new landy 3 man
Member
- Posts
- 71
- Location
- Manchester
Good evening everyone, could any body please tell me how the short heater cable is attached to the two flaps located in the lower dashboard ,and if possible a picture Thanks Steve
Lower dashboard heater flaps
- Thread starter new landy 3 man
- Start date
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swordcollector1
New Member
- Posts
- 9
- Location
- Sidmouth
Coincidentally I'm just doing this sort of job myself. The cable goes into the heater box top and then attaches to the right-hand (nearest driver) flap by a trunnion - see pic. You need to remove the heater box top to get at it (22 small screws, many of which may be rusty). In my case the hole the cable passes through in the box top was also nearly rusted out, so I'll need to strengthen that part when I put everything back together.
hth
John
hth
John
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Land Raver
Well-Known Member
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- 2,015
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- In the dog house
That long thin spring type thing seemed to come loose on mine and fell out of the duct hole. I have managed to 'manually adjust' mine so that the flaps are half open so air is roughly 50/50 to the screen / footwell ducts. Not found the motivation or need to drop the dash and properly repair yet. I'm hoping that soon someone will manufacture replacement aftermarket ones.
swordcollector1
New Member
- Posts
- 9
- Location
- Sidmouth
I think one weakness is that the spring is only held in place by a lip on the inner box face on one end and the pressure of that little bar behind the cut-out on the paddle flap on the other. If either of those goes then there's nothing to stop the spring falling out and more strain then goes onto the remaining spring. Once you add in the inevitable breaking down of any sealing pads or strips over time I would imagine once rust gets in and takes hold there are just too many places for it all to fail.
rob1miles
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,565
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- Slough and Bath
Can you put cable ties around the parts to keep them in place?
swordcollector1
New Member
- Posts
- 9
- Location
- Sidmouth
By the time you've gone to bother of opening it up you may as well fix it - the sheet steel of the box is very thin and you could probably patch it with rivets and glue! If the lip (bottom right of my pic) is rotted then the spring has nothing to bear against.
new landy 3 man
Member
- Posts
- 71
- Location
- Manchester
Thanks for all your help did not realise there is a small trunion now got the idea Regards Steve
ObiWanKenobi
Active Member
- Posts
- 103
- Location
- Virginia, USA
Hi Guys -
I have a Series 2A, and I thought I was just supposed to open the little door down under the dash near my knee, and that would divert some warm air to my feet. I did see that sliding ratchet heater lever and I moved it, but I didn't think it did anything. Pardon my being new to this, but is that sliding lever supposed to control the airflow, and do I need to manually open the little door as well? How long does it take for the heater to blow warm air? Temperature here in AM now is 0 C or 32 F.
Thanks!
Mike
I have a Series 2A, and I thought I was just supposed to open the little door down under the dash near my knee, and that would divert some warm air to my feet. I did see that sliding ratchet heater lever and I moved it, but I didn't think it did anything. Pardon my being new to this, but is that sliding lever supposed to control the airflow, and do I need to manually open the little door as well? How long does it take for the heater to blow warm air? Temperature here in AM now is 0 C or 32 F.
Thanks!
Mike
tottot
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 8,082
- Location
- west wales coast
The only controls my late 2a had for the heater were the flaps and a tap to control the water flow to the heater.
