Disco 2 low ball joint split covers for MOT

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Have never seen split covers before! And looking at the reviews on the ebay site!! Big question mark!!

TBH! I would buy TDR100780 via ebay and spend a couple of hours replacing it or them!

Kev
 
As stated in the description for this item are only for track rod ends and track control arms, which my experience all steering ball joints have a hard time.
With my D1, I found that 3 out of 4 of the steering joints had iffy dust covers when l did my pre MOT check, and as expected also there was either play or stiffness in the 4 joints.

So instead of fitting dust covers just to pass the MOT I replace all the joints, and the result was steering was now smooth and light just like new.
 
Last edited:
Make sure you replace them with a quality part. My lads steering joint rubbers on his 90 have split after 12 months, and they were Terrafirma. Buy cheap, replace twice.
 
Thank you for your info. I am trying to undo rod end ball joint, I tried 17mm socket is small but 19mm (12 points) one seems a bit bigger? What size is exactly?
 
Do you have an AF set 11/16 is 17.5mm ish, or 6 point metric may work.

I don't know, I just have loads and find 1 that fits ;).
have you cleaned it off it could be covered in a layer of not socket sized rust/crud.

You own a landy and DIY gives you free pass to go out and buy more shiny tools:vb-banana:.

J
 

Next time you post an eBay URL, you can delete everything after (and including) the question mark ... all that detail is who you are, what you,ve been looking ans aother tracking info etc.

 
Hi my landy failed MOT for "Suspension arm ball joint dust cover no longer prevents the ingress of dirty Nearside Front", MOT tester showed me aged and broken covers. I see there are split covers on ebay

Has someone used it for MOT? Is it easy to install it?
Also the items shown in your link are not compatible with a D2 according to the ‘find parts that fit’ search facility that the item has.☹️
 
Yes, I can do it again tomorrow. When I removed rear caliper before, the socket fits rusty 13 mm bolt straight way.
 
Split covers would be as good as the split cv boots you used to get utter pishh, im sick of buying trackrod ends ect
the rubbers dont last 6 months. :mad:

Ive ordered polyboots for mine & they havent arrived yet so cant say how good they are.........
https://polyboots.com/ got mine from gwenlewis4x4

1688167805113.png
 
They look interesting (you like yellow don't you Kev) :vb-drinky:

Pics and a report needed...

I have already asked him that when he first mentioned them, so waiting too:)
And as it happens the company is actually based here in BG as Kev pointed out, so for a change easy for me to get:banana:

J
 
They look interesting (you like yellow don't you Kev) :vb-drinky:

Pics and a report needed...

I do like yellow haha I had to get them in black as there was no stock of the others they should be here today. :)
Cant fit them either got peeps coming round for a bbq & apparently it wouldnt look good if everyone came to see
me & I was like can you pass me my ball joint splitter. 🤣🤣
 
Finally I need to detach knuckle from axle, after I undid lower ball joint nut, I saw a hex on knuckle, do I have to unscrew this, or it is part of the knuckle? See picture. Can someone recommend tools to move out the knuckle and the both ball joints, it seems I don’t need to detach the ball joint on rod track?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3348.jpeg
    IMG_3348.jpeg
    437.7 KB · Views: 69
  • IMG_3349.jpeg
    IMG_3349.jpeg
    339.2 KB · Views: 75
  • IMG_3350.jpeg
    IMG_3350.jpeg
    475.6 KB · Views: 87
I did not use one of these, instead I very carefully ground down the top of the ball joint until it was flush with the axel then I got my stick welder and started to weld small circles on the top of the ball joint, until it was red hot, I let it cool down just hot to touch, then using a punch, knocked it out in less than 2 mins
 
Back
Top