Freelander 1 L series and Nanocom

Trying to diagnose a 3 amigos on my 50th anniversary L series diesel. I have had a little read through and seen that the OBD can't be read by a standard reader. Can it be done by the nanocom? I have one set up for a P38, when I use the ODB vehicle selection, it can't recognise the car. Anyone had so.e experience with this?

I don't know about the nanocom, but there is a diagnostic unit available called a Pscan.eu which I believe covers most stuff on the Freelander 1.

I don't know if my Delphi DS150 will read it, but it might?

The Wabco system on the L series is pretty basic, so should pretty easy to diagnose the issue without a reader.

Thanks Nodge,

I'm pretty handy with a Fluke, just lazy and want to see if my nanocom is any use before I crawl around the car to diagnose the wheel sensors

No 'standard' ODBII dongle/comms will talk to my L Series ECU.

However, I have plugged in a 'standard' hand held device, that couldn't talk to the ECU, but would talk to the Wabco ABS ECU. Forget what it was and the member who I borrowed it off is no longer a member. Think it may have been a Foxwell or summat.

I'd have to take issue with Nodge about it being easy to diagnose the issue. Both times I've had the 3 Amigos it has been the shuttle valves, not sure how you'd diagnose this without a reader. Both times I've replaced the modulator with 1 from a breakers - the first replacement only lasted a couple of years.

I took mine along to the local LR indie garage for them to read the codes.

Agree with Nodge that summat like the @pscan.eu is a decent option if you want your own diag kit.

GrumpyGel said:

I'd have to take issue with Nodge about it being easy to diagnose the issue.

Click to expand...

Maybe I should have said it's easy to eliminate some items, like the wheel sensors and brake light switch.

Just another thought.

The Disco2 uses the same Wabco ABS. I dunno how similar the ABS ECUs are and their diagnostics.

GrumpyGel said:

Just another thought.

The Disco2 uses the same Wabco ABS. I dunno how similar the ABS ECUs are and their diagnostics.

Click to expand...

Programming would be different, but the modulator itself is probably the same. The shuttle valve mod for the D2 Wabco also works on the FL1 Wabco unit.

Nodge68 said:

Programming would be different, but the modulator itself is probably the same. The shuttle valve mod for the D2 Wabco also works on the FL1 Wabco unit.

Click to expand...

I've looked at that mod/fix a couple of times, looks a right palava.

I've got a couple of dead modulators in the garage now and you can buy replacement shuttle valve components - so my plan is to get 1 of those to have a working modulator ready for when the one in the car goes.

They've been sitting around for so long now though, that the other gubbins has probably seized/broke and won't work anyway!

Although I should probably get replacement shuttle valves to fit in the one in the car when they go - cos sod's law it will be just before the WOF (MOT) it goes and won't have time to get 1 shipped over.

A vote for the pscan - it reads all versions of FL1. Really helpful for diagnosing the reasons why the three amigos come out to play, and the telemetry it can provide is perfect for uncovering those annoying intermittent faults.

GrumpyGel said:

Just another thought.

The Disco2 uses the same Wabco ABS. I dunno how similar the ABS ECUs are and their diagnostics.

Click to expand...

Funny you mention this, I went to the scrap yard today and there was a TD5 disco 2 with the same type modulator and pump unit.

I didnt buy it because I wasnt sure but ive been through everything and it all checks out so must be the modulator.

Nodge68 said:

Programming would be different, but the modulator itself is probably the same. The shuttle valve mod for the D2 Wabco also works on the FL1 Wabco unit.

Click to expand...

Going on from my reply to Grumpy gel, does the wabco shuttle mod have a splice in to one of the cables on the multipin plug? The one on the disco 2 I found at the scrap yard looks like it has a red and black cable coming out of the shuttle valve.

monkfish24 said:

Funny you mention this, I went to the scrap yard today and there was a TD5 disco 1 with the same type modulator and pump unit.

I didnt buy it because I wasnt sure but ive been through everything and it all checks out so must be the modulator.



Going on from my reply to Grumpy gel, does the wabco shuttle mod have a splice in to one of the cables on the multipin plug? The one on the disco 2 I found at the scrap yard looks like it has a red and black cable coming out of the shuttle valve.

Click to expand...

Its ages since I looked at the shuttle valve mod. But I recall it involves running a wire(s) through a channel to somewhere. It looked a faff. I dunno if it fixes the problem, or simply turns off the 3 Amigos - very different results if you're needing your ABS or HDC to kick in.

I just did a search for the replacement shuttle valve part. Lots of hits at around £50 - but they all day Disco 2. I didn't dig to deep, but none mentioned Freelander. I dunno if it would be different or not.

GrumpyGel said:

Its ages since I looked at the shuttle valve mod. But I recall it involves running a wire(s) through a channel to somewhere. It looked a faff. I dunno if it fixes the problem, or simply turns off the 3 Amigos - very different results if you're needing your ABS or HDC to kick in.

I just did a search for the replacement shuttle valve part. Lots of hits at around £50 - but they all day Disco 2. I didn't dig to deep, but none mentioned Freelander. I dunno if it would be different or not.

Click to expand...

Thanks Grumpy, I'll take a look in to it, sent the car off to have its codes read today so will find out in the morning to see what's up definitively, hopefully!

I took it for a run to the garage earlier and it feels great to drive, less wallowy than my old K series. The L series isn't what I'd consider slow like some people reckon and I drive a mustang

monkfish24 said:

The L series isn't what I'd consider slow like some people reckon and I drive a mustang

Click to expand...

Have you lifted the bonnet to check it's still got the L Series?

The impression I have of mine is that its performance is fine once you're up to speed (eg overtaking), but off the lights you really have to push it hard to get any performance at all resembling anything other than slow.

I also find that once it starts running out of puff on hills, it really runs out of puff.