Lump idle + throttle response when cold?

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

MikeV8SE

New Member
Posts
1,771
Location
Bucks
OK, it's been pretty cold lately and the RR has been stood for a few days, so I imagine a "deep chill" has set in! Anyway, when I start it up it starts OK (couple of turns, but then it is cold!) and idles OK, if a little lumpy.

However, when I go to accelerate the revs dip, almost to the point of stalling, before picking up. Also, if I give it a rev and let the revs come back down, they fall below the normal idle speed, again almost to the point of staklling, then come back to idle fine. As soon as it's warmed up (aided by the cardboard over the radiator!) it's fine.

Now, this only happens when it's really cold. I'm gonna clean the MAF this weekend (I'm told a bit of brake or carb cleaner is ideal?) and also change the air filter for a K&N replacement next week as the stock item looks filthy! Will this help or should I be looking elsewhere for a solution? TPS maybe?
 
OK, it's been pretty cold lately and the RR has been stood for a few days, so I imagine a "deep chill" has set in! Anyway, when I start it up it starts OK (couple of turns, but then it is cold!) and idles OK, if a little lumpy.

However, when I go to accelerate the revs dip, almost to the point of stalling, before picking up. Also, if I give it a rev and let the revs come back down, they fall below the normal idle speed, again almost to the point of staklling, then come back to idle fine. As soon as it's warmed up (aided by the cardboard over the radiator!) it's fine.

Now, this only happens when it's really cold. I'm gonna clean the MAF this weekend (I'm told a bit of brake or carb cleaner is ideal?) and also change the air filter for a K&N replacement next week as the stock item looks filthy! Will this help or should I be looking elsewhere for a solution? TPS maybe?

Sounds pretty normal. Freezing cold engines never run well it's a fact of life. If the filter is filthy and clogged up i would be bloody amazed if it did not help.
 
Sounds pretty normal. Freezing cold engines never run well it's a fact of life. If the filter is filthy and clogged up i would be bloody amazed if it did not help.

Agree totally; all engines (petrol or weasel) suffer cold temps.......the nearer to normal operating range the smoother, more efficient they become
 
Stepper? EFi sensor??

Stepper motor is on the idle air bypass valve on the rear of the air intake plenum. It occasionally sticks and can be removed (using 5.5mm allen key iirc) and freed off with a little spray of WD40. EFI coolant temperature sensor is at the front top of the engine, close to the dizzy cap. The fuel injection ECU adjusts the mixture depending on the engine temperature indicated by the sensor. You can get a replacement ETC8496 for less than a tenner.
 
Stepper motor is on the idle air bypass valve on the rear of the air intake plenum. It occasionally sticks and can be removed (using 5.5mm allen key iirc) and freed off with a little spray of WD40. EFI coolant temperature sensor is at the front top of the engine, close to the dizzy cap. The fuel injection ECU adjusts the mixture depending on the engine temperature indicated by the sensor. You can get a replacement ETC8496 for less than a tenner.


Was just gonna say the same.........

not! Great Info!!!!!!!!!!:praise:
 
Stepper motor is on the idle air bypass valve on the rear of the air intake plenum. It occasionally sticks and can be removed (using 5.5mm allen key iirc) and freed off with a little spray of WD40. EFI coolant temperature sensor is at the front top of the engine, close to the dizzy cap. The fuel injection ECU adjusts the mixture depending on the engine temperature indicated by the sensor. You can get a replacement ETC8496 for less than a tenner.

Awesome, thank you!
 
OK, it's been pretty cold lately and the RR has been stood for a few days, so I imagine a "deep chill" has set in! Anyway, when I start it up it starts OK (couple of turns, but then it is cold!) and idles OK, if a little lumpy.

However, when I go to accelerate the revs dip, almost to the point of stalling, before picking up. Also, if I give it a rev and let the revs come back down, they fall below the normal idle speed, again almost to the point of staklling, then come back to idle fine. As soon as it's warmed up (aided by the cardboard over the radiator!) it's fine.

Now, this only happens when it's really cold.
Yeah, they do that. It sounds fine LEAVE IT ALONE. In any event, I would be inclined to maybe check ignition timing and VAC advance if it is bogging down on acceleration then nearly stalling idling down but I'm sure you'd know if you had a timing problem.
 
Yeah, they do that. It sounds fine LEAVE IT ALONE. In any event, I would be inclined to maybe check ignition timing and VAC advance if it is bogging down on acceleration then nearly stalling idling down but I'm sure you'd know if you had a timing problem.

Thing is, as it's been sat for 4 years it needs a bit of TLC to get it running sweet again. Oil is fine, coolant been changed - just working my way round the car, so new air filter and cleaning the MAF sensor is next! Looks to have a new dizzy and leads so that's good, haven't checked the spark plugs yet but got no reason to think they're anything but good.

Will give the stepper and EFI temp sensors a check over this weekend too.
 
Thing is, as it's been sat for 4 years it needs a bit of TLC to get it running sweet again. Oil is fine, coolant been changed - just working my way round the car, so new air filter and cleaning the MAF sensor is next! Looks to have a new dizzy and leads so that's good, haven't checked the spark plugs yet but got no reason to think they're anything but good.

Will give the stepper and EFI temp sensors a check over this weekend too.

If it's starting well in this cold weather your temp sensor is fine. Clean idle valve and change the air filter. Check the plugs, if they are old, when fuel is increased for cold start and if idle valve is not opening properly to give fast idle, they maybe with the extra fuel and reduced air supply from sticky idle valve and clogged filter, be fluffing. Producing a yellow spark, which is not hot enough to ignite the rich mixture. Just a couple of plugs doing this is enough to give you lumpy idle.
 
mine was like this turned out it was non landrover igntion parts. so magnecore or landrover leads. lucas are no good as are pattern parts which are ****e.
 
I guess I need to compare with another RRC ideally, see if it's "normal" or not - it's not bad, but then I'm used to a much more modern car I guess!
 
Brake cleaning fluids are very aggressive. Use `em by all means, but don`t overspray if using an aerosol, and be sure to clean any residue.
 
Back
Top