M reg 300 tdi Discovery Auto Servicing?

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markw

New Member
Posts
145
Location
some where over the rainbow
:confused:
I'm looking for any/ all information on what's included in

a. A full service?

b. A major service?

there is a rather large difference in price (£100) between the two :eek:


what parts are replaced/ checked and what adjustments are done if any?

are there any places locally to where i live that are

Recomended?
Trust worthy?
Reasonably priced?
and do any/ all work asked/paid to do?

I live by jnc 9 m6 between Wednesbury/Walsall.

I'm also looking for a few other jobs to be done at the same time too.

Any recomendations and most importantly what is being done for the money in the different services :)
 
:confused:
I'm looking for any/ all information on what's included in

a. A full service?

b. A major service?

there is a rather large difference in price (£100) between the two :eek:


what parts are replaced/ checked and what adjustments are done if any?

are there any places locally to where i live that are

Recomended?
Trust worthy?
Reasonably priced?
and do any/ all work asked/paid to do?

I live by jnc 9 m6 between Wednesbury/Walsall.

I'm also looking for a few other jobs to be done at the same time too.

Any recomendations and most importantly what is being done for the money in the different services :)

I think to be honest with you, this is a question which should be put to any potential garage. The problem is that even though there are "official" service lists for major and minor services, a lot of garages don't actually follow them strictly.

As a result you can end up with the a garage's interpretation of major and minor service.

For example, on a Discovery, it is very common for a local non-LR specialist, to considor a minor service as being just an engine oil & filter change and " a bit of a look 'round". That's not good enough !!

What you need to find is a garage who can give you a copy of the printed sheet they work by, so that you can then make a judgement about value.

Just as a matter of interest, why don't you do it yerself? It's easy and straightford (mainly!) and you'll get to learn loads more about your vehicle - and save shedloads of dosh !! :D :D
 
i do try to do what i can, always used to tinker and restore old series land rovers and various classic cars.
After my accident i have restricted movement, and the sillyest jobs take what seems to be forever.
( i have to come to terms with i can't do things as i used to ! )

i'm also new to diesel engines, and not too sure what i,m doing also being auto seems like a whole new ball game!

i have already done a few jobs with the help of yourself and the other guys on here, which i enjoyed again even though took a while.

last time i spoke to you guys i fitted a egr blanking kit, inc top hose.

i have been thinking of changing the fuel filter and servicing it myself but can't get lift pump to build pressure up. some have said it's touching the tab in the engine and to turn the engine a quarter of a turn but being auto i,m stumped as to how.

every time i turn the key trying to move position it starts and stops in the same place again?

i have a starting problem i'm trying to sort by narrowing it down one job at a time. this is getting better but still not right.

it first started by cranking over for what seemed like forever.
did different things as advised,

some i have not done yet ie change the lift pump! (this is partly due to bleading the system but cany get the right position to pump by hand)

i changed the leak off pipes in the week and its starting better but still not right.

after changing the leak off pipes it starts almost first time but i have to put and hold the acceletator pedal on the floor?

if i don't it just keeps turning without firing up!
could this be the lift pump now?

any sugestions will be great!

i have my mot coming 6 weeks away what should i be looking for ?
its the 1st mot since ive had her!
not sure how well she 's been looked after by previous owners!
what are the major things i could check before i take her, and possibly put right before she goes?

any and all info welcome
 
to " one life live it"

i emailed that company, very help full.
they explained the difference between each etc, prices seemed very reasonable too.
what they like for booking in? is there a waiting time? forgot to ask!

also tried the other company recomended in dudley but seemed to give me the brush off and found prices through the roof! £500+ for service!

anyone got any thoughts on self servicing, are things difficult to access as previously said i have restricted movement and things seem and take longer than they should. i don't mind the time as i have nothing but these days....!
it's the crouching and bending and fiddely things.

or would i be better admiting defeat and letting a trusted garage loose?

all coments welcome.
 
to " one life live it"

i emailed that company, very help full.
they explained the difference between each etc, prices seemed very reasonable too.
what they like for booking in? is there a waiting time? forgot to ask!

also tried the other company recomended in dudley but seemed to give me the brush off and found prices through the roof! £500+ for service!

anyone got any thoughts on self servicing, are things difficult to access as previously said i have restricted movement and things seem and take longer than they should. i don't mind the time as i have nothing but these days....!
it's the crouching and bending and fiddely things.

or would i be better admiting defeat and letting a trusted garage loose?

all coments welcome.

Hi there, assuming you have a reasonable selection of tools and a dry, windproof place to work (which I don't have grrrr.!) most of the servicing jobs are like a big mechano set. Straightforward to do.

Just done an oil & filter change on my Tdi 300, took about half an hour, piece of cake. The only slightly awkward bit is getting the old oil filter off, but with oil filter grips it's easier.

