Light wiring

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another forum said:
Is 14swg wire a bit OTT for making a separate harness for headlights with spotlights
Click to expand...

Sorry but what do you mean?
You're just going to add some spotlights to the headlamp wiring? Not a good idea.
You're going to use the headlight wiring to trigger a relay for some spotlights? Better idea.
What weight of wire will you need for the spotlights? What power are the spotlights?
 
Surely you'd be best off using the main beam to trigger the spots relay and keep the main beam circuit as it is? No harm in using a slightly oversized relay to give some safety margin but ffs you're not switching the Blackpool illuminations (are you?!).
 
It is a bit overkill.my intention was to not use the standard wiring.basically make up a separate loom for low/high beam using separate relays for each circuit with the intention of wiring the 2 bumper spots and 4 55w roof lights on high beam with a switch inline to disable the roof lights if needed hence 70 amp also it gives me the option for higher wattage bulbs.the mess what I took off the car was unbelievable and since I have owned it,i have been sorting out bodges.having done nothing like this before I thought I'd better consult more knowledgable folk
 
do a search. your reinventing the wheel wire ya spots etc in pairs thru switched relays fed direct from battery. with the switched live coming from the high beam feed. Make sure they can be switched off independent of the highbeam headlamps.
 
So if you used 6x100w lamps assuming you uprate them all (600w) at a nominal 12v (usually around 14v but we'll stick with this figure) we're pulling 50 amps alone on spots! Drop that to 60w per lamp and you're looking at 360w, which gives a more reasonable 30 amps current draw. That'd still be pretty chunky wiring required but I'd always rather over-spec than under-spec. Use a 50amp relay and you're pretty safe. LED's are the way forward IMO, less current draw and more efficient, which means less demand for equivalent lighting which can only be a good thing and the technology is getting better and cheaper as it becomes more established.
 
redhand said:
do a search. your reinventing the wheel wire ya spots etc in pairs thru switched relays fed direct from battery. with the switched live coming from the high beam feed. Make sure they can be switched off independent of the highbeam headlamps.
Click to expand...

Far better than my idea! Damn my slow posting (and brain)
 
martyc said:
So if you used 6x100w lamps assuming you uprate them all (600w) at a nominal 12v (usually around 14v but we'll stick with this figure) we're pulling 50 amps alone on spots! Drop that to 60w per lamp and you're looking at 360w, which gives a more reasonable 30 amps current draw. That'd still be pretty chunky wiring required but I'd always rather over-spec than under-spec. Use a 50amp relay and you're pretty safe. LED's are the way forward IMO, less current draw and more efficient, which means less demand for equivalent lighting which can only be a good thing and the technology is getting better and cheaper as it becomes more established.
Click to expand...


Only a complete and utter fookwit wires everything thru a single relay. Always wire it one pair of lamps to a single 30amp relay if ya wanna be safe. 200Watts per pair = 16.5amps so fused with a 20amp fuse.

Anything else is just ****e wiring
 
martin1512 said:
6x100w spots + 2x55w full beam headlights? Thats 710 watts of lighting! What are you trying to do? Light up a fecking runway?? :eek::eek:
Click to expand...

Well he said 55w with the option of upgrading... So I guessed this would be a good figure to use as 100w lamps used to be quite a common upgrade and easy to get hold of (dunno if they still are, not bothered looking)
 
Apparently the bonnet pods font fit on well and tbh my discos more of a city 4x4 than a mud plugger, so dont want to ruin the look by sticking on a fugly odd coloured plastic part
 
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