Looking to do a few jobs on my 90

So after using the 90 for a good 6000 miles already this year I have decided that unlike most cars I have ever owned I want to keep it!
I do not need to tell you lot why but my seven year old loves it and so do I.

With this in mind I need to get some jobs done, some are needed straight away and some are for the future.

The bodywork is really good its in the standard blue with the white roof, although I have toyed with the idea of painting it, its in such good condition that it would be a shame. I also quiet look the farmer look!!

However the Chassis is not in perfect condition, it has a couple of areas of rot, which at best will need a patch or two.
What are my other options?
Galvanised chassis?
Can the old one be saved if its not too bad or is it simply a case of scrap and use new?
Or do I just have it patched and treated?

Im guessing to patch and treat im going to be spending £700 all in so what sort of cost would a galvanised one be?

The oil light has also started flashing once its warm? doesn't appear to be loosing oil and the truck still drives fine but it needs looking at.

Speedo needs changing as it stopped working completely, and I still have a leak of fluid from the rear wheels.

Once that's all done it should be perfect!!!!!!!

I had the same quandary 6 months ago, my 90 needed some patches and a rear crossmember. I decided that instead of spending £500 on fixing the chassis, I would do a proper job and do a rebuild, that way I wouldn't be wondering whether all the mechanical parts would be ok.

My cost so far has been £3000. I expect it to cost about £3500 in total, but that is with a recon transfer box.

Oh, and the wheels shouldn't be filled with fluid, air works better

Thanks James!! I will pop to the local tyre place tell them what they did wrong!!

Wife has given the go ahead so I just need to get myself a temporary car then I can book the 90 in for a full inspection. I do not mind doing some jobs but structural stuff I would prefer to leave to a professional. The guy i normally use really knows his stuff but he takes ages getting work done!! Might need to find another specialist.
Anyone around Brentwood have any reccomendations?

The engine feels fine pulls well and happy to sit at motorway speeds.
Bodywork is perfect so mainly the chassis and rot that needs seeing to.

Oh well haven't got quiet the same budget but I'm thinking if I can get away with around 2000 then I will be happy. By then it will owe me far too much money to think about selling it, but I enjoy the driving and ownership so don't mind having it as a keeper.

Just been having a look on the Internet for chassis replacment found these guys in Nottinghamshire
Chassis Replacements | Customisation from Tonks4x4

To supply and fit a galvanised chassis incl Vat £2600 I know once you start swapping the whole thing you will need to do a few other jobs but even so, £3250/3500 all done on a new chassis, seems like a decent price.
This is the first site I found is this about right? Anyone used them before?

If the oil light is coming on when the engine is warm, it generally means the engine is worn,
because as the oil warms up it thins, on a worn engine this reduces compression, as the oil passes the pistons,
I think you may need to factor in an engine re build

Could just need an oil change, std interval is 6k, 15/40 mineral no fancy syn ****e
Oil pressure switches are cheap
Maybe worth looking at first because as John has pointed this could be another huge chunk of money

Thanks for that I will get that checked out first then.

Im not sure if pressbrake is still trading as he was talking about shutting down, but he may be able to give you a proper idea of the state of your chassis, Iirc hes in Billericay.

lynall said:

Im not sure if pressbrake is still trading as he was talking about shutting down, but he may be able to give you a proper idea of the state of your chassis, Iirc hes in Billericay.

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Clive is only manufacturing at the moment, think he said his new workshop didn't allow him to work on vehicles.

Have you asked him if he knows anyone that can do the work?

If you go for the chassis change don't get carried away like I've done. Spent nearly £4000, and the body isn't even on yet!!! Although that is the result of being picky and wanting everything to be spot on

I am in two minds at the moment Albert. Been looking around at 90's for sale with new chassis etc.. And thinking the difference between what mine is worth as it is and a completed one. Looks less than the cost of doing mine.
If I spend all the money on mine it will still not be my perfect 90, I would prefer windows and seats in the back (mine is a van) so that's more money, I would prefer to have a nice colour all over including the roof (currently blue with white)
I guess the best thing is to take it to a specialist and see what the damage is, chassis may not be as bad as I think and some patchs could do the job.

Tonym3 said:

I am in two minds at the moment Albert. Been looking around at 90's for sale with new chassis etc.. And thinking the difference between what mine is worth as it is and a completed one. Looks less than the cost of doing mine.
If I spend all the money on mine it will still not be my perfect 90, I would prefer windows and seats in the back (mine is a van) so that's more money, I would prefer to have a nice colour all over including the roof (currently blue with white)
I guess the best thing is to take it to a specialist and see what the damage is, chassis may not be as bad as I think and some patchs could do the job.

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That is fair arguing, but it doesn't all have to be done at once. That is what I keep telling myself. Like Albert I have also got a bit carried away!

I could have got my chassis patched and a new rear crossmember, but my reasoning was that that would probably cost me £400 to get it done, and then next year I would probably need to get it patched again. Plus I intend to do some expeditioning in it in the next few years and the best way to be sure that everything is ok, plus get some valuable knowledge about how it all works, is to do a rebuild.

flickeriung oil light could be:

worn engine
worn oil pump
wrong grade of oil

start by doing an oil change and see what it does.

flat said:

flickeriung oil light could be:

worn engine
worn oil pump
wrong grade of oil

start by doing an oil change and see what it does.

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With my broken speedo it's hard to say how many miles since its last oil change but it was end of last year so it's probably done 4000ish the leak from the rear diff/hub is off putting with regards to the light as you can smell the hot oil from the leak at the same time as you see the light flickering. I assume the diff does not have a level sensor?

I will try a service first it's running fine and pulls really well so Im hopeing it's not a worn engine but I'm also not sure how many miles this engine has done!!
Bloody speedo it's been off and on during my ownership but going by its MOT history it was replaced about 4 years ago after the original got stolen and it had not worked for close to 4 years until I got it!!

What oil is best to use for the change? I'm guessing the thicker the better?

Tonym3 said:

What oil is best to use for the change? I'm guessing the thicker the better?

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Oil for what?

Engine oil is 10w40 semi-synthetic

Diff is EP80w-90

Thanks James it was the engine oil I was after, I have a few bottles of Diff oil from my when I changed it.
Just removed the speedo cable and speedo to try and work out the issue. It had been pulled from the dash end and so was not attached at the gear box end.

I have ordered a new cable I am considering a new speedo as well as the one currently fitted des not show the correct mileage anyway.
Anything else that's worth me replacing whilst this is all off? any other weak links?