Leaking oil front passenger wheel
- Thread starter cbean
- Start date
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- Posts
- 45,046
- Location
- East Dorset
If you aren't getting the three amigos the chances are the hub is OK.
So if it was me I'd just replace the seal.
- Posts
- 45,046
- Location
- East Dorset
Recently removed and replaced both front hubs, discs and shafts. Not too tricky. But I was going beyond the seals to the big ball joints, didn't change the seals as they were OK and I was doing something else. So they are still "in stock". .Nor real difficulty, fiddliest thing was getting the sensor wires out and back in again. DON'T take them off the hubs./sensors. Disconnect them in the engine compartment and go from there.
- Posts
- 2,061
- Location
- Hertfordshire
ned a long hollow drift
Hi, Yeah defo driveshaft oil seal try to use the genuine or the NAK seals as sierrafery says some of the cheaper seals are sized incorrectly & just leak again. I did mine a couple of months back. As Stanleysteamer says disconnect the abs sensor wire from the eng. bay & feed the wire through the hub. There's no need to undo the big driveshaft nut (unless you want to do it that way but it means you need a long hollow seal driver to fit the seal & a large torque wrench to do it back up) as you can pull the whole drive shaft out with the hub once the hub is unbolted from the hub carrier. If you search on here for driveshaft oil seal replacement there is more advice available. All the best.
- Posts
- 45,046
- Location
- East Dorset
Thanks for pointing out to keep the shaft on the hub, came back on here to do just that, but you beat me to it!
OP can also search for threads on replacing the big ball joints as you have to go through all this to get to that point.
(I was changing the boots when I did it.)
Best of luck OP anyway!
- Posts
- 2,061
- Location
- Hertfordshire
Same happened to me, remove the sensor from the hub, clean any corrosion away & refit it, making sure he o-ring is seated ok & the sensor goes in dead square. If you still have issues probably best to get it plugged in to a reader to establish where the error is.
- Posts
- 2,061
- Location
- Hertfordshire
I personally bought a Foxwell NT530 (with Jag/LR software), I'm not pretending to be the most tech savvy person but it has served me for everything so far on my Freelander 1 & D2 TD5 at what seems well under 1/2 the price of the nanocom & there are other readers I believe that are cheaper still, that will do most of the basic stuff so it's a bit down to what you need/can afford/justify, hope this helps.
- Posts
- 45,046
- Location
- East Dorset
Agree re the Foxwell seems to be the best all rounder, especially if you doen't want to pay to unlock for every single other ffing Jag / Landy vehicle. Mine is a 520 but still works brill.
Best of luck with the sensor.
Haven't read the thread to see why you didn't leave it attached to the hub and remove the hub together with the half shaft.
Will go back up to see, now.
- Posts
- 45,046
- Location
- East Dorset
Still none the wiser.
You may just need to check the connection under the bonnet.
Check to see there is no damage to any of the wires.
I personally would do ALL of this before contemplating removing and replacing the sensor. The airgap between it and the reluctor ring is so important and has to be so precise.
You may just need to check the connection under the bonnet.
Check to see there is no damage to any of the wires.
I personally would do ALL of this before contemplating removing and replacing the sensor. The airgap between it and the reluctor ring is so important and has to be so precise.
- Posts
- 2,061
- Location
- Hertfordshire
I agree, when I did the n/s hub seal I left the sensor in & didn't have a problem I then had to replace a wheel stud on the o/s which required the sensor to be removed to fit it & the first thing it did was throw the three amigos on! So I removed the sensor again cleaned the o-ring seat in the hub & double checked it seated OK before refitting the sensor & luckily it cured the amigos.
- Posts
- 45,046
- Location
- East Dorset
