Disco 1 Loose swival bolts

currymunster · May 21, 2020

Hi,
1995 Disco 1 300tdi
Noticed a knocking a very slow speed. checked under neath and oil leaking from swivel housing to axle joint.
puddle on floor.
rocked wheel 12 to 6 and a knocking
checked the bolts with spanner and they where loose. got almost half a turn on two of them and oil squeezed out of the joint.
knocking seems to have stopped.
obviously i need to strip it down but has anyone had similar.
is it just a strip down with new gaskets and thread lock or is there something else causing this???
need car to earn so dont want to strip it down and then have to wait for parts......
Cheers
James

lynall · May 22, 2020

Very unusual failure, I would wind out one bolt at a time as far as you can, apply loctite and tighten it, repeat until all done, then monitor for oil leaks

currymunster · May 22, 2020

lynall said:
Very unusual failure, I would wind out one bolt at a time as far as you can, apply loctite and tighten it, repeat until all done, then monitor for oil leaks

Thanks... Yes, I thought it was a bit strange and unusual?
I will probably strip it and check.
It's just a question of when will I get Time.
Many thanks for your help

Disco1BFG · May 22, 2020

lynall said:
Very unusual failure, I would wind out one bolt at a time as far as you can, apply loctite and tighten it, repeat until all done, then monitor for oil leaks

Wot he said ^^^^^

..... emphasis on the bit in bold

Disco1BFG · May 22, 2020

currymunster said:
is there something else causing this???

This is a stab in the dark, but is a CV / wheel bearing making a bid for freedom ? I.E., is the vibration from this loosening your bolts ?

And/or - is the mass damper still on the axle ? I had one of those fall orft years ago on an RRC .......

currymunster · May 30, 2020

Disco1BFG said:
This is a stab in the dark, but is a CV / wheel bearing making a bid for freedom ? I.E., is the vibration from this loosening your bolts ?

And/or - is the mass damper still on the axle ? I had one of those fall orft years ago on an RRC .......

Spot on my friend!
So I checked it a few days ago and both bearings were loose (very loose).
So I've re-tightened them 2 or 3 the times and they keep coming loose so I decided to buy new bearing kits for them both at the front. Started on the near side which is just the bearing.
All cleaned and grease packed and torqued up.
I did notice though that the land rover workshop manual says 61nm then back 90° then to 4nm and put on the lock tab and lock nut and tighten to 61nm and then bend the lock washer over.
Now the Haynes manual is the same except the last torque when doing the second nut is 100nm and not 61nm
Wtf.
I'm guessing the Haynes is wrong?

Disco1BFG · May 30, 2020

currymunster said:
Spot on my friend!

HTH

currymunster said:
they keep coming loose

Are the threads on the stub axles / bearing carriers OK? - one failed on SWMBO's D1 - was the OSF IIRC - wouldn't hold adjustment

currymunster said:
I did notice though that the land rover workshop manual says 61nm then back 90° then to 4nm and put on the lock tab and lock nut and tighten to 61nm and then bend the lock washer over.

This is essentially what I do, and have been doing for 40 years

- worth having the correct torque wrench for the 4Nm stage too - I know other folk claim they can do it by feel, which is fine for them.... When the lock washer goes on, I mark the position to bend it inwards on it with a pencil, and bend it in a vice, fit it, tighten the lock nut, and then force another part of the washer outwards against the lock nut ....

currymunster said:
Now the Haynes manual is the same except the last torque when doing the second nut is 100nm and not 61nm
Wtf.
I'm guessing the Haynes is wrong?

Haynes manuals have a few typo's in - this is probably one of them - IIRC, the torque figure has been 45 foot pounds* since the year dot...

( * I.E. 61 Nm

)

lynall · May 31, 2020

currymunster said:
Spot on my friend!
So I checked it a few days ago and both bearings were loose (very loose).
So I've re-tightened them 2 or 3 the times and they keep coming loose so I decided to buy new bearing kits for them both at the front. Started on the near side which is just the bearing.
All cleaned and grease packed and torqued up.
I did notice though that the land rover workshop manual says 61nm then back 90° then to 4nm and put on the lock tab and lock nut and tighten to 61nm and then bend the lock washer over.
Now the Haynes manual is the same except the last torque when doing the second nut is 100nm and not 61nm
Wtf.
I'm guessing the Haynes is wrong?