The thing about doing it yourself is, yes, you will save money, but perhaps more than that, you will do the services more often because they don't cost much except your time. I change the oil in ours every 5,000 miles - and they run really well. Also, there are places like Paddock Spares where you can get Tdi 300 filter sets (oil, air & fuel) for £7 the lot!!!!! At that price, you would change them often wouldn't you?

I'm in the same boat as you in that I now have the time. So when I do an oil change, I don't just let the bulk of the old oil out, I'll leave it for half an hour dripping the old crap out while I have a coffee. The benefit is that the new stuff stays looking new for MUCH longer.

In terms of servicing there's probably nothing you couldn't do yourself and it's very satifying to see & know it's been done right (hopefully :eek: )

Any help you want from me just ask, I can't be there in person because I'm living in France, but advice and info, I got.

Cheers
Dave
 
cheers dave the encouragment is great.

think i will try to do most if not all my self, any ideas on bleeding the fuel system without the manual lift pump? being auto difficult to get it off the compression in engine. suggestions please !

been under her today! good and bad from what i could see.

both sills and front and rear inner wheel arches both sides look ok no signs of rot.

boot floor a different matter !!!!!

looks like new one, all the cross braces except the hat shaped one near back door that crosses tank rottern. think part no ( alr 8520 ).

whats the best way to get floor out?

seen various ways suggested,

get grinder and cut the whole floor out replace all braces
or drill out the spot welds seperate the floor?

i've not got much welding experiance but do have gasless mig welder.
i have seen the poprivet way which seems the eastest way to go. i could weld in the braces though.

also the body mounts on the rear cross member started to rot, one has a whole about the size of a 2p peice the other one about 1/2 p peice.
can these have a plate welded on or do they have to be replaced ?

also the plate on the rear axle where the rear shoker mounts has a whole rotted through!
can these be replaced or welded ? does any one have suggestions ?

other than the thing listed above every thing else looks ok but i,m not an mot tester!
are there other things i should check before hand and do whilst doing other jobs?

any comments welcome

mark
 
Check prop shaft U/Js, all brake pipes inc. flexies, jack up and check for play in wheel bearings. Top up both axles, gearbox,front swivels and brake fluid level. If you've got P.A.S. top up level. Check handbrake working correctly. Check all bulbs, wipers, washers and horn. Rear fog lamp. Reversing lamp. Check for undue play in steering column. Make sre all running brakes working. Indictors. four ways. Make sure all seat belts in good nick.

Anybody got anything else to add?
 
hi mark there times arent usualy 2 bad for waiting to be honest . there tops in the landy field and at 25 qwid an hour labour i think youl have to go a bit 2 get another price like that . i wouldnt trust my landy in anyone elses hands but each to there own . youl get a full service report and youl know you have had a top service off jim .or as above have a go at servicing yourself you got nothin 2 lose .?
 
cheers dave the encouragment is great.


boot floor a different matter !!!!!

looks like new one, all the cross braces except the hat shaped one near back door that crosses tank rottern. think part no ( alr 8520 ).

whats the best way to get floor out?

seen various ways suggested,

get grinder and cut the whole floor out replace all braces
or drill out the spot welds seperate the floor?

i've not got much welding experiance but do have gasless mig welder.
i have seen the poprivet way which seems the eastest way to go. i could weld in the braces though.

also the body mounts on the rear cross member started to rot, one has a whole about the size of a 2p peice the other one about 1/2 p peice.
can these have a plate welded on or do they have to be replaced ?

also the plate on the rear axle where the rear shoker mounts has a whole rotted through!
can these be replaced or welded ? does any one have suggestions ?

other than the thing listed above every thing else looks ok but i,m not an mot tester!
are there other things i should check before hand and do whilst doing other jobs?

any comments welcome

mark

Hi Mark, I'm glad you're already getting stuck in, that's the way !!:cool:

Here's a link you might find interesting:

Land Rover UK Forums

Any else just holler,

Cheers
Dave
 
When I did my rear floor I cut out rot on old floor painted it wiv hammerite and slapped new floor on top of old bedded on with loads of silicone and adhesive.I even cut a hole where seat belt mounting go's and sliped new floor over it.Few pop rivets here and there sorted.Didn't fancy all that drop the fuel tank carry on .Had to do slight adjustment with big F off hammer to get back seat to drop down and lock in place. Should last me a few years.
 
Bit confused by this:

also tried the other company recomended in dudley but seemed to give me the brush off and found prices through the roof! £500+ for service!

That's not me ^^^^ nobody has asked me for a service price on a 300TDi for a while. It just looks like you mean you asked me as I only know one other place in Dudley and they haven't been mentioned on this thread.

If I could charge £500+ for a major service, I'd be laughing! Unfortunately, a major service on an auto 300TDI is still below £300, so I'm still poor.
 
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