Loud Clunking Noise

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Cassiopia

Member
Posts
12
Location
Norfolk
Hello I recently purchased a Freelander and when I reverse in full lock I am getting a very loud and worrying noise from the rear of my vehicle. It sounds like a loud spring or clunk noise. You can feel it too. Given my vague description, can anyone point me as to where I should be focusing on? Thank you
 
Does it still have it's propshafts fitted? If not then it could be the diff is damaged, likely caused by a bad VCU.

Are all the tyres identical with least worn on the rear? If not then the VCU has probably gone stiff, which has destroyed the IRD or rear diff.

Don't drive it until you're sure of the fault, or there's likely to be a big bang and metal and oil will cover the ground.
 
Does it still have it's propshafts fitted? If not then it could be the diff is damaged, likely caused by a bad VCU.

Are all the tyres identical with least worn on the rear? If not then the VCU has probably gone stiff, which has destroyed the IRD or rear diff.

Don't drive it until you're sure of the fault, or there's likely to be a big bang and metal and oil will cover the ground.


Thank you for taking the time to reply Nodge68, It has had a new VCU fitted recently I'm led to believe and Husband said it has the propshafts. It almost seems like it's coming from the middle of the car towards the rear. Sorry for not being technical with my reply! I can't check the tyres right now to see if they're more worn on the rear but I shall in the morning.
I'm going to get it booked into garage tomorrow, I'm just starting to worry I've spent money on a car that will be very costly to fix!
 
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You should do these 3 tests...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

However, the symptoms could also be a worn mount for the rear diff. This is a common issue, the diff has 3 mounts, 2 at the back and 1 on the front - the front one (specifically) degrades allowing movement of the diff and props to bang against things. Always replace the mount with a quality item - cheap ones can last a matter of weeks sometimes. The VCU going over-tight can hasten the degradation of the mounts - together with other more catastrophic issues!

It could also be the "cracked chassis" issue fairly common on Freelanders. Put "cracked chassis" into the search box and search in the Freelander section for it. Basically the captive nut holding the rear subframe becomes detatched from the chassis allowing movement of the subframe (and everything attached to it) which creates creaks and knocking.
 
You should do these 3 tests...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

However, the symptoms could also be a worn mount for the rear diff. This is a common issue, the diff has 3 mounts, 2 at the back and 1 on the front - the front one (specifically) degrades allowing movement of the diff and props to bang against things. Always replace the mount with a quality item - cheap ones can last a matter of weeks sometimes. The VCU going over-tight can hasten the degradation of the mounts - together with other more catastrophic issues!

It could also be the "cracked chassis" issue fairly common on Freelanders. Put "cracked chassis" into the search box and search in the Freelander section for it. Basically the captive nut holding the rear subframe becomes detatched from the chassis allowing movement of the subframe (and everything attached to it) which creates creaks and knocking.


I've just spoken to a garage and they have advised that we take the car off the road immediately and said that taking the prop shaft off will stop the problem if its VCU or Diff. We don't necessarily need it for 4 wheel drive function and Husband knows how to do it as hes done it before. This is a nightmare, only had the car for 3 weeks, the problem didn't become apparent driving it home and only been driving it for 10 days.
 
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I've just spoken to a garage and they have advised that we take the car off the road immediately and said that taking the prop shaft off will stop the problem if its VCU or Diff. We don't necessarily need it for 4 wheel drive function and Husband knows how to do it as hes done it before. This is a nightmare, only had the car for 3 weeks, the problem didn't become apparent driving it home and only been driving it for 10 days.
What year/engine is the car? I know you said it has a VCU but we are presuming that is correct and it is a F1 rather than an F2.

I would also suggest...

1) Do the 1 Wheel Up Test. This will give you an indication of whether the VCU is serviceable. Also check the tyres are all the same make/model and pumped to the same pressure - if treads are uneven, the ones with the most tread should be on the rear wheels.

2) Take the props & VCU off (as a single piece) and in doing so, check the front diff mount (push the diff up) and see how bad that is. If its bad, replace it. Have a look at the rear ones as well, as they can go. They are easy to replace.

3) Replace the oils in the IRD and diff. If they come out looking like oil, they should be OK - if they come out grey in colour, this is the bearings ground to a pulp and the unit has problems.

4) Drive the car and see if the noise completely disappears.

There's lots of permutations there on what could be wrong, knowing these answers would home the problem down and what needs fixing and whether you want to maintain it as a 4WD.
.
 
