L322 gearbox fault" trans fail safe"

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Posts
17
Location
Lancashire
Hi guys I have recently bought am l322 td6 which is now coming up with a fault " trans fail safe prog" I suspect it's the transfer box motor as the fault won't clear, but I tried a friends and it did, also seems to slip a bit in fifth gear in auto. Seen quite a bit from Bemble may be if he sees this I may be able to employ his services
 
Hello again, you tried a friends what, transfer box motor and then the fault cleared ?
Apart from the message,what symptoms are you getting other than the slipping in 5th
The transmission failsafe program can be caused by a number of different problems, do you have access to any diagnostics ?
It would help if you add your year of manufacture and how many miles the vehicle has covered
 
Hello again, you tried a friends what, transfer box motor and then the fault cleared ?
Apart from the message,what symptoms are you getting other than the slipping in 5th
The transmission failsafe program can be caused by a number of different problems, do you have access to any diagnostics ?
It would help if you add your year of manufacture and how many miles the vehicle has covered
Be gentle Andy, he's a virgin.;):D
 
Hi, sorry for lack of info. My vehicle is a 2003 hse, it has 141k on the clock. I didn't notice the trans fail safe on when I road tested the vehicle when I bought it, the guy told me that the gearbox had been overhauled about 3years ago but was getting due the oil and filter changing. So I changed the oil and filter in the gearbox hoping this might clear the fault, it didn't! I got the oil and filter from my local Land Rover parts supplier Buckley brother in Darwen Lancashire they assured me that it was the right oil and filter for my vehicle. When I removed the sump pan I found two bolts on the magnet in the sump, I could see they had fallen out from what look like valves, I refitted them and set the oil to the correct level at the correct temp. I have been a mechanic for around 25yrs, (but never been involved with auto gearboxes) I have access to z snap on ethos and got the fault code 0x5221 and there was some CAN faults in there too! I clear all codes and drove the vehicle and rescanned, only the 0x5221 was present, when I cleared the fault and start the vehicle the fault code is back straight away, I tried a motor of a friends car and the code cleared, I have opened my motor and it is full of oil, the seal looks tone damaged, when I looked in the live data it looked like the Ecu thought my vehicle was in low range, the the transfer box is in high, on the motorway it feels/sounds like it slipping in 5th gear when I accelerate up to speed or put my foot down to over take. It has never locked in a gear, thoil that came out a browny colour but didn't have any bits in it other than the two bolts!!
 
I have cleaned all the battery connection and have over 14 volts on idle, the battery voltage seems good when vehicle off, and starts good even when left a couple of days??
 
Bemble may be by but you can search his posts as RRPhil also as that is him on other sites and i have posted a link below to him on another site checking the shift motor resistance.
There are plenty of others on here with more experience than me and i am only quoting snippets of information i have picked up from Bemble and the likes of SaintV8 also.
If the motor has oil in it i would imagine that would cause your problem and if the fault clears with the borrowed motor then that would be your cause but investigate the leak or you may kill a new one potentially if it's not an internal seal in the motor.

Does the transfer shift between high and low ?

The slipping clutch could be the lock up clutch on its way which can be fatal for the transmission as the metal debris finds it's way into the transmission. i understand the valve block is the cause of the TC failure due to reduced pressure on the plates and so by replacing the clutch the root cause hasn't been cured so the problem returns only quicker the second time which could be why your transmission was replaced already at the usual 100k mark and then you are due a second one if the cause was the valve block the first time around.

i believe the test to see if the lock up clutch is working is to drive at 60 mph plus and take your foot off the accelerator and if the revs drop then you are not locked.

Along with the two bolts, was there any metallic debris on the magnets ?

Do you get any rumble noise when slowly accelerating ?

It could also be the 5th transmission clutch failing i guess but hopefully somebody with more knowledge than me will be along soon as i have only worked on one ZF5HP24 transmission.

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/208328-Trans-failsafe-prog
 
When in fail safe mode the gearbox locks to 4th gear and will slip in use.

Yesterday I drove back from Winchester to Bisley with fail safe warning on, locked in 4th and slipped when accelerating.

It would almost certainly be pointing to transfer shift motor as the issue.

Most common is the switch potentiometer breaking down. They are not available seperatly and requires the whole motor.
 
