Lazy indicator switch

All,

When I bought my 110 CSW, the indicator switch was not holding its position
when indicating to the right (jumping out on its own, and always when
turning the steering wheel to the right (not just on the way back)). I
fiddled with it to try to see if there was anything wrong and now it does
hold its position, but still jumps out when turning the wheel to the right.
And it does the same for the left, but overall, it's better!

Anybody having a similar experience? Is there anything else to do than
changing it for a new one?

Cheers,

Fred

On or around Tue, 22 Mar 2005 13:52:37 +0000, Fred Labrosse <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>All,
>
>When I bought my 110 CSW, the indicator switch was not holding its position
>when indicating to the right (jumping out on its own, and always when
>turning the steering wheel to the right (not just on the way back)). I
>fiddled with it to try to see if there was anything wrong and now it does
>hold its position, but still jumps out when turning the wheel to the right.
>And it does the same for the left, but overall, it's better!
>
>Anybody having a similar experience? Is there anything else to do than
>changing it for a new one?

they're a bastard to fix, bite the bullet and get a new 'un, is my advice.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
In Touch: Get in touch with yourself by touching yourself.
If somebody is watching, stop touching yourself.
from the Little Book of Complete B***ocks by Alistair Beaton.

> Anybody having a similar experience? Is there anything else to do than
> changing it for a new one?


Check first that the rubber boot is pushed right back up to the top of the
stalk. The extra pressure of the rubber can spring a tired switch out of
position.

Next make sure there's no crud on the blue collar that rotates with the
steering wheel. Also make sure that the 2 arms on the steering wheel engage
properly with the collar.

If this doesn't fix it then its time to fettle the switch.
Watch for things flying everwhere when you take the cover plate off the
switch.
If I remember correctly, there are 3 sprung items; the contact roller for
the actual switch, and 2 ball bearings on ramps that do all the holding-the
stalk-in-position stuff.
You can try cleaning and regreasing the whole thing,
giving the relevant springs a bit of a stretch, and recutting the ramp that
the ball bearings run on, if they're worn.

I did all of this and still had problems so I just removed the blue collar
so that you've no cancelling at all. At least it stays in position that
way. Doesn't take long to get used to cancelling manually.

Oh, and don't hit yourself in the head with the steering wheel when removing
it

HTH
Gromit.

Well mine never does what it is supposed to it cancels before its time and
then stays on when it ought to self cancel.

--
Larry
Series 3 rust and holes



"Fred Labrosse" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> All,
>
> When I bought my 110 CSW, the indicator switch was not holding its
position
> when indicating to the right (jumping out on its own, and always when
> turning the steering wheel to the right (not just on the way back)). I
> fiddled with it to try to see if there was anything wrong and now it does
> hold its position, but still jumps out when turning the wheel to the
right.
> And it does the same for the left, but overall, it's better!
>
> Anybody having a similar experience? Is there anything else to do than
> changing it for a new one?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Fred
>

Gromit wrote:

>
>> Anybody having a similar experience? Is there anything else to do than
>> changing it for a new one?
>
>
> Check first that the rubber boot is pushed right back up to the top of the
> stalk. The extra pressure of the rubber can spring a tired switch out of
> position.

I did indeed notice that the rubber boot was changing the behaviour of the
switch. It works fine without it. I think however its position is right
now.

>
> Next make sure there's no crud on the blue collar that rotates with the
> steering wheel. Also make sure that the 2 arms on the steering wheel
> engage properly with the collar.

It all looks fine there. I even put a bit of grease, since there was
already some.

>
> If this doesn't fix it then its time to fettle the switch.
> Watch for things flying everwhere when you take the cover plate off the
> switch.
> If I remember correctly, there are 3 sprung items; the contact roller for
> the actual switch, and 2 ball bearings on ramps that do all the
> holding-the stalk-in-position stuff.
> You can try cleaning and regreasing the whole thing,
> giving the relevant springs a bit of a stretch, and recutting the ramp
> that the ball bearings run on, if they're worn.

Thanks for that. I might try, depending on the price of a new one.

>
> I did all of this and still had problems so I just removed the blue collar
> so that you've no cancelling at all. At least it stays in position that
> way. Doesn't take long to get used to cancelling manually.

I know...

>
> Oh, and don't hit yourself in the head with the steering wheel when
> removing it

Do you really have to take the steering wheel out?

Many thanks for all that.

Fred

> Do you really have to take the steering wheel out?

Yep, pretty sure you do as the arms in the steering wheel engage with
the blue collar. It isn't too difficult, though the steering wheel can
be a bit tight on the splines of the column. If you don't have a
puller, a few (unrecommended) smites with your weapon of choice on the
steering wheel, WD40 and some swearing should have it off.

If the switch works ok without the rubber boot, its probably because
the ramps on which the ball bearings run are warn.

As far as I can make out, cancelling in the wrong direction is caused
by 2 curved plastic arms that contact with the ramp on the blue collar.
These have to bend out of the way when you are turning the same
direction as you are indicating. I reckon the plastic hardens with age
and so doesn't bend properly, thus cancelling in the wrong direction.
(Maybe this'll make sense once you see inside the switch!)

Fettling the switch takes a while and is a bit fiddly and isn't
guarenteed to work. Best solution is probably just to take out the blue
collar I reckon.

Oh, and if the switch is old, the plastic ring that holds the switch in
place on the steering column WILL break. Be careful, as shoehorning a
jublie clip in its place once you've broken it is a PITA.

Gromit

In article <[email protected]>,
Gromit <[email protected]> writes
>
>> Do you really have to take the steering wheel out?
>
>Yep, pretty sure you do as the arms in the steering wheel engage with
>the blue collar. It isn't too difficult, though the steering wheel can
>be a bit tight on the splines of the column. If you don't have a
>puller, a few (unrecommended) smites with your weapon of choice on the
>steering wheel, WD40 and some swearing should have it off.

Safe way to do this is to loosen but NOT REMOVE the nut holding the
wheel on. You can then give it an almighty tug by hand, without risk of
braining yourself.

I can't claim credit for this - someone else on the list suggested it to
me ages ago, and it worked a treat.


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, UK INDEPENDENCE PARTY, BRISTOL www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/

On or around 23 Mar 2005 03:28:16 -0800, "Gromit" <[email protected]>
enlightened us thusly:

>a few (unrecommended) smites with your weapon of choice on the
>steering wheel, WD40 and some swearing should have it off.

loosen the nut, unscrew it 'til it's flush with the end of the shaft. Sit
in the driver's seat and apply a good bit of pressure using both knees and
one hand to the wheel rim, such as would pull the wheel off if it were free.
If you bend the spokes, you're pulling too hard . Now give the nut/shaft
a light-moderate smack with a medium-sized hammer, being careful to hit it
square on.

leaving the nut on the shaft stops you burring the end of the thread when
you hit it, and also stops the wheel, once released, flying off and hitting
you on the chin.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"You praise the firm restraint with which they write -_
I'm with you there, of course: They use the snaffle and the bit
alright, but where's the bloody horse? - Roy Campbell (1902-1957)