Lost me clutch, thoughts? Found the fault with a pic.

Gears, mainly 1st and reverse were getting hard to engage for a while then suddenly got worse, especially reverse one day, then...weirdly...it was OK again on the same day, crunching then..no crunching?
Next day(yesterday) it started crunching again and as I had a bit of excess play at the pedal I adjusted the master pushrod. Great, slipped into all gears lovely (1985 110 LT77 box btw). Later on that day it started crunching again then the pedal went to the floor and stayed there, no clutch at all now. I lifted the pedal back up and it would only go half way down before going rock solid, still no clutch. Got home by cranking it in 2nd gear until it fired, luckily I was only near home on a quiet road.
Nothing amiss visually so removed the master and all that looks good, seal, bore etc, no loss of fluid, then I removed the slave and that looks like new too. I looked into the hole for the slave and put as much pressure by hand as I can on the pushrod and it doesn't appear to have punched through the clutch arm. My next thought was to use a big G clamp to try and compress in the pushrod and see if the clutch disengages, proving a master or slave issue, but I couldn't get the arm to move but sort of expected that as the cover plate needs a leg and hydraulics to move it after all.
I've ordered a new trw master and slave anyway but hoping it isn't a box out job. I can feel the clutch arm moving and coming up against the thrust bearing ok. Clutch fluid was black.

Could be the clutch flexi pipe has delaminated inside, result black fluid and possible blockage. Remove pipe from slave and see if fluid will flow from master.

New master and slave fitted, bled and bled until I've got constant fluid coming through with no air . Pedal goes to the floor with no resistance whatsoever.
Box has got to come out, bugger!

Release bearing worn through clutch fingers ?

Should know late tomorrow if it doesn't pee it down.

Well, it's a good ideda to do the slave and master when you do the clutch anyway, so at least you've got those all ready to go. Sometimes when I've changed clutches, the 'fingers' on the clutch mechanism look very worn, where the release bearing touches them. I've never seen any completely wear throguh but I'm sure they could in some cases.

That will be it then .

J

The clutch fork is an item that went downhill when the coilers arrived, Series 3 had a cast item with a nylon bearing for the post.
So called heavy duty [ extra bit of metal welded on the back of arm] available.
Problem I have had with a replacement is loss of one of the pins for the swivel paddles, clutch kept working but was rather stiff. [ Pin was only held in place by being spread like a rivet] Replacement I put some weld on the pin/arm.
Also check pivot post for the arm has not worn badly, should be nice and round.

Pivot was fine, welded the arm up with an extra thick plate for insurance. Spent what seemed hrs trying to get the box mated back up but got there in the end, bolted that back up, refitted the slave and tried the clutch...no pressure at the pedal until the last 3" of movement, tried bleeding it again but there was no air, backed off the master push rod nut and it improved. Backed the nut off until it was on the last of the threads and it was much better. That's not right though! It 'looks' like , eyeing it up, not scientific, that the master push rod is around 1/4" shorter than the original one which is about how much extra thread I need to enable the nylock adjusting nut to be fully on and engaging the nylon bit. I'll have to remove the new master and swop over push rods to confirm but I'm tired and damp and hungry so that'll be a job for probably Monday now.

By the time they got to the TD5 they went back to a very chunky cast jobbie with replaceable inserts where the centre pivot and the slave cylinder pushrod go. I've had clutch problems but never the clutch fork.