L322 snapped front anti roll bar

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richardmartin

richardmartin

Member
Posts
11
Location
Shropshire
Hi i have bought a cheap l322 2003 td6 which has a snapped front anti roll bar. Ive purchased a replacement and removed the broken one. Can anyone tell me how to fit the replacement do i have to drop the sub frame or is there an easier way. Many thanks in advance. Cheers Richard
 
richardmartin said:
Hi i have bought a cheap l322 2003 td6 which has a snapped front anti roll bar. Ive purchased a replacement and removed the broken one. Can anyone tell me how to fit the replacement do i have to drop the sub frame or is there an easier way. Many thanks in advance. Cheers Richard
Click to expand...
Use the search facility top right corner I'm sure someone had a similar problem a while ago.;)
 
marjon said:
Surely it’s one of those statements that says follow the removal in reverse order to put back together:)
Or am I missing Something ;)

J
Click to expand...
Thanks for your comment but yes you are missing something. I did say the anti roll bar was snapped. Because of this it was easy to remove since it was in two pieces. I simply unbolted the drop links either side and removed the two bush clamps then i managed to untangle each half from the suspension components. Obviously Im not gifted with the new anti roll bar being in two pieces since its not snapped, hence it’s impossible to “Follow the removal in reverse order to put it back together again”. Your reply was very enlightening obviously your comments are neither born out of knowledge or experience but thank-you all the same for your feedback.
kind Regards Richard
 
richardmartin said:
Hi i have bought a cheap l322 2003 td6 which has a snapped front anti roll bar. Ive purchased a replacement and removed the broken one. Can anyone tell me how to fit the replacement do i have to drop the sub frame or is there an easier way. Many thanks in advance. Cheers Richard
Click to expand...
Have you downloaded a copy of RAVE, which can be found somewhere on these pages? If not , now is the time to do it. I can't answer your question but RAVE most likely can :)
 
Can't find anything in RAVE about replacing anti-roll bar but here's what it does say.

Anti-Roll Bar and Links
The anti-roll bar is fabricated from 30mm diameter, solid spring steel bar. The anti-roll bar operates, via a pair of links,
from a bracket mounted on each strut.
The anti-roll bar is attached to the rear of the subframe with two bushes which are bonded to the bar and cannot be
removed. Clamp plates are pressed onto the bushes and must not be removed. The anti-roll bar is secured to the
subframe with the clamp plates which are located on studs on the subframe and secured with nuts.
The ends of the anti-roll bar are attached to each strut spring seat via an anti-roll bar link. This arrangement allows
the anti-roll bar to act on a 1:1 ratio with the wheel travel providing maximum roll bar effectiveness. A hardened washer
is fitted between the ball joint and the strut mounting plate. The hardened washer prevents the ball joint damaging the
bracket, which could lead to loosening of the torque on the nut. When the link is removed from the strut, it is important
to ensure that the correct hardened washer is replaced in the correct position.
Each anti-roll bar link has a ball joint fitting at each end which improves response and efficiency. The top ball joint is
mounted at 90° to the axis of the link and attaches directly to the strut and is secured with a locknut. The lower ball
joint is mounted at 90° to the axis of the link. The ball joint attaches to the anti-roll bar and is secured with a locknut.
The link must be attached to the anti-roll bar with the ball joint on the outside of the bar and the locknut facing inwards.
The ball joints on the anti-roll bar links are not serviceable and if replacement of either is necessary, a new anti-roll
bar link will be required.

upload_2021-5-23_22-51-36.png
 
backinblack said:
Can't find anything in RAVE about replacing anti-roll bar but here's what it does say.