What year/engine is the car? I know you said it has a VCU but we are presuming that is correct and it is a F1 rather than an F2.



I would also suggest...

1) Do the 1 Wheel Up Test. This will give you an indication of whether the VCU is serviceable. Also check the tyres are all the same make/model and pumped to the same pressure - if treads are uneven, the ones with the most tread should be on the rear wheels.

2) Take the props & VCU off (as a single piece) and in doing so, check the front diff mount (push the diff up) and see how bad that is. If its bad, replace it. Have a look at the rear ones as well, as they can go. They are easy to replace.

3) Replace the oils in the IRD and diff. If they come out looking like oil, they should be OK - if they come out grey in colour, this is the bearings ground to a pulp and the unit has problems.

4) Drive the car and see if the noise completely disappears.

There's lots of permutations there on what could be wrong, knowing these answers would home the problem down and what needs fixing and whether you want to maintain it as a 4WD.
.


It is indeed a Freelander 1, I thought it was a 2 but it's not. It's 2006 2 litre. Hoping that the issue is in some way related to prop shaft and that taking it off will fix the problem, if it doesn't then will be off to the garage. I'd rather run it as 2wd without the issue than be without a car whilst it's fixed and possibly huge labour and parts bill.

If it still makes a noise, having read all I have the chassis to get looked at next. This is frying my brain, and I've come to realise that what seems like a good buy isn't always the case!
 
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If you run it as 2WD you will need to tell your insurance company as they will/may consider it a modified vehicle and you might not be covered unless you tell them.

You may not want to, but I would recommend you do the above checks even if you have no intention of restoring 4WD. You need to know if there are going to be problems running 2WD - eg if the IRD is worn, its possible that the crown and pinion gears could jam which would destroy it and possibly cause an accident - a blanking plate would address that issue.

The transmission 'went' on my Freelander after I'd owned it for 3 years. So that I was sure it was OK, I rebuilt the IRD with new bearings, but removed the drive from it to the rear pinion - so although afterwards it still carried all the original props etc, it was only 2WD. Its run boringly reliable in the 5 years since then. Its been a great workhorse and tour bus. Some people do not like the way they handle in 2WD though, to me its just like a FWD car. Having learnt (via LZ) why the transmission went, a 4WD Freelander should be just as reliable if maintained properly.
 
If you run it as 2WD you will need to tell your insurance company as they will/may consider it a modified vehicle and you might not be covered unless you tell them.

You may not want to, but I would recommend you do the above checks even if you have no intention of restoring 4WD. You need to know if there are going to be problems running 2WD - eg if the IRD is worn, its possible that the crown and pinion gears could jam which would destroy it and possibly cause an accident - a blanking plate would address that issue.

The transmission 'went' on my Freelander after I'd owned it for 3 years. So that I was sure it was OK, I rebuilt the IRD with new bearings, but removed the drive from it to the rear pinion - so although afterwards it still carried all the original props etc, it was only 2WD. Its run boringly reliable in the 5 years since then. Its been a great workhorse and tour bus. Some people do not like the way they handle in 2WD though, to me its just like a FWD car. Having learnt (via LZ) why the transmission went, a 4WD Freelander should be just as reliable if maintained properly.


Pardon my ignorance but what is an IRD? Thank you for your reply. In an ideal world we'd leave the prop shaft on, but time constraints and being stranded out in the middle of nowhere where we live might mean that for now that's our best solution, and if the noise persists without the prop shaft on then it's a smaller field to narrow the issue down to. I am stumbling round in the dark as this isn't a subject I'm knowledgeable on (in case you hadn't guessed ).
 
Pardon my ignorance but what is an IRD?
It means Intermediate Reduction Drive. It's the component in the 4X4 system that takes the drive from the gearbox, and directs the drive to the wheels.


Unfortunately, yours is a familiar story, which repeats itself over and over again. A Freelander can be reliable in the 4X4 department, but it does need any previous owners to have actually followed the handbook's instructions on tyre maintenance. The only reason for premature 4X4 system failure is due to tyre maintenance incompetence.

This tyre maintenance is crucial, or serious 4X4 system failure will occur.

Now there are several components that can make the noise you described, when they fail. Some are easy and relatively cheap to replace. However some failed components are extremely expensive to replace, which often renders an older or lower spec Freelander as beyond economic repair.

