L322 02 Propeller support bearing

L322 - 02 2002 3.0 tdi
Going by the attached photo, am I right in presumng that I need a new support bearing?
Any special tools needed?
Anything in particular to look out for?
I've searched for posts to step me through it, but I don't see any -
Thanks

Yep you need a new prop centre bearing, most just swop out the complete prop

Thanks, I see one on Onbuy, the part number is TLRTVB500390
How can I ckeck it's the correct one? Will there be a part number on the original one somewhere?

The rust on the UJ would tend to indicate that the bearings have gone which is probably what caused the centre bearing failure.

Advanced factors do new for £400 ish
I'm sure there are very good condition sh ones out there if you don't want new

Mid-life-crisis said:

Thanks, I see one on Onbuy, the part number is TLRTVB500390
How can I ckeck it's the correct one? Will there be a part number on the original one somewhere?

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Use lrcat.com it's in Russian but when you find the part click on the number by the arrow pointing to it,it could be blue but the memory's not the best,this will give you the part number.

tomcat59alan said:

Use lrcat.com it's in Russian but when you find the part click on the number by the arrow pointing to it,it could be blue but the memory's not the best,this will give you the part number.

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Just had a quick look and the memory isn't that bad,the centre bearing is available separately part number TOQ000050

tomcat59alan said:

Just had a quick look and the memory isn't that bad,the centre bearing is available separately part number TOQ000050

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Lots of new bearings for sale on the Bay.

Datatek said:

The rust on the UJ would tend to indicate that the bearings have gone which is probably what caused the centre bearing failure.

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Your right ôn the nail there Keith. It could well be time for a new prop

Mark Piercy said:

Your right ôn the nail there Keith. It could well be time for a new prop

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I take it the UJ's are crimped in place no circlips.

Thank you all
It'll be a few days before I can get a replacement, but I'm going to try to get the old shaft out tomorrow. So I have 3 questions
1 - do I really need to take the exhaust off like the manual says I do?
2 - once I get the old shaft out, will the car drive on 2WD without it and will I do any harm if I do?
3 - is it an MOT fail to drive with the shaft out?
Thanks

Mid-life-crisis said:

Thank you all
It'll be a few days before I can get a replacement, but I'm going to try to get the old shaft out tomorrow. So I have 3 questions
1 - do I really need to take the exhaust off like the manual says I do?
2 - once I get the old shaft out, will the car drive on 2WD without it and will I do any harm if I do?
3 - is it an MOT fail to drive with the shaft out?
Thanks

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Hmmm, the exhaust I'm not sure about tbh.
Driving it without the prop I personally wouldn't.
it's best to have the inconvenience rather than the problem of something mechanical and expensive go wrong.
As for the mot, good question ??

Mid-life-crisis said:

Thank you all
It'll be a few days before I can get a replacement, but I'm going to try to get the old shaft out tomorrow. So I have 3 questions
1 - do I really need to take the exhaust off like the manual says I do?
2 - once I get the old shaft out, will the car drive on 2WD without it and will I do any harm if I do?
3 - is it an MOT fail to drive with the shaft out?
Thanks

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They may just say remove exhaust for ease of getting to it and space to allow it to drop out. If you can get to the bolts and wiggle it out then dont need too. you could try but be prepared to remove it incase there is not enough space to get it out. For the front the manual says " remove transmission support frame" I managed to just drop 1 side when I did mine.
So it may well wiggle out its worth a try.

I am pretty sure you will not get drive with a prop removed as the TB design doesnt allow you to lock it, The early 1s had a torsion Bais then the later 1s had an electronic controlled clutch. With no physical way of locking. (think thats right).

Dont forget they recommend new bolts for the prop, I didn't as didn't have the manual I needed till after parts arrived. But they have been fine. So I would leave that to you, but I would guess if its original as mine was then using again is no issue. Its more of a Land Rover cover arse thing I think as they say it for pretty much every bolt.


J

took my rear one out without touching exhaust , having said that still haven't got the rear off the second rr, have even driven round the yard with no bolts in

Datatek said:

The rust on the UJ would tend to indicate that the bearings have gone which is probably what caused the centre bearing failure.

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Spot on Datatek, I got the old shaft out and not only is the UJ knackered, the CVs at each end are also stiff and notchy
Here are some bits of (hopefully useful) information
There's no need to drop the exhaust. The complete shaft slides out towards the front of the car
Apart from giving better height access, I don't think there's a need to get all 4 wheels off the ground. The shaft will rotate with one wheel on each side up.
The 6 nuts at the rear differential are 16mm
The two nuts on the centre bearing carrier are 13mm
The 6 torx bolts at the transfer box are E12
Both ends of the shaft sit into slight recesses on the transfer box and the rear differential. There are two diametrically opposed notches machined into each end of the shaft to accept a lever and force the shaft away from the cup - see photo
Hope this helps someone

I take it the UJ's are sealed for life and they've come to the end of it., nice write up and we love photos.