Freelander 1 L series

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andyfreelandy

andyfreelandy

Well-Known Member
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As mentioned before, looking to pick up an L series as a spares or repair.
Never had or even seen an L series but is it similar to the later types with regards to immobiliser etc?

Vehicle has no keys or fobs (so it is very very cheap), initially I saw it as a parts car but as is my style, I like to try to repair them if I can.

Any tips on either getting a key chip or was it in the remote back in the dark ages when GGs vehicle type was invented!? :eek:

OR how to fool it into starting to at least try the engine?

Be interesting to drive an L series and see how it feels. Steering lock not a problem, but the chip maybe. How do the electronics differ please?
 
All the electrical gubbins are in the fob on an L Series.

You could get it turning over by simply routing the starter relay to an earth rather than the CCU, but that won't get the ECU/EDC going to work the fuel pump.

You can do some wiring changes to get the EDC working without the CCU, I've seen it done, but not sure exactly what those changes were.
 
If you have a Hawkeye you can program any of the two button Lucas fobs from a Rover/MG/Freelander of the time. Might need to mess around with ignition wires to get ignition power when requested by the Hawkeye though, if you don't have the key.

Just a thought, would the EVRY mod work as a way to bypass the ECU in terms of getting the fuel pump working?
 
Wonk said:
If you have a Hawkeye you can program any of the two button Lucas fobs from a Rover/MG/Freelander of the time. Might need to mess around with ignition wires to get ignition power when requested by the Hawkeye though, if you don't have the key.

Just a thought, would the EVRY mod work as a way to bypass the ECU in terms of getting the fuel pump working?
Click to expand...
Think the EVRY mod amplifies stuff - so if there's nothing showing it won't do much.
 
I have read that you can turn the immob off early cars by using the EKA code. Emergency key access code.

If I can obtain a code then I could disconnect the drivers door lock barrel and operate the required number of turns each way by pulling and pushing the rod??

Anyone used an EKA and did it turn off the immob??
Anyone know where to get the EKA code from?? Dealer perhaps?
 
andyfreelandy said:
I have read that you can turn the immob off early cars by using the EKA code. Emergency key access code.

If I can obtain a code then I could disconnect the drivers door lock barrel and operate the required number of turns each way by pulling and pushing the rod??

Anyone used an EKA and did it turn off the immob??
Anyone know where to get the EKA code from?? Dealer perhaps?
Click to expand...
I believe dealers are pretty good at issuing the codes built into the cars - but you do need concrete evidence of who you are and that you own the car.
 
The EKA does turn off the immobiliser, and yes I've done it.
I can't remember if the switch contacts are in the latch assembly, or in the key barrel though. Whichever it is, they will need to be activated in the correct sequence for the immobiliser to be overridden.
 
Thanks, that is good. Presume early cars only had this facility. I remember it on an old MGF. So only problem now is I can't prove ownership as logbook is lost with keys!!!

I think I can request a new logbook but, of course, this doesn't prove ownership.

If the EKA is an electrical switch on the barrel then I can emulate it with a couple of switches!?
 
andyfreelandy said:
Thanks, that is good. Presume early cars only had this facility. I remember it on an old MGF.
Click to expand...
Yes the MGF and Honda based Rovers used what is known as a Lucas 5AS immobiliser unit. It can be overridden with the EKA.
After the 2000 MY update, the FL1 went over to the more sophisticated BMW based system, which was also used in the Rover 75. The keys and fobs are different between the pre 2000 and post 2000 FL1, the immobiliser transponder moving into the tear shaped key in the later FL1. Because the transponder moved to the key (it was previously in the fob), the need for the EKA was eliminated completely.
andyfreelandy said:
So only problem now is I can't prove ownership as logbook is lost with keys!!!

I think I can request a new logbook but, of course, this doesn't prove ownership
Click to expand...
When you get the V5, that should be good enough with LR for proof of ownership. You could always give your local LR dealer a ring to confirm that. ;)
andyfreelandy said:
If the EKA is an electrical switch on the barrel then I can emulate it with a couple of that.

andyfreelandy said:
If the EKA is an electrical switch on the barrel then I can emulate it with a couple of switches!?
Click to expand...

That would do. There's probably 3 wires in the switching circuit. One will be common, the other 2 will be switched to the common, one to lock, the other to unlock.

I can't remember the sequence though, but it's the same for all 5AS based units, so the necessary information is out there.
Click to expand...
 
Cool, dealership just given me the EKA and key code so I have ordered a spare key and can now hopefully start engine!!!
All over the phone!!
 
Went to collect this vehicle yesterday. What a palava!!
Firstly on Dartmoor wind and rain was unbearable. Trailer at 8ft wide met with several 7ft 6 width restrictions and had to add 30 miles to the route.

Got wrong Farm entrance and had to reverse the damn thing about 1/2 mile down narrow track.

When finally arrived I was met by a 14 inch step off the road onto the track that led to the car. Had to abandon.

Maybe this L doesn't want to come and live here!!

Plan B is to return with the key when it arrives and a new battery and some scaffold boards and try and drive it out.

Didn't fancy getting stuck on Dartmoor with a hired trailer!!

Wife really enjoyed the day out. She walked to several farms to find the way and looked like she had jumped in the sea fully clothed!

Happy days but disappointing.
 
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