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L322 key won't turn in ignition (my fix)

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by robc211967, Apr 28, 2019.

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  1. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    First thread post so be kind! This is my fix to a common problem having tried most other fixes. Not sure if I am correct in creating a new thread as opposed to tagging this on the end of one of the others.

    So, having fixed a litany of other problems I was looking for a trouble free period but that was too much to expect and found that my ignition key would go in but would not turn no matter how much I locked/unlocked car and inserted/removed key in ignition barrel. The key would become free to turn the one time if I disconnected the battery waited a few minutes then reconnected it. This would make the car virtually useless to use. Did some research on the net and found a fix by removing fuse 18 then re-inserting it again not exactly practical every time you wanted to start the car. So I got cute (so I thought) and put a wire loop with a switch in (both push button and toggle types) saving me the effort of pulling and re-inserting the fuse which was making it loose in the clamps. Not sure for why but neither switches were 100% successful all the time. So I tried replacing the upper steering column again no luck!! Before I set fire to the car I thought I would go to the ignition barrel, I think and hope this fix will last!! and following are a few pictures and brief guide to what I did.

    1) After removing switch panel with transfer and hill descent switches. Undo the screws securing the upper console/tunnel panel and lift enough to grab ignition barrel.

    console cover partly off.jpg

    2) Remove screws holding ignition barrel, remove electrical connector blocks and the white plastic cable holder (bit fiddly that one seen on left of barrel in pic) then take ignition barrel out to do the next step.
    Ignition key barrel.jpg

    3) Using the above pic you will notice that directly above the white connector block there is a hole where another connector block should be. (took the picture during re-assemble process sorry)
    On your removed barrel locate this black connector then remove it. I will be honest it took me an age to get out as I did not want to damage the very thin walls holding the block in. It's a bit dog eared now but still could hold connector. BEWARE there is a plunger that could fall out so have a cloth or bowl under to catch it.
    key lock ignition block.jpg

    4) Once removed you will either have seen the plunger fall out or will have stayed in in which case it can be easily pulled out pic of it below
    plunger minus plastic ring.jpg
    You may notice that in the above pic there is a plastic ring missing! This I think was my issue because the ring looked like the pic below and was between block and barrel.
    plunger platic ring.jpg
    I tried to glue it back together and re-assemble. Problem went away for a few days then came back! I took barrel out again took plunger out and left it out.
    My patience was all used up so I put ignition barrel back in without the plunger connector (in the pic under step 2 you can see a hole where the plunger goes in and prevents the key turning). Being unsure that the removed connector had more of a role than just energising the solenoid I kept it next to ignition barrel but with the connector attached. This means the computers cannot tell that the plunger is there just that the electro magnet works. Reason for my unsure being that it has 4 wires not just 2. I'm sure someone here will know why :)
    ignition key block connector.jpg

    Anyway this seems to have worked after testing in garage. Car is now out of our equivalent of an MOT so have not tried it on the road.
    Also note that this pin will disable some stuff. Obviously one is the security feature of locking the key barrel when the key is out so I guess could be easier to steal! but quite honestly I would not be too upset if it was stolen and would feel a little sorry for the robber as it would inevitably break down somewhere!! LOL

    Hope this might help someone but equally if this fix is deemed wrong please feel free to get admins to remove or if you want it in another thread etc....
     
    Grrrrrr and holidaychicken like this.
  2. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    Good post, the ignition barrel doesn't lock on most cars so sounds like a good idea.
     
  3. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    Thanks Datatek, did strike me as a little excessive to lock the barrel, but there you go. Was a little unsure whether I might have gone a little to far! Having not seen others do similar either here or elsewhere on the web. However to receive positive feedback from a seasoned LR person is reassuring. Thanks
     
  4. tomcat59alan

    tomcat59alan Well-Known Member

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    Good post, did you think of using QuickSteel or something similar in place of the plastic ring?
     
  5. dubbleRR

    dubbleRR Active Member

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    I think the steering lock is part of the mot in Britain ,If it don"t engage ,disengage Its a fail .And another one is key must not fall out ,not sure how that works with key cards and the likes, in yer pocketo_Oo_O:D.....
     
  6. discool

    discool Well-Known Member

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    “key cards” make it keyless ignition.
     

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  7. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    And dead easy to nick.
     
  8. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2019
  9. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2019
  10. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    I did consider it but the ring is rather small and I would have had to file it to make it round and such so I just thought I would try it without the plunger and it works! Saved me time and effort lol.
     
  11. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    The fix does not affect the steering lock that still works and was never part of the problem. The plunger I removed was only the key lock in the ignition barrel. There is no chance of key falling out as it stands near enough vertical in the barrel as its located in the console instead of being part of the steering column. I'm sure if you asked RR about the key in pocket issue they would be able to engineer a very convoluted answer involving computers for that!!
     
  12. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    Apologies for the . Posts I could not remove them after I worked out how to use the quoted text thing!! ☺️☺️
     
  13. tomcat59alan

    tomcat59alan Well-Known Member

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    Press edit post then delete all of it.;) I was thinking use quick steel but wrap the barrel and the part of the column where it fits, with cling film, so when it sets it will still turn and retain the barrel.
     
  14. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    Yeah already tried edit and delete text but I get an error when I try to save it says enter valid text Without pulling it all apart again, if I remember rightly the plastic is there just to prevent the metal plunger hitting the plastic when the pin locks and not damage the solenoid when plunger retracts. I'm not going to tell you what to do but in my case I was so over fiddling around with various work arounds I lost my cool and just left the plunger out! When it worked I re-assembled the thing and walked away seems to be working thus far. As I said above I think it's just a little excessive and over engineered. I just wish I had done that first, would have saved me heaps of time, effort and swearing lol
     
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  15. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    If you delete all the text, just leave a full stop or other symbol and it will accept the edit.
     
  16. robc211967

    robc211967 Member

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    Yep that's what I ended up doing but felt guilty posting two "dot" posts.
     
  17. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Jedwood Spannerhands

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    Great first post. I am sure another L322 sucker, sorry, owner, will be very grateful.
     
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