It is often possible to simply remove the propshafts and continue using the vehicle, however if the rear diff has failed, this isn't advisable, as it can seize up, causing the rear wheels lock solid, which is extremely dangerous.

So the who system needs checking, preferably by someone who knows how the Freelander's 4X4 system works, and how to test it correctly.
 
Don't know where in Norfolk you are. These people, sue and Norbert near Brandon, have a good reputation for Freelanders...

https://www.freelanderspecialist.com/

As I say, I like my Freelander as a 2WD, its been a great car - although I miss taking it places I want to go! But tell your insurance company and as Nodge says, I'd check to make sure the bits are safe to use. If you or your husband can do that, great, if not - I'd recommend you get the car to these people for them to check - you can always give them a call to see how much they'd charge you.

If your insurance company says they don't want to insure it 2WD, there are companies that do - including ones that sponser Landyzone.
 
It means Intermediate Reduction Drive. It's the component in the 4X4 system that takes the drive from the gearbox, and directs the drive to the wheels.


Unfortunately, yours is a familiar story, which repeats itself over and over again. A Freelander can be reliable in the 4X4 department, but it does need any previous owners to have actually followed the handbook's instructions on tyre maintenance. The only reason for premature 4X4 system failure is due to tyre maintenance incompetence.

This tyre maintenance is crucial, or serious 4X4 system failure will occur.

Now there are several components that can make the noise you described, when they fail. Some are easy and relatively cheap to replace. However some failed components are extremely expensive to replace, which often renders an older or lower spec Freelander as beyond economic repair.

It is often possible to simply remove the propshafts and continue using the vehicle, however if the rear diff has failed, this isn't advisable, as it can seize up, causing the rear wheels lock solid, which is extremely dangerous.

So the who system needs checking, preferably by someone who knows how the Freelander's 4X4 system works, and how to test it correctly.


Thank you Nodge. This is a nightmare I didn't envision happening after 10 days of driving the bloody thing. Will get the prop shaft off and see if the noise persists and then reevaluate from there tomorrow.
 
Don't know where in Norfolk you are. These people, sue and Norbert near Brandon, have a good reputation for Freelanders...

https://www.freelanderspecialist.com/

As I say, I like my Freelander as a 2WD, its been a great car - although I miss taking it places I want to go! But tell your insurance company and as Nodge says, I'd check to make sure the bits are safe to use. If you or your husband can do that, great, if not - I'd recommend you get the car to these people for them to check - you can always give them a call to see how much they'd charge you.

If your insurance company says they don't want to insure it 2WD, there are companies that do - including ones that sponser Landyzone.


Thank You Grumpy, we are going to get the prop shaft off and then reassess once it's off. I'll be sure to contact the people you recommend if we think there's more going on than we hope. Feeling pretty deflated and hands are tied as unfortunately I don't have deep pockets.
 
UPDATE..

Been to JSF Landrover garage today and turns out was simply a rubber bush on the Diff that had gone, it had been replaced a year ago but was an aftermarket part and it had worn, so genuine part put on and all bolts and bits tightened and we are back on the road!! I had braced myself for a hefty bill and feared there was something seriously wrong with our Landy but was a lovely shock to have a much lower bill than expected, and they lent us a car for the day too and I'm confident and happy with our purchase now. New tyres this week then we're all set for the snow that is forecast! Thanks for all your advice, in the nicest possible way I hope I don't have to ask for advice again!! JSF 4 x 4 is an excellent garage and I'd highly recommend!
 
Glad you sorted it and it was a simple/cheap fix.

Yes, aftermarket diff mounts can go very quickly, as you've found.

However, it can also be a sign that the VCU is overly tight and putting too much stress through the transmission - which can cause more expensive problems.

You should do the 1 Wheel Up test in the link in my first post (#4) - just for peace of mind and possibly saving you a lot of cash/problems.
 
UPDATE..

Been to JSF Landrover garage today and turns out was simply a rubber bush on the Diff that had gone, it had been replaced a year ago but was an aftermarket part and it had worn, so genuine part put on and all bolts and bits tightened and we are back on the road!! I had braced myself for a hefty bill and feared there was something seriously wrong with our Landy but was a lovely shock to have a much lower bill than expected, and they lent us a car for the day too and I'm confident and happy with our purchase now. New tyres this week then we're all set for the snow that is forecast! Thanks for all your advice, in the nicest possible way I hope I don't have to ask for advice again!! JSF 4 x 4 is an excellent garage and I'd highly recommend!
Was it the centre bush?
 
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