Bemble may be by but you can search his posts as RRPhil also as that is him on other sites and i have posted a link below to him on another site checking the shift motor resistance.
There are plenty of others on here with more experience than me and i am only quoting snippets of information i have picked up from Bemble and the likes of SaintV8 also.
If the motor has oil in it i would imagine that would cause your problem and if the fault clears with the borrowed motor then that would be your cause but investigate the leak or you may kill a new one potentially if it's not an internal seal in the motor.

Does the transfer shift between high and low ?

The slipping clutch could be the lock up clutch on its way which can be fatal for the transmission as the metal debris finds it's way into the transmission. i understand the valve block is the cause of the TC failure due to reduced pressure on the plates and so by replacing the clutch the root cause hasn't been cured so the problem returns only quicker the second time which could be why your transmission was replaced already at the usual 100k mark and then you are due a second one if the cause was the valve block the first time around.

i believe the test to see if the lock up clutch is working is to drive at 60 mph plus and take your foot off the accelerator and if the revs drop then you are not locked.

Along with the two bolts, was there any metallic debris on the magnets ?

Do you get any rumble noise when slowly accelerating ?

It could also be the 5th transmission clutch failing i guess but hopefully somebody with more knowledge than me will be along soon as i have only worked on one ZF5HP24 transmission.

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php/208328-Trans-failsafe-prog
Thanks for the help, no low can't be selected, the magnet was pretty clean and the pan wasn't overly dirty either. Sometimes when warm I get like a thumping noise when setting off, I will try the test I would say the revs drop and then when I accelerate again it sounds to be slipping if I floor it, I it's not sounding good I think it is going to need surgery soon
 
Thumping into drive is a sign the box has gone into Failsafe and selected 4th gear....the slipping is there to allow you to pull away without stalling.
I think I need to get a motor or that one repaired ASAP and get the codes cleared to see how it goes then!! I have read Bemble can repair them but I can't get hold of him, do you know the name of his business, I am not far from him in lancs
 
I think I need to get a motor or that one repaired ASAP and get the codes cleared to see how it goes then!! I have read Bemble can repair them but I can't get hold of him, do you know the name of his business, I am not far from him in lancs
I don't know what it is called now you mention it!!

Maybe @holidaychicken knows....he and the legend that is RRPhil/Bemble got on very well when HC was rebuilding his gearbox.

Also I am not sure if Phil does Transfer Shift Motors or just the main gearboxes.....so keep other options open too.
 
I don't know what it is called now you mention it!!

Maybe @holidaychicken knows....he and the legend that is RRPhil/Bemble got on very well when HC was rebuilding his gearbox.

Also I am not sure if Phil does Transfer Shift Motors or just the main gearboxes.....so keep other options open too.
Thanks for the info I will post a thread later this week and see if he picks up on it, but I need to get it sorted, I don't want to damage it further
 
I don't think Phil repairs the transfer shift motors but i could be wrong. i read a thread that i have attached below to the competition where Phil was working through a repair but i dont think the outcome was a definitive solution.
I'll see if i can track Phil down as i am not sure if his business has gone live yet.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...r-box-potentiometer-dimensions-gyrogypsy.html
That's would be great if you could track him down, I would really appreciate it, I will read the thread through. Thank you for your help/advise on this one
 
Hi all. I notice it's been a while since anyone posted. I wondered if this problem had ever been resolved? I now have the Trans failsafe prog error. My mate is an AA patrol. His computer gave a CAN communication to transmission error. It's a 52 plate Vogue. I had the gearbox reconditioned just over a year ago. The car is on 109k. I can't shift into low ratio and the car is stuck in 4th gear. The battery voltage was low (around 11.7 volts), I've had it on charge today. It's now at 12.7 volts and the error is still active. I have read this thread -http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-...box-potentiometer-dimensions-gyrogypsy-7.html I plan to carry out the same bodge professional repair as post #95, if it is the potentiometer at fault. I can't believe these are not available anywhere!?
 
Well keep us posted if you manage to carry out the repair, there are usually plenty of second hand ones on the bay.
However, the battery could be the problem but i have read many times about recon boxes failing after around a year unless the valve block was tested and reconditioned at the same time
 
Back
Top