Freelander 1 Limp mode

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Hello and thanks again for the link.New pipe is in .Problem is still there , no power on hills. I thought I would take the liberty of sending my data output from a friends FOXELL NT301 .Its not a Hawkeye, but its the best I could lay my hands on for now . Also, the MAF reading is in g/s and NOT mg/s. Please have a look at my data and see if you can spot any irregularities.
 

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methinks more info is needed ..
e.g. did not spot fuel pressure data in the .pdf
[ might have missed it due to the length
[ i more or less did a quik scan thru

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have you got the pierburg lp.fuel pump yet ????
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ideally the following data would be useful :
pressure from the lp.fuel pump
high pressure in the fuel rail
voltage on the rail fuel sensor
voltage data from the hp.fuel regulator

any idea what this is referring to ?
"re(kPa)102.0"
it's repeated a few times
it's a pressure measurement .. but which ?

as for turbo boost .. or m.a.p.
that will also be related to the amount of fuel injected
i.e. not much fuel = not much exhaust gas to drive the turbo

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You need to get a diagnostic reader that you can understand.
The low pressure fuel pump needs to supply over 300, preferably over 350kpa.
The high pressure fuel rail should be around 25,000kpa at idle.
Boost pressure (MAP) should be around 100kpa at idle.
 
Hello, all, so yes, new pierburg LP pump. No difference .Then ,I unplugged the LP fuel sensor (see pic ) .Landy takes off , revs go past 3000 rpm, all the way up to 7/8000 rpm ,she flies for 100 m , then engine cuts out. Can you please confirm the picture is in fat the LP fuel sensor and if so ,where is the best place to buy or can you send me the part numner so I can google. Thanks in advance. It was a great feeling to have her FULL POWER back , even although it was for a short while. Im so relieved its not the Turbo veins that are stuck open or am I being too presumptous as yet ?
 
all the way up to 7/8000 rpm
something's very wrong there

op.. are you sure it's a td4 diesel ?
afaik the m47/td4 redlines at 4800rpm
personaly i keep mine under 3000 [ has larger than stock tyres 2700=70mph ]

reving a diesel up to 7/8000 rpm be asking for big trouble sooner or later

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just my opinion .. feel free to differ. ;-]
 
To clean the manifold out use oven cleaner, let it soak for at least 2.5 hours, then jet wash it out, remember to removed the egr, & MAP sensor before cleaning, let it dry out which takes at least an hour unless you have an air line then you can blow it out dry,
AKju2Zpl.jpg
0

MT5YY3Yl.jpg
1

you can see from this photo before and after clean.
4hbWrKWl.jpg
2

uIjpRK8l.jpg
3

EGR.
ls8tSp4l.jpg
4

8berF6tl.jpg
5

You can gut the EGR which then makes it a by pass EGR.
olbxu6jl.jpg
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You can also purchase a by pass EGR.
qvtIvtVl.jpg
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rhXa2uil.jpg
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Also check the wiring to the MAP plug is ok, and the wiring to the turbo boost plug is ok, no breaks or chaffing.
FYQIFr6l.jpg
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xMNGpDql.jpg
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To clean the manifold out use oven cleaner, let it soak for at least 2.5 hours, then jet wash it out, remember to removed the egr, & MAP sensor before cleaning, let it dry out which takes at least an hour unless you have an air line then you can blow it out dry,
AKju2Zpl.jpg
0

MT5YY3Yl.jpg
1

you can see from this photo before and after clean.
4hbWrKWl.jpg
2

uIjpRK8l.jpg
3

EGR.
ls8tSp4l.jpg
4

8berF6tl.jpg
5

You can gut the EGR which then makes it a by pass EGR.
olbxu6jl.jpg
6

You can also purchase a by pass EGR.
qvtIvtVl.jpg
7

rhXa2uil.jpg
8

Also check the wiring to the MAP plug is ok, and the wiring to the turbo boost plug is ok, no breaks or chaffing.
FYQIFr6l.jpg
9

xMNGpDql.jpg
10
Artic 2 picture 10 the plug by the dip stick is this the turbo air sensor/ what happens if the wire is broken?would that lead to bad hill climbing ? Thanks in advance GerryN
 
If there's no signal from the charged air temperature sensor, then the ECM just assumes the air going in as warm. Most engines don't even notice any difference if this sensor isn't connected, and it wasn't even fitted to the early TD4s.
 
If there's no signal from the charged air temperature sensor, then the ECM just assumes the air going in as warm. Most engines don't even notice any difference if this sensor isn't connected, and it wasn't even fitted to the early TD4s.
Thanks for that info, I may not bother reconnecting it
 
If there's no signal from the charged air temperature sensor, then the ECM just assumes the air going in as warm. Most engines don't even notice any difference if this sensor isn't connected, and it wasn't even fitted to the early TD4s.
Do the freelander1 have a limp mode as such ?
 
Do the freelander1 have a limp mode as such ?
No. The Freelander 1 TD4 ECM doesn't technically have a true limp mode. What happens when a fault occurs, it simply puts the light on and continues to run the engine to the best it can, with the information it's getting from the sensors it can get data from.
 
No. The Freelander 1 TD4 ECM doesn't technically have a true limp mode. What happens when a fault occurs, it simply puts the light on and continues to run the engine to the best it can, with the information it's getting from the sensors it can get data from.
Thanks for the update much appreciate it
 
No. The Freelander 1 TD4 ECM doesn't technically have a true limp mode. What happens when a fault occurs, it simply puts the light on and continues to run the engine to the best it can, with the information it's getting from the sensors it can get data from.
Would you know where the relay is for rear foglights and are the front lights below bumper driving lights or foglights The reason i asked about front lights is The front fog light switch does not operste properly it pushs in but does not click
 
Would you know where the relay is for rear foglights and are the front lights below bumper driving lights or foglights The reason i asked about front lights is The front fog light switch does not operste properly it pushs in but does not click
The relays for all lights are either part of the CCU, or on the internal fuse box.

The lower lights on the front bumper are fog lights, so don't shine far down the road. The switch is a momentary switch, pressing it should activate a relay that locks in the on position, until the switch is pressed again. Fog light switches aren't allowed to lock on, as the lights must not come back on automatically after the vehicle ignition has been turned off. This is to eliminate those circumstances where drivers simply leave the fog lights (front ot rear) on all the time.
Hope that helps.
 
The relays for all lights are either part of the CCU, or on the internal fuse box.

The lower lights on the front bumper are fog lights, so don't shine far down the road. The switch is a momentary switch, pressing it should activate a relay that locks in the on position, until the switch is pressed again. Fog light switches aren't allowed to lock on, as the lights must not come back on automatically after the vehicle ignition has been turned off. This is to eliminate those circumstances where drivers simply leave the fog lights (front ot rear) on all the time.
Hope that helps.
Thanks again I think I have traced it to a switch fault, 1 fog light switch when pressed clicks on the other does not click at all just pushs in and out and the rear fog has been wired into the main lights of the car so switch on side lights the rear fog comes on as well
 
Thanks again I think I have traced it to a switch fault, 1 fog light switch when pressed clicks on the other does not click at all just pushs in and out and the rear fog has been wired into the main lights of the car so switch on side lights the rear fog comes on as well
The rear fogs must not come on with side lights. It's an MOT fail and potentially 3 points and a fine too, or would be if the police decided to pull you over for it.
 
The rear fogs must not come on with side lights. It's an MOT fail and potentially 3 points and a fine too, or would be if the police decided to pull you over for it.
That is why I have ordered a switch then trace where he has wired in the foglight hopefully somewhere at the back.
 
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