robc211967
Member
- Posts
- 13
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
First thread post so be kind! This is my fix to a common problem having tried most other fixes. Not sure if I am correct in creating a new thread as opposed to tagging this on the end of one of the others.
So, having fixed a litany of other problems I was looking for a trouble free period but that was too much to expect and found that my ignition key would go in but would not turn no matter how much I locked/unlocked car and inserted/removed key in ignition barrel. The key would become free to turn the one time if I disconnected the battery waited a few minutes then reconnected it. This would make the car virtually useless to use. Did some research on the net and found a fix by removing fuse 18 then re-inserting it again not exactly practical every time you wanted to start the car. So I got cute (so I thought) and put a wire loop with a switch in (both push button and toggle types) saving me the effort of pulling and re-inserting the fuse which was making it loose in the clamps. Not sure for why but neither switches were 100% successful all the time. So I tried replacing the upper steering column again no luck!! Before I set fire to the car I thought I would go to the ignition barrel, I think and hope this fix will last!! and following are a few pictures and brief guide to what I did.
1) After removing switch panel with transfer and hill descent switches. Undo the screws securing the upper console/tunnel panel and lift enough to grab ignition barrel.
2) Remove screws holding ignition barrel, remove electrical connector blocks and the white plastic cable holder (bit fiddly that one seen on left of barrel in pic) then take ignition barrel out to do the next step.
3) Using the above pic you will notice that directly above the white connector block there is a hole where another connector block should be. (took the picture during re-assemble process sorry)
On your removed barrel locate this black connector then remove it. I will be honest it took me an age to get out as I did not want to damage the very thin walls holding the block in. It's a bit dog eared now but still could hold connector. BEWARE there is a plunger that could fall out so have a cloth or bowl under to catch it.
4) Once removed you will either have seen the plunger fall out or will have stayed in in which case it can be easily pulled out pic of it below
You may notice that in the above pic there is a plastic ring missing! This I think was my issue because the ring looked like the pic below and was between block and barrel.
I tried to glue it back together and re-assemble. Problem went away for a few days then came back! I took barrel out again took plunger out and left it out.
My patience was all used up so I put ignition barrel back in without the plunger connector (in the pic under step 2 you can see a hole where the plunger goes in and prevents the key turning). Being unsure that the removed connector had more of a role than just energising the solenoid I kept it next to ignition barrel but with the connector attached. This means the computers cannot tell that the plunger is there just that the electro magnet works. Reason for my unsure being that it has 4 wires not just 2. I'm sure someone here will know why
Anyway this seems to have worked after testing in garage. Car is now out of our equivalent of an MOT so have not tried it on the road.
Also note that this pin will disable some stuff. Obviously one is the security feature of locking the key barrel when the key is out so I guess could be easier to steal! but quite honestly I would not be too upset if it was stolen and would feel a little sorry for the robber as it would inevitably break down somewhere!! LOL
Hope this might help someone but equally if this fix is deemed wrong please feel free to get admins to remove or if you want it in another thread etc....
So, having fixed a litany of other problems I was looking for a trouble free period but that was too much to expect and found that my ignition key would go in but would not turn no matter how much I locked/unlocked car and inserted/removed key in ignition barrel. The key would become free to turn the one time if I disconnected the battery waited a few minutes then reconnected it. This would make the car virtually useless to use. Did some research on the net and found a fix by removing fuse 18 then re-inserting it again not exactly practical every time you wanted to start the car. So I got cute (so I thought) and put a wire loop with a switch in (both push button and toggle types) saving me the effort of pulling and re-inserting the fuse which was making it loose in the clamps. Not sure for why but neither switches were 100% successful all the time. So I tried replacing the upper steering column again no luck!! Before I set fire to the car I thought I would go to the ignition barrel, I think and hope this fix will last!! and following are a few pictures and brief guide to what I did.
1) After removing switch panel with transfer and hill descent switches. Undo the screws securing the upper console/tunnel panel and lift enough to grab ignition barrel.
2) Remove screws holding ignition barrel, remove electrical connector blocks and the white plastic cable holder (bit fiddly that one seen on left of barrel in pic) then take ignition barrel out to do the next step.
3) Using the above pic you will notice that directly above the white connector block there is a hole where another connector block should be. (took the picture during re-assemble process sorry)
On your removed barrel locate this black connector then remove it. I will be honest it took me an age to get out as I did not want to damage the very thin walls holding the block in. It's a bit dog eared now but still could hold connector. BEWARE there is a plunger that could fall out so have a cloth or bowl under to catch it.
4) Once removed you will either have seen the plunger fall out or will have stayed in in which case it can be easily pulled out pic of it below
You may notice that in the above pic there is a plastic ring missing! This I think was my issue because the ring looked like the pic below and was between block and barrel.
I tried to glue it back together and re-assemble. Problem went away for a few days then came back! I took barrel out again took plunger out and left it out.
My patience was all used up so I put ignition barrel back in without the plunger connector (in the pic under step 2 you can see a hole where the plunger goes in and prevents the key turning). Being unsure that the removed connector had more of a role than just energising the solenoid I kept it next to ignition barrel but with the connector attached. This means the computers cannot tell that the plunger is there just that the electro magnet works. Reason for my unsure being that it has 4 wires not just 2. I'm sure someone here will know why
Anyway this seems to have worked after testing in garage. Car is now out of our equivalent of an MOT so have not tried it on the road.
Also note that this pin will disable some stuff. Obviously one is the security feature of locking the key barrel when the key is out so I guess could be easier to steal! but quite honestly I would not be too upset if it was stolen and would feel a little sorry for the robber as it would inevitably break down somewhere!! LOL
Hope this might help someone but equally if this fix is deemed wrong please feel free to get admins to remove or if you want it in another thread etc....