Anti-Roll Bar and Links
The anti-roll bar is fabricated from 30mm diameter, solid spring steel bar. The anti-roll bar operates, via a pair of links,
from a bracket mounted on each strut.
The anti-roll bar is attached to the rear of the subframe with two bushes which are bonded to the bar and cannot be
removed. Clamp plates are pressed onto the bushes and must not be removed. The anti-roll bar is secured to the
subframe with the clamp plates which are located on studs on the subframe and secured with nuts.
The ends of the anti-roll bar are attached to each strut spring seat via an anti-roll bar link. This arrangement allows
the anti-roll bar to act on a 1:1 ratio with the wheel travel providing maximum roll bar effectiveness. A hardened washer
is fitted between the ball joint and the strut mounting plate. The hardened washer prevents the ball joint damaging the
bracket, which could lead to loosening of the torque on the nut. When the link is removed from the strut, it is important
to ensure that the correct hardened washer is replaced in the correct position.
Each anti-roll bar link has a ball joint fitting at each end which improves response and efficiency. The top ball joint is
mounted at 90° to the axis of the link and attaches directly to the strut and is secured with a locknut. The lower ball
joint is mounted at 90° to the axis of the link. The ball joint attaches to the anti-roll bar and is secured with a locknut.
The link must be attached to the anti-roll bar with the ball joint on the outside of the bar and the locknut facing inwards.
The ball joints on the anti-roll bar links are not serviceable and if replacement of either is necessary, a new anti-roll
bar link will be required.

View attachment 238981
Click to expand...
Hey thats fantastic thanks it clearly shows i will have to lower the subframe via the 6 body mounts maybe slacken the front four but remove completely the rear two in order to get the space to negotiate the anti roll bar around the suspension components. Thats made things a lot clearer for me thanks your a gent
 
Seeing as you dont have a manual to look at to help you, here I have put some of mine up for you.:).


Stabilizer Bar and Links
The stabilizer bar is fabricated from 31 mm diameter, spring steel tube with a 5.5 mm wall thickness. The stabilizer bar operates, via a pair of links, from a bracket mounted on each strut.
The stabilizer bar is attached to the rear of the subframe with two bushes which are bonded to the bar and cannot be removed. Clamp plates are pressed onto the bushes and must not be removed. The stabilizer bar is secured to the subframe with the clamp plates which are located on studs on the subframe and secured with nuts.
Each end of the stabilizer bar is attached to a bracket on each strut via a stabilizer link. This arrangement allows the stabilizer bar to act on a 1:1 ratio with the wheel travel providing maximum stabilizer bar effectiveness. A hardened washer is fitted between the ball joint and the strut mounting plate. The hardened washer prevents the ball joint damaging the bracket, which could lead to loosening of the torque on the nut. It is important that this washer is in the correct position and the correct, hardened washer is fitted. Failure to fit the washer or using an incorrect washer will result in relaxation of the torque on the self-locking nut and damage will be caused to the stabilizer bar link and the strut.
Each stabilizer link has a ball joint fitting at each end mounted at 90° to the axis of the link. The ball joints improve the response and efficiency of the stabilizer bar. The top ball joint attaches directly to a bracket on the strut and the lower ball joint attaches to a hole in the stabilizer bar. Both ball joints are secured with self-locking nuts.
Each link must be attached to the stabilizer bar with the ball joint on the outside of the bar and the locknut facing inwards. The ball joints on the stabilizer links are not serviceable and if replacement of either is necessary, a new stabilizer link will be required.
Suspension Links


upload_2021-5-24_7-41-10.png


upload_2021-5-24_7-44-3.png

Front Suspension - Front Stabilizer Bar
Removal and Installation
Removal
1. Remove the engine undershield. For additional information, refer to: Engine Undershield (501-02 Front End Body Panels, Removal and Installation).
2. WARNING: Do not work on or under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always support the vehicle on safety stands.
Raise the front of the vehicle.
3. Remove the front wheels and tires.
4. Release the stabilizer bar links from the stabilizer bar.
 Remove the 2 nuts.
5. NOTE: RH illustration shown, LH is similar
Remove the 2 heat shields from the stabilizer bar.
 Remove the 4 nuts.
 Remove the 4 bolts.
6. Support the front subframe.
7. Lower the rear of the front subframe.
 Loosen the 2 bolts.
 Remove and discard the 6 bolts.
8. Release the front stabilizer bar.
 Remove the 4 nuts.
9. Remove the front stabilizer bar.

upload_2021-5-24_7-52-42.png


upload_2021-5-24_7-53-15.png


Torque Specifications

Stabilizer bar link nuts +
100 Nm
74 lb-ft
Stabilizer bar clamp nuts
56 Nm
41 lb-ft
Subframe to body bolts +
Stage 1 - All bolts
165 Nm
122 lb-ft
Stage 2 - Rear bolts
Then a further 90 degrees

Subframe to front crossmember bolt
132 Nm
97 lb-ft
 
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