So i just bought some of the LED bulbs for the side lights and the reverse and braking lights. Installed them and they really make the car look a lot more up to date but i get bulb failure messages on the dash for every buld but they are working! Whats happening?
LED bulbs!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter chrispiec
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Too high an impedance!
nathan5346
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yep stick the old bulbs in 
nathan5346
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be patient someone may come along with a fix?
me
a wire wound resistor in parallel will drop the resistance down and cause more current flow.
to do this would of course require you to mount the resistors on a heat sink and alter wiring.
either that or it may be possible to deactivate bulb failure message in bcem settings
a wire wound resistor in parallel will drop the resistance down and cause more current flow.
to do this would of course require you to mount the resistors on a heat sink and alter wiring.
either that or it may be possible to deactivate bulb failure message in bcem settings
Last edited:
lerk
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What you need is a resistor my friend!
The 'normal' issue with LEDs is when you fit them to an old-fashioned thermal indicator relay, the relay sees the LED as a blown lamp and flashes fast. By connecting a resistor across the circuit, you can regain the correct flash rate. I would assume the same 'fix' would work to stop the error appearing too.
IIRC the more expensive LED clusters (built into standard bayonet lamp) come fitted with this resistor to automatically correct this.
The 'normal' issue with LEDs is when you fit them to an old-fashioned thermal indicator relay, the relay sees the LED as a blown lamp and flashes fast. By connecting a resistor across the circuit, you can regain the correct flash rate. I would assume the same 'fix' would work to stop the error appearing too.
IIRC the more expensive LED clusters (built into standard bayonet lamp) come fitted with this resistor to automatically correct this.
mounted on a aluminum heat sink http://www.1728.com/resistrs.htm
remember that the total resistance will be lower than the lowest resistor
You would also need to make sure the wattage rating is correct or they will burn out
remember that the total resistance will be lower than the lowest resistor
You would also need to make sure the wattage rating is correct or they will burn out
Bulb failure - Diode sidelights [Archive] - MG-Rover.org Forums same discussion
lerk
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From an expensive LED shop! don't take it as gospel mate, but i'm sure i've seen it written on a product description somewhere...
You have options when it comes to adding your own resistors, you can either add one per lamp locally - Or (much neater option) you can add a resistor bank, somewhere out of the way, neatly that allows better heat dissipation and just connect 1 per circuit.
If you go for the second option you'll need bigger resistors, but overall the job's a lot better!
My bike has LED indicators front and rear, so I set up two resistors mounted on a plate to the frame with good airflow on the subframe. So long as the total circuit impedance is the same as with filament lamps it will be fine.
If you have higher physics you should know ohms law then!
You have options when it comes to adding your own resistors, you can either add one per lamp locally - Or (much neater option) you can add a resistor bank, somewhere out of the way, neatly that allows better heat dissipation and just connect 1 per circuit.
If you go for the second option you'll need bigger resistors, but overall the job's a lot better!
My bike has LED indicators front and rear, so I set up two resistors mounted on a plate to the frame with good airflow on the subframe. So long as the total circuit impedance is the same as with filament lamps it will be fine.
If you have higher physics you should know ohms law then!
I'll try get a picture up but i repacked all the bulbs to return. I cant do all this resistor type stuff so unless there is something else i can do they're getting returned. But it's such a shame coz they looked really good. Made the rear of the car look more up to date.
kooky_guy
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There was a mention of this subject in one of the LR mags this month. They have to be correctly E marked (or whatever it was) or they will be illegal and will presumably fail an MOT. Apparently every different application has it's own E mark (ie headlight, brakelight, rear light, number plate light etc) and they're not interchangeable as they are only certified for that specific application.
Load of nonsense, if you ask me, but no-one did.
Guy
Load of nonsense, if you ask me, but no-one did.
Guy
Cossie David
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Now i might make myself look a complete idiot,(nothing new there) could the new bulbs receve their power from a rely , the relay being switched by the vehicle's side light circuit or would that make no difference, its just that i put some extra running lights on my Volvo truck and got the "bulb fused" warning on the dash and wiring in a relay all was well.
its just that i put some extra running lights on my Volvo truck and got the "bulb fused" warning on the dash and wiring in a relay all was well.
Datatek
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Now i might make myself look a complete idiot,(nothing new there) could the new bulbs receve their power from a rely , the relay being switched by the vehicle's side light circuit or would that make no difference,
Useing a relay would make no difference as the current draw of a relay coil is still much less than a normal bulb.
Instead of resistances, you can use a bulb in parallel with the LED and hide the bulb away behind the lamp unit. I have a such an arrangement on my Trannie.
