Disco 2 Lack of performance or just slow??

Hi all
Could i ask a couple of members to try something for me the next time there out in there TD5's

Could you give me a time for the following action.

30MPH - 60MPH acceleration on a standard TD5 on a flat road using kickdown (F**king floor it)

My current time is measured with a calendar!!!!
Ta

Disconnect MAF and try again

Reset your ECU's adaptive values.

Around 5 to 6 seconds just counting. Nearer 6

Well the one I have right now is pretty slow, maybe 16 seconds 0-60. But my old one, with EGR delete, decat, and a stage 1 remap would do 0-60 in under 11 seconds. Don't ask me how, but that thing was FAST, and my new one will be too eventually

0 to 30 is quicker than 30 to 60. Mine is somewhere in the 9 to 10 area . 0 to 60 that is

Are there any standard ones on the forum?

MJI said:

Around 5 to 6 seconds just counting. Nearer 6

Click to expand...

S**t the bed thats quick!!!!

ok a did a couple of runs last night on the same road and it was consistent at 19-20 seconds for the 30-60,

Disconnected the MAF and its took off like a scalded cat (well compared to normal) and now runs consistent at about 10-11 seconds for the same 30-60, bear in mind there is 206,000 miles on it.

I've also uncovered a binding drivers rear caliper as one alloy was roasting compared to the others after my "high speed" runs so expect this adds a couple of seconds and minus a few MPG as well.


Any tips on cleaning the MAF, or how can i be sure if i need a new one??

You already know you need a new one cos it runs better with it unplugged, cleaning it it's like a massage to a wooden leg.... according to your signature it's from 2002 that's most probably Eu3 which has the injection management based mainly on MAF/rpm inputs so if you want it to run 100% as it should you need a Genuine LR MAF , i know it's expensive but if you dont want to spend the money on a genuiine one better run without it than using aftermarket/OEM cos those are not reliable. and can do more harm than benefits especially if the EGR is still there

+1 new genuine maf

Aftermarket MAFs are rubbish.

Mine is only stage one but after 70 it is slow. but VERY quick off the line. Was told by Mike at limit for the standard torque converter.

But mine does get booted a lot, so seems to go quite well.

I have Bosch MAF for my V8. Dunno if it will work for your TD5 though.

JUKE179r said:

I have Bosch MAF for my V8. Dunno if it will work for your TD5 though.

Click to expand...

No way, it's completely different

So the long and the short of it is i spent £1000 on this car and despite its star ship mileage and s**t door locks its in pretty good condition, Whats the long term issues of not spending 1/5 of the cars value on a new MAF and driving with the old one disconnected??

The only issue is that it's not running as it should which means slightly higher consumption and EGT, slightly lower power and and not so good throttle response...in a nutshell it works aprox 85-90% from it's overall capacity

JUKE179r said:

Reset your ECU's adaptive values.

Click to expand...

What does this mean?

My bad. I thought this problem was for a V8 engine. Disregard the reset of ECU adaptions.