Landrover Virgin info

Shoramite · Mar 27, 2011

I think i'm a proud new owner of a freelander freestyle td4, manual,2005, ok she has been around the block a few times 102k with a full LR servive history and the lady that owened it before kept ocd amounts of paperwork witch in turn is very handy for peeps like myself.
the only additional works carried out during servicing are:-

2009 new front discs+pads,
2009 new clutch master cylinder,
2010 new rear diff oil seal,

There does appear to be a few issues that i would like your advice on,

Clutch pedal is low, but does not cause any problems atm, will try Joe's bleeding article.

EGR valve is full of crap, ordered egr bypass will fit asap and clean out the rest of the intake system while i'm at it.

At 1200 rpm ish, i have noticed a slight vibration sound in the cabin in all but top gear but its goes by 1400rpm ish, so its a second or two, and i think i noticed a small linier wobble in the gearstick, she runs as quite as a mouse other than that. My novice LR thoughts from reading LZ tells me i should be thinking of a new VCU+Damper+Bearings just to be on the safe side ?

The Demist on the rear window does not work, relay clicks but no clearing at all, will get volt meter out to check we have power ?

I welcome any help and advice you can offer to keep my freelandering experience as happy as possible.

Regards

Shor

chris.sargent · Mar 28, 2011

My Gearstick was wobbling a bit when I bought mine - was wobbling quite distinctly in first and second under load. I have changed the VCU and mounts and the rear diff mounts and that made a fair difference to the wobbling. Nowhere near as bad under full load but is now worse on light loads - I'm now suspecting the engine mounts are a little bit worn but I'm not going to worry too much about it.

If there's no record of a new VCU in the service history, at 102k miles it could well be worth changing the VCU as a preventative measure, for peace of mind as much as anything - that's the reason I changed mine.

Psycho_uk · Mar 28, 2011

Shoramite said:
The Demist on the rear window does not work, relay clicks but no clearing at all, will get volt meter out to check we have power ?

My rear demister never used to work - relay clicked etc. Took it back to garage (still under warranty) to get them to fix - they said it was working fine. Anyway, it recently failed its MOT on rear number plate light - when I took the rear door card off, the demister wasn't actually connected!!! BTW - the cables for the number plate light had snapped.....

Reconnected the demister and it works fine now. It's only 4 screws for the rear door card and easy enough to do - 10min job.

Shoramite · Mar 29, 2011

thx for the info,
does anyone know of anywhere that has a good rep in the sussex area where i can pick up a VCU etc, Dont mind getting me spanners out?

K 5ive · Mar 29, 2011

Shoramite said:
thx for the info,
does anyone know of anywhere that has a good rep in the sussex area where i can pick up a VCU etc, Dont mind getting me spanners out?

Do a search for Bell Engineering on here or google. They have a good rep and will deliver.

Shoramite · Apr 7, 2011

Shoramite said:
I think i'm a proud new owner of a freelander freestyle td4, manual,2005, ok she has been around the block a few times 102k with a full LR servive history and the lady that owened it before kept ocd amounts of paperwork witch in turn is very handy for peeps like myself.
the only additional works carried out during servicing are:-

2009 new front discs+pads,
2009 new clutch master cylinder,
2010 new rear diff oil seal,

There does appear to be a few issues that i would like your advice on,

Clutch pedal is low, but does not cause any problems atm, will try Joe's bleeding article.

EGR valve is full of crap, ordered egr bypass will fit asap and clean out the rest of the intake system while i'm at it.

At 1200 rpm ish, i have noticed a slight vibration sound in the cabin in all but top gear but its goes by 1400rpm ish, so its a second or two, and i think i noticed a small linier wobble in the gearstick, she runs as quite as a mouse other than that. My novice LR thoughts from reading LZ tells me i should be thinking of a new VCU+Damper+Bearings just to be on the safe side ?

The Demist on the rear window does not work, relay clicks but no clearing at all, will get volt meter out to check we have power ?

I welcome any help and advice you can offer to keep my freelandering experience as happy as possible.

Regards

Shor

Just an update,

Demist issue sorted. dirty contacts on the rear window.

EGR bypass fitted, works well, got the Duck, need to block the T section of the vacuum pipe.

VCU with bearings fitted, awaiting my attention during next offshift.

Clutch bleeding as above.

Vibration at 1200rpm ish, for some reason i raised the rpm to 1200 in neutral and the vibration and cabin sound was the same when driving, the gearstick still moves in a forward and backward direction 10mm either way and you can feel it through the car, any ideas?

Optimus Prime · Apr 8, 2011

Shoramite said:
EGR bypass fitted, works well, got the Duck, need to block the T section of the vacuum pipe.

or stick a 1" x No. 8 woodscrew down the end of the cotton covered tube...

nickcc · Apr 8, 2011

Have also recently bought a 2005 TD4 freestyle with 102k miles but auto as opposed to your manual. I checked with the main LR dealer, who carried out all the previous servicing, who confirmed that the VCU was original, when I suggested that various opinions advised renewal at 70k miles they advised me that whilst this may have been the case with the earlier Freelander this did not apply to the later model due to the ratios being changed. I also looked at various VCU suppliers sites where, on some, this advice is also given. I have carried out the two checks that should confirm if your VCU is working OK and these have shown it to be working correctly, so like you I am still unsure if I should change the VCU or just hope that it continues to work as intended. Just to confuse matters even more some posts (on various LR forums) suggest that buying a genuine new LR VCU is the only way that you can ensure that the VCU will work correctly, at more than double the price I would prefer to go for a good recon unit from a reputable supplier.

The Mad Hat Man · Apr 8, 2011

For what it is worth, just check it regularly and replace when necessary. Vcu's fail as much on later freelanders.

Check regularly and be confident.

chris.sargent · Apr 8, 2011

The Mad Hat Man said:
For what it is worth, just check it regularly and replace when necessary. Vcu's fail as much on later freelanders.

Check regularly and be confident.

+1. Just keep an eye on your tyre treads in particular and perhaps check how warm the vcu is getting after longer journeys. I changed the vcu on the car I bought because it felt a bit tight on full lock but the replacement was exactly the same!

Shoramite · Apr 10, 2011

thx for the info peeps, i will have a good prod around during my next 4 days off and maybe put some of the gremlins to sleep.

whythehellnot? · Apr 11, 2011

On the movement issue, check the engine tie bar which is at the right-hand rear of the engine. You need to remove the bellypan but it's easy to find. It's a common failure and will stop the engine rocking laterally.

Landrover Virgin info

Shoramite

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chris.sargent

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Psycho_uk

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Shoramite

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K 5ive

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Shoramite

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Optimus Prime

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nickcc

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The Mad Hat Man

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chris.sargent

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Shoramite

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whythehellnot?

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