Freelander 2 (LR2) Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4 restricts rpm at 3,000 - possible causes?

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tenmilestereo

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Hi all! I’d be very glad for any advice you may be able to provide!

My Land Rover Freelander 2 (L359) 2008, 2.2L TD4, goes into limp mode, restricting rpm at 3,000. The check engine light goes on (although the problem can occur for a while before that happens) and the dashboard displays the messages: “restricted engine performance” and “engine system failure”. My mechanic told me that the fault code is P2562 - Turbocharger Boost Control Position Sensor Circuit”. The issue normally occurs when the car has “warmed up”, or been driven for more than 30 minutes (or less in hot weather), and once it occurs it gets progressively worse (i.e. happening more frequently) and eventually the car goes into a constant state of restricted mode; until the fault is erased by a diagnostic tool.

My mechanic has tried the following so far: changed fuel filter, oil filter, and air filter; changed the turbo sensor; changed the mechanic part of the actuator; cleaned the DPF and the catalyst; checked and cleaned the EGR valve.

We were advised, by a mechanic who works in the official Land Rover service, and who has dealt with a similar problem before, to check the swirl valves of the suction collectors, which my mechanic did, saying that they had some breaks. He glued them together but that didn’t help. Could it be that they have to be replaced altogether? He’s also saying that there’s some valve which should be making a vacuum, but instead of staying open when it should, it closes without a trigger. Could that be the culprit?

Subsequently we took the car to the official Land Rover service for diagnosis. They’re saying that the problem is in the turbo actuator and they’re saying that the turbo needs to be replaced. They also said that it had been replaced once already. The quote they’ve given me is in excess of £2,500 and as this is an extremely expensive repair, I’d like to be certain that the problem will be eliminated by replacing the turbo.

I’ve read on various forums that a few people who had the same problem have had their turbo replaced, which didn’t resolve the problem.

Do you have any advice on what could be the cause of the problem? Could the P2562 fault code really mean that the turbo needs replacing, or is there elsewhere we should be looking at?

I’d appreciate any thoughts and advice you may have!
 
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Mine is the older TD4 2002 but had similar problem. Turned out to be crankshaft sensor which is also engine speed sensor. Mine also showed a boost fault code which confused me initially!! Maybe worth a try before going turbo route??
 
I would be wanting to read the values the ECU sees for the boost control position sensor in real time when the faults occur.

If the lights go out on the reading, it could just as easily mean a fault in the loom or the ECU as the sensor or the actuator.

The absolute last thing I'd do is pump £2.5k into a JLR stealers in the blind hope it'll fix the problem. I would be getting a 2nd hand turbo fitted first. If it doesn't resolve the problem, at least you've wasted a lot less cash.
 
Tricky getting live data with this fault. I tried, mine reved to about 3.5 to 4k rpm then cut which cut fuel pump and all associated data figures dipped too. Can't tell what is cause and what is effect! My fuel pump relay was dropping at the failure speed so this may help OP?
 
Thank you all for your input! Your comments and ideas were much appreciated! We're still investigating - so, nothing definite to report yet. We're currently looking into the fuel pump as a potential culprit. One thing we've observed is that once the issue occurs, it would disappear when you stop and rev the car on hand-break to go over 3,000 rpm, or when you stop and drive off while revving quite hard. We also noticed that the car is more likely to restrict the rpm to 3,000 when you drive off with the biting point (e.g. without using the accelerator at all, as when in a traffic jam) and conversely less likely to appear when you drive off when revving quite hard.
 
In the first post you said the dpf was checked. Dpf was not standard fit in early FL2's. Optional fit only at around £700. So it's thought few would pay eggstra for it. Does yours have a dpf fitted?
 
Yes, it does. The car was import from Switzerland when I bought it. I looked into it now and read somewhere that DPFs were fitted to most exports after July 2007. Would that make sense?
 
Yes, it does. The car was import from Switzerland when I bought it. I looked into it now and read somewhere that DPFs were fitted to most exports after July 2007. Would that make sense?
Yes. Certain countries demanded dpf's earlier than the UK did. Hence some countries all have them and others optional. The UK was optional until we had to meet EU5 regs. Then it became standard fit.
 
Hi all, I’ve got a new update. So after having tried everything else, we’re about to have the turbo charger replaced... I’ve been looking at options on http://autodoc.co.ukand I was wondering if you kindly had any advice on whether I should get an original Garrett turbo or get a cheaper brand? Currently, Motair remanufactured one seems to be one of the cheapest options: https://autodoc.co.uk/motair/8783620

Is it worth investing a little bit more and buying a new turbo charger or is a remanufactured one fine?

And one final question - can you please advice how I can establish that the turbo charger is compatible with my make and model? I have the OEM number of the part from Land Rover - it’s LR029637; and the turbo itself has the following product code stamped on it: 6G9Q-6K682-CA.

Some product pages list both codes, e.g. - the new Garrett one does: https://autodoc.co.uk/garrett/8034646

But the remanufactured Garrett lists only the second code: https://autodoc.co.uk/garrett/10192814
 
If it were mine i would use the LR part number to see what options come up as an equal or an alternative.
 
Hi all, I’ve got a new update. So after having tried everything else, we’re about to have the turbo charger replaced... I’ve been looking at options on http://autodoc.co.ukand I was wondering if you kindly had any advice on whether I should get an original Garrett turbo or get a cheaper brand? Currently, Motair remanufactured one seems to be one of the cheapest options: https://autodoc.co.uk/motair/8783620

Is it worth investing a little bit more and buying a new turbo charger or is a remanufactured one fine?

And one final question - can you please advice how I can establish that the turbo charger is compatible with my make and model? I have the OEM number of the part from Land Rover - it’s LR029637; and the turbo itself has the following product code stamped on it: 6G9Q-6K682-CA.

Some product pages list both codes, e.g. - the new Garrett one does: https://autodoc.co.uk/garrett/8034646

But the remanufactured Garrett lists only the second code: https://autodoc.co.uk/garrett/10192814
Did this resolve your problem in the end?
 
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