Is the washer still there between the first nut and the wheel bearing?
Ignore its the wrong vehicle, set up will be pretty much the same, item 12.

currymunster · May 31, 2020

Hey.
I didn't think to check the thread on the sub axle.... I could undo them both by hand!
Doing the other side today which needs the gasket on the swivel housing to axle doing. Going to make one out of cereal box and a bit of blue hylomar.
Thanks for all your shouts I will check the thread on the sub axle this side

currymunster · May 31, 2020

lynall said:
Is the washer still there between the first nut and the wheel bearing?
Ignore its the wrong vehicle, set up will be pretty much the same, item 12.
View attachment 210939

Yes, the washer is still there between the bearing and the adjustment nut.

currymunster · May 31, 2020

Disco1BFG said:
HTH

Are the threads on the stub axles / bearing carriers OK? - one failed on SWMBO's D1 - was the OSF IIRC - wouldn't hold adjustment

This is essentially what I do, and have been doing for 40 years - worth having the correct torque wrench for the 4Nm stage too - I know other folk claim they can do it by feel, which is fine for them.... When the lock washer goes on, I mark the position to bend it inwards on it with a pencil, and bend it in a vice, fit it, tighten the lock nut, and then force another part of the washer outwards against the lock nut ....

Haynes manuals have a few typo's in - this is probably one of them - IIRC, the torque figure has been 45 foot pounds* since the year dot...

( * I.E. 61 Nm )

Glad I followed the workshop manual.
I did the 4nm by hand. For the life of me I couldn't find my ¼" to ⅜" converter to use my small torque wrench

currymunster · Sep 9, 2020

I checked my front bearings today and they both have play again.
Am I to assume that both the stub axles need replacing or am in doing it wrong?

jamesmartin · Sep 9, 2020

currymunster said:
I checked my front bearings today and they both have play again.
Am I to assume that both the stub axles need replacing or am in doing it wrong?

unlikely stub axles,how are you setting bearings

currymunster · Sep 9, 2020

jamesmartin said:
unlikely stub axles,how are you setting bearings

Hi James, how are you?
I do
first nut on.
61nm
Back off 90°
5nm
Lock washer on
Lock nut on
61nm
Bend over first nut
Bend over second nut opposite

Should I try 100nm like my Haynes days?

jamesmartin · Sep 9, 2020

currymunster said:
Hi James, how are you?
I do
first nut on.
61nm
Back off 90°
5nm
Lock washer on
Lock nut on
61nm
Bend over first nut
Bend over second nut opposite

Should I try 100nm like my Haynes days?

no thats not a way to judge the preload in the bearings, tighten the first nut till all play is just removed,then fit tab and tighten 2nd nut fully

currymunster · Sep 9, 2020

jamesmartin said:
no thats not a way to judge the preload in the bearings, tighten the first nut till all play is just removed,then fit tab and tighten 2nd nut fully

Okay, I was just following the the workshop manual.
When you say tighten the second nut fully..... What does that mean exactly?

jamesmartin · Sep 9, 2020

currymunster said:
Okay, I was just following the the workshop manual.
When you say tighten the second nut fully..... What does that mean exactly?

its tight,
first nut is adjusted so bearings have no play,2nd nut locks them

currymunster · Sep 9, 2020

jamesmartin said:
its tight,
first nut is adjusted so bearings have no play,2nd nut locks them

How tight? Sorry mate.
When I do this it has no play in when I've finished. Now 4 or five months on these new bearings now have play?

jamesmartin · Sep 9, 2020

currymunster said:
How tight? Sorry mate.
When I do this it has no play in when I've finished. Now 4 or five months on these new bearings now have play?

tight, i dont have any figure to hand,in any case its not vital,like you would using a wheel brace or any other nut without a torque wrench,whats important is adjusting other nut till play is removed

currymunster · Sep 9, 2020

jamesmartin said:
tight, i dont have any figure to hand,in any case its not vital,like you would using a wheel brace or any other nut without a torque wrench,whats important is adjusting other nut till play is removed

Okay. I'll try it that way. It's how I used to do it when I was younger.
I've got the intermediate shaft o rings to do at some point too

Disco 1 Loose swival bolts

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