D

Thanks, will do but as its just started raining and no extra pair of hands today so I've followed your lead and retired to the comfort of more food and drink :D

Regards, Alex.
 
Thanks for your reply Tomcat, much appreciated as its Boxing Day :)

I'm sure it's the correct part as it matches the RAvE manual and its opposite the injection pump inline with shaft, see below:-

Using 17mm drain key with spanner to undo-

Rave-

Regards, Alex.

Not sure what you are trying to do, unless I'm very much mistaken, that photo is of the serpentine belt tensioner, no need to remove the cap if you want the belt off, just key in hole and lean on it to release the tension on the belt, nowt to do with the FIP unless it's for ease of access.
 
Not sure what you are trying to do, unless I'm very much mistaken, that photo is of the serpentine belt tensioner, no need to remove the cap if you want the belt off, just key in hole and lean on it to release the tension on the belt, nowt to do with the FIP unless it's for ease of access.

Thanks for your reply.

I'm removing the injection pump and following the RAVE manual. I need to remove the cap in order to undo the bolt on the injection pump shaft, but the cap isn't coming off, instead it turns and the entire tensioner fulcrum is moving away from the engine case. I'm assuming the thread on the cap is seized.
 
Thanks for your reply.

I'm removing the injection pump and following the RAVE manual. I need to remove the cap in order to undo the bolt on the injection pump shaft, but the cap isn't coming off, instead it turns and the entire tensioner fulcrum is moving away from the engine case. I'm assuming the thread on the cap is seized.

You will have to remove the tensioner and pivot. Then put the large hexigon in a vice to undo the cap. The replace the pivot to engage the sprocket holder in.
 
You will have to remove the tensioner and pivot. Then put the large hexigon in a vice to undo the cap. The replace the pivot to engage the sprocket holder in.

Thanks. I can see how to take the tensioner and belt off in the manual, although nothing about the pivot? I guess if I keep rotating it, it'll come off but I'm not sure of how it's attached or if it risks damaging anything else.

Regards, Alex.
 
Thanks. I can see how to take the tensioner and belt off in the manual, although nothing about the pivot? I guess if I keep rotating it, it'll come off but I'm not sure of how it's attached or if it risks damaging anything else.

Regards, Alex.

It is screwed into the front case on a large thread sealed by an O'ring it has a very large hex on it to tighten it into the case. Put that in a vice or use a large socket and use steady pressure on the cap to remove it. If you remove the tensioner spring, tensioner pulley and belt you should be able to screw it out. Free off and lube tensioner on reassemble as needed.
 
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It is screwed into the front case on a large thread sealed by an O'ring it has a very large hex on it to tighten it into the case. Put that in a vice or use a large socket and use steady pressure on the cap to remove it. If you remove the tensioner spring, tensioner pulley and belt you should be able to screw it out. Free off and lube tensioner on reassemble as needed.

Excellent, thanks.

Regards, Alex.
 
Happy New Year all! :clap2:

I spent most of this afternoon completing the injection pump swap. After timing the pump correctly, I still have the same issue as before :confused: This has obviously left me a bit deflated to say the least.

I'm running out of ideas (and money!) to fix this. The last thing on my list now are the injectors, although I'd welcome more informed advice on what to check next.

Many Thanks.

(I need a drink...)
 
Happy New Year all! :clap2:

I spent most of this afternoon completing the injection pump swap. After timing the pump correctly, I still have the same issue as before :confused: This has obviously left me a bit deflated to say the least.

I'm running out of ideas (and money!) to fix this. The last thing on my list now are the injectors, although I'd welcome more informed advice on what to check next.

Many Thanks.

(I need a drink...)

Have not looked back through the thread, but i take it you have made sure the exhaust is not blocked?
 
See if it fires with a dose of Easy start. Not to be recommended normally but will prove it is capable of firing.

There is a video of it starting Keith with manifold off. White smoke from EGR feed pipe on cranking and clouds of white smoke from it when it fires up. Then stops, could be exhaust blocked. Bit of an enigma this one.
 
Ah, didn't see the vid. White smoke = water or unburnt fuel?

Thanks for your reply.

It was compression tested which came back good. So far oil and water both look clean. Fumes do exit the main exhaust but not like the EGR pipe (although this could be down to the size of the pipe etc). I will check it to cross another thing off.

To me it sounds like the engine is being shutdown deliberately by the ECU when it stops, e.g. The stop solenoid is activating, how would I test this with a multimeter?

Many Thanks, Alex.
 
Thanks for your reply.

It was compression tested which came back good. So far oil and water both look clean. Fumes do exit the main exhaust but not like the EGR pipe (although this could be down to the size of the pipe etc). I will check it to cross another thing off.

To me it sounds like the engine is being shutdown deliberately by the ECU when it stops, e.g. The stop solenoid is activating, how would I test this with a multimeter?

Many Thanks, Alex.

The ECU should only shut the engine down via the stop solenoid if the quantity servo position feedback sensor has a major fail. Under normal conditions on switch off, it is the quantity servo that shuts the engine down by giving zero fuel. The stop valve is just a back up to this function.
 
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The ECU should only shut the engine down via the stop solenoid if the quantity servo position feedback sensor has a major fail. Under normal conditions on switch off, it is the quantity servo that shuts the engine down by giving zero fuel. The stop valve is just a back up to this function.

Thanks for this explanation.

Could a dodgy crank position sensor cause this kind of issue? I've noticed there is no plastic plug on the flywheel timing pin hole also, which could be letting debris in, could this interfere with the sensor?

Many Thanks, Alex.
 
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