Disco 2 Lift with ACE HELP :(

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George Tomlinson

New Member
Posts
8
Location
Matlock
Evening Guys
I have a 2000 D2 td5 with ace. I would like to lift 2" but my ace is faulty.Aa friend told me that if I fit HD lift springs I could just remove the anti roll bars completely and remove the pump. But then I have been told that HD springs will ruin the ride on and off road. So do I repair the ACE or remove it and then if so do I remove or replace anti roll bars? HELP PLEASE :(:(:(
 
I think you might be falling into the usual ACE/suspension trap. The ACE is the Active Cornering Enhancement and it actively controls the roll of the vehicle when cornering. It has little or nothing to do do with the height of the suspension.
The ACE system can be removed and the anti-roll bar rams replaced with static anti-roll bars; there are kits available from a number of suppliers. Personally I wouldn't advise running without anti-roll bars, the vehicle is likely to sway much more than the manufacturer intended. Since mine doesn't have ACE, I can't make a recommendation either way.
The next couple of questions which have to be addressed would be what suspension system do you have already and exactly why do you feel you need a 2 inch lift?
Once the forum knows more, maybe you'll be able to get some useful replies.
Check out this thread for a load of information about lifting a Disco by one of our off-road experts, @300bhp/ton :-
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/lifting-a-d2-properly.300573/
 
All i can say is that the higher the gravitational center of the vehicle is the more effect the ACE has while cornering with higher speeds and that the man who told you about it's fultility caused by HD springs has no clue about what's what, i'm a fan of the ACE system but i sustain what @brian47 said about the anti roll bars so you decide but a ACE conversion kit is far more expensive these days than fixing the system regardless of what's wrong with it
 
Thanks for replies guys, I should have put a little more info in the original post. So my car is 2000. has coils all round and obviously ACE. which is faulty but I don't know what the fault is ( wiring noise and the light is on the dash) I want to lift 2" so I can fit 265/75/16 MT's to it. partially for aesthetics and partially for practicality when laning and general off roading. So you guys think I should repair the ACE and just lift 2"? By the way I want to spend the money and do it properly, i.e. springs, extended shocks, extended brake lines ect, I don't just want to use spacers. Am I right in thinking that the ACE will be trying to fight back when I am articulating off road?
 
George Tomlinson said:
Am I right in thinking that the ACE will be trying to fight back when I am articulating off road?
Click to expand...
No, on the contrary, the ACE setup permits more articulation cos it "opens" ...though with such huge tyres the engine will be under real stress and the ABS system completely mixed up

i'll accept a debate about the effect of big tyres only with those who have EGT gauge fitted
 
It's not about turning off but it doesnt kick in at very low speeds regardless of the transfer box range, it has nothing to do with it
Off-road driving
Off-road detection is achieved by the ECU by monitoring the signals from the upper and lower accelerometers for
varying degrees of body movement. Off-road driving generates differing signals to the accelerometers which in turn
produce differing outputs due to their vertical separation and the location of the roll centre of the vehicle. The two
signals are passed through a filter to remove any offset caused by the vehicle leaning or the terrain. The ECU then
uses this signal to calculate the percentage of road roughness.
Below 25 mph (40 km/h) the percentage of road roughness calculated is used by the ECU to limit the operation of the
ACE system. The system is completely inoperative at speeds below 2 mph (3 km/h). At speeds above 25 mph (40
km/h) the system disables the percentage road roughness signal and full ACE system assistance is restored.
Side slope detection
The ECU uses side slope detection when the upper and lower accelerometers detect an average acceleration of more
than ± 0.2 g and a road speed of less than 25 mph (40 km/h).
When side slope is detected both DCV's close to provide a 'locked bars' condition. This condition increases stability
and gives a consistent vehicle response. As the road speed increases up to 25 mph (40 km/h), the level of average
lateral acceleration must also increase and be maintained for the system to recognise that the vehicle is on a side
slope. If the side slope angle is steep and the road speed is low, the ECU will detect the side slope in a short time.
 
thank you very much thats the first bit of decent information I've received it since I've owned the car haha. So can you lift 2" and leave the ACE as it is. Any ideas what could be wrong with the ACE?
 
For the ACE you have to read the fault code... it will help much on road when cornering with the lifted vehicle ...
...though with such huge tyres the engine will be under real stress and the ABS system completely mixed up

i'll accept a debate about the effect of big tyres only with those who have EGT gauge fitted
 
EGT = exhaust gas temperature... on mine it rose with 100*C under load when i replaced the std dimension tyres with 255/70/16 and a friend of mine who took my advice and fitted one cos he had 265/70/16 tyres said that the next ones will be smaller cos he saw 850*C quite often uphill... theTd5's engine management and ABS system is ''calibrated" for std tyres and with those the EGT levels are within decent limits... up to 650 under heavy load... i've said it not once high EGT kills like rust, slowly but certainly
 
sierrafery said:
EGT = exhaust gas temperature... on mine it rose with 100*C under load when i replaced the std dimension tyres with 255/70/16 and a friend of mine who took my advice and fitted one cos he had 265/70/16 tyres said that the next ones will be smaller cos he saw 850*C quite often uphill... theTd5's engine management and ABS system is ''calibrated" for std tyres and with those the EGT levels are within decent limits... up to 650 under heavy load... i've said it not once high EGT kills like rust, slowly but certainly
Click to expand...

Fair enough. so how can you get around this problem? Mapping the td5, so more power or altering the gearing? I was told again by someone that 32"s wouldn't mean changing the gearing?
 
I know nothing about altering gearings cos it's too mechanical for me but i'm sure that any modification there would mix up the management as well ... maybe a remap dedicated for such tyres even though IMO a remap is not enough, larger intercooler, radiator and HD transmission parts are also required to be on the safe side... such tyres are mostly used by those who are tuning Td5s for off road competitions not family vehicles and dont care much about the engine's or gearbox's longevity.... for a family vehicle the best is to get tyres as close to std as possible, a D2 is very capable for soft off road even with std tyres believe me
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
I know nothing about altering gearings cos it's too mechanical for me but i'm sure that any modification there would mix up the management as well ... maybe a remap dedicated for such tyres even though IMO a remap is not enough, larger intercooler, radiator and HD transmission parts are also required to be on the safe side... such tyres are mostly used by those who are tuning Td5s for off road competitions not family vehicles and dont care much about the engine's or gearbox's longevity.
Click to expand...
okay thanks, ill look into getting it mapped up then and get some prices of intercooler ect. thanks again for the help buddy :):)
 
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