Lumpy start up and white smoke

Hi to all, I am new to the website so forgive me if posted in wrong section?
I have a Freelander td4 2004 which is the 3rd one I have owned . I am having problems with lumpy start up and white smoke , in the last few days I have replaced pollen filter ( cabin ) air filter ,fuel filter, oil filter after oil change, replaced the crankcase breather with the new modified bmw one . The car drives much better since all this has been done but still having problems on start up? I have ordered a egr blank off kit but unsure if this will help? any advice / help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

EGR isn't going to help starting.

I believe you need to have your injectors checked and the injector loom.

Plenty on here - give it a search.

The injectors are the likely cause for this. Don't use supermarket fuel as a first step. BP or Shell should be your fuel suppliers for good running. Also use a decent fuel injector cleaner. I use Comma Diesel Magic which works. Others have had success with other additives.
Don't pootle about in a TD4 as they need a good blast to keep them clean in the combustion chamber

Agreed as above leak back test them go from there, if the test is ok them move onto the loom if that too is ok add the injector cleaner, or you could do it vice versa please keep us informed that way it helps others in the future

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forte-Spe...334913?hash=item2ef3d54101:g:448AAOSw-kdXybjq

Hi, Thanks to all for the replies, there is a vast improvement in the way the car drives since I have replaced all the filters and oil change etc, I still have to change the turbo vent filter and fit the egr blank kit, waiting on delivery. I will check the injectors when I fit these parts. There seems to be less smoke on start up, but what we have noticed is it struggles to start sometimes on a hill? A bit about my car 2004 ( 54 reg ) td4 75,000 miles full service mostly land rover , garage I purchased the car from said they gave it a service, who knows? hence me servicing it myself, will add injector cleaner soon and will see what happens. will keep you posted. thanks again.

Lumpy start = injector problem
Not starting on hills = fuel pump failing, probably the low pressure one.
I use Miller's diesel power ecomax with good results.
Mike

Hi mike, do you use this additive on every fill up?
And should I replace the fuel pump? It's not noisy which is why I dismissed this as being the problem.

I use 50ml at every fill up, I always fill the tank and use branded fuel, mainly Texaco.
Fuel pumps are difficult to diagnose. The low pressure usually stops it starting on hills and will then make the car lose power as it degrades.
But the high pressure pump is a nightmare to diagnose. Alot on here have had a problem with a small gasket leaking in this pump that can give similar issues.
The low pressure is cheaper and easier to replace, if it's been on over 5 years I'd replace it anyway with an OEM or Landover one, cheap ones fail really fast.
Mike

When you say it won't start on hills - do you mean the engine won't start or it hasn't got the power to pull away.?

The engine sounds as though for a brief second that it has ran out of fuel, then it starts no problem with plenty power.
Ran into a bit of a problem here, I'm in the process of blanking of the egr and all bolts in done but the egr seems to be stuck to the exhaust gas pipe.. In a bit to loosen it I have stretched it any ideas what to do now?
Pulling my hair out here and dog in easy reach of kicking...

Stretching that metal pipe is no big deal. It has a collar on it that can be loosened, then prised off with a screw driver.
Mike

Please see pic inserted.. Have slackened off jubilee clip but the unit won't come away from the gas pipe..
Is there something else I should be undoing ?

No.
Spray with wd40 or similar, leave for a bit, then prise off. It's stuck on with exhaust gunk and the 2 metals reacting with each other.
Mike

]It's off.. Thanks for your help what I have now noticed is the kit I have doesn't have the round blanking plate, instead I have a blanking plate that is oval that fits to the other end of the pipe. Should I be blanking the gas pipe? Kit says to leave?

Yes, stick a coin in it!
Mike

Dakota13 said:

]It's off.. Thanks for your help what I have now noticed is the kit I have doesn't have the round blanking plate, instead I have a blanking plate that is oval that fits to the other end of the pipe. Should I be blanking the gas pipe? Kit says to leave?

Click to expand...

What blanking kit did you get? They normally have a welded on stem with a coin shaped plug on the end. This goes into the worm clip to seal the hole. It needs sealing or exhaust gasses will fill the engine bay.

I have an oval shaped blanking plate, the intructions that came with the kit says to remove the gas exhaust pipe completely and replace with the blanking plate provided. Only problem is I can't get to the bolts to remove the pipe? Decided to try skinni Mikes advice for ease but it leaked... Any ideas how to remove this pipe? Wish I'd gone with the other kit now..

Clean out the original EGR re-fit it until you can get hold of the by pass one with the same fitting, I say this because if you ever change your mind and want the original back in place you will not have all the hassle of removing the Air Filter cover etc to remove the pipe as you have to now to add the blanking plate that as come with your kit you purchased.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...604449?hash=item3f47dcfc21:g:zYkAAOSwc1FXX~9W
Or for real quality go for this one below.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rove...del:75&hash=item1a11272931:g:8TIAAOSwbqpT1gUt
Cheapest out there and should also work fine.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rover-75-...025161?hash=item259c0f1949:g:YfcAAOSwuMFUmTCE

Buying the kit with fitting is the best idea. But you can try filling the ridge with exhaust sealer then put the coin in.
Mike

Have removed the kit I had and sent it back and ordered the correct one with blanking plate attached, I did fabricate a plate and attached to blank off the hose but still leaking, so would have to seal it as you say, but decided on buying the correct one. much less hassle than taking parts off to get to the bolts off the manifold end. you live and learn, the hard way