Leaking clutch 200Tdi

frog hopper · Jan 27, 2019

Hi guys, I just want someone to confirm my thoughts on a clutch problem on my 90.
Got in to drive last week and nearly stalled on pulling away, clutch bite point very low on the pedal, and more like an On-Off switch. Checked fluid and it was low so topped up, no difference. No difference after pumping pedal either.
Had a look today as was expecting a leak somewhere, nothing round the slave or pipes that I could see.
OK, I thought I'd try bleeding the system, but while I was under vehicle I removed the drain plug on the bell housing (normal thing to do as and when I remember) some clear/clean liquid came out, about a teaspoon so not much. At first I thought it might have been water but noticed it was slippery, Ah Ha, clutch fluid thinks I.

Is that a reasonable assumption? I'm guessing the seals have gone on the slave?

Now looking to change the slave and while I'm at it I might as well change the master and the flexy at the same time.

doriz · Jan 27, 2019

Have a go at re bleeding the system as this will at least get you going for 24 hours at a time. If the slave seals have contracted in the cold they allow the fluid to leak out and the bell housing is the clue, happened to me and on replacement the old unit was corroded. Simple and cheap job to swop out.

frog hopper · Jan 27, 2019

doriz said:
Have a go at re bleeding the system as this will at least get you going for 24 hours at a time. If the slave seals have contracted in the cold they allow the fluid to leak out and the bell housing is the clue, happened to me and on replacement the old unit was corroded. Simple and cheap job to swop out.

Thanks for the reply. fortunately the 90 is "My heap of junk" - I can use my Rangie (the doris thinks it's hers - Ha) so no need to use it for a while.
Yes it was a cold morning when it first happened, so on balance it looks like replacements are in order.

lynall · Jan 28, 2019

Change the master and the slave together as the fluid will be black.

Hicap phill · Jan 28, 2019

Has the push rod in the master moved/come undone a bit?

Remove inspection plate & check nut position on rod

Edit...
Just re read your post & you have found fluid.
Change both master/slave
& check/replace flexi pipe

payydg · Jan 28, 2019

As people have said just change master and slave. Easy job. And you’ll be up and running in no time

frog hopper · Jan 28, 2019

Slave and master ordered as well as new flexy.
Biggest problem I can see will be shifting the eggsause downpipe to get to it all.

Thanks for all the advice.

mick 1986 · Jan 29, 2019

frog hopper said:
Slave and master ordered as well as new flexy.
Biggest problem I can see will be shifting the eggsause downpipe to get to it all.

Thanks for all the advice.

When I replaced the slave on mine, I didn’t need to remove anything. Mine is a Defender 110, so don’t know how similar they are?

lynall · Jan 29, 2019

Did my 90 slave on the floor in the night, just remember to fit the bleed nipple at the top, not that I would do anyhting so silly as fitting it with the nipple at the bottom you understand!

frog hopper · Jan 29, 2019

The ironic thing about that is that it would be sooooooooo much easier to bleed the fecker if the bleed nipple was at the bottom, just from an access point of view.

Flossie · Jan 29, 2019

Crack the bleed nipple before you fit the slave, my new one was unbelievably tight out the box and I would have struggled to slacken it in situ.

frog hopper · Jan 30, 2019

Flossie said:
Crack the bleed nipple before you fit the slave, my new one was unbelievably tight out the box and I would have struggled to slacken it in situ.

Yeah, point taken thanks, also (on another thread somewhere) it was mentioned to give the nipple a telling off with some anti-seize before fitting. Well it was brake nipples actually but I think it's a good shout for anything like that.

Leaking clutch 200Tdi

frog hopper

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doriz

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frog hopper

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lynall

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Hicap phill

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payydg

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frog hopper

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mick 1986

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lynall

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frog hopper

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Flossie

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frog hopper

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