Knocking from rear offside

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
M

mudinuri

Active Member
Posts
692
Location
New Forest
Hi,
2000/2001 TD4S AUTOMATIC.
I"ve been getting an intermittent knocking from the rear offside. It sounds like there is something loose in the boot knocking against the side of the bodywork, but it aint that.
Today whilst turning on full lock in the car park it made a heck of a noise.
It normally only happens when I start off or when I turn slow corners.
Any ideas?
I thought it was a loose exhaust but I checked that out and it aint that. I also checked for anything else loose underneath but couldn"t see anything.
Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
 
sounds like it could be your diff mounts on the rear - common problem. also you should check your vcu.
 
Thanks for the answers, but
How do I check a) The Subframe mount. b) The Diff mounts and c) The VCU?
Is it a job I can do by scrambling underneath the car? and what am I looking for?
Any help would really be appreciated
 
mudinuri said:
Thanks for the answers, but
How do I check a) The Subframe mount. b) The Diff mounts and c) The VCU?
Is it a job I can do by scrambling underneath the car? and what am I looking for?
Any help would really be appreciated
Click to expand...

Sounds you best take it to a garage and ask them to check from this list. From your description it could be almost anything!
 
I did as The Mad Hat Man recommended and checked to see if there was a click when I inserted a crowbar between the front mounting bolt and the subframe, and yes it clicked.
I tried tightening the bolt but it wont budge.
Any ideas?
 
diff mounts problem could look like this
05385c77-01cd-4c7d-8134-17364cbac3fb_zps3c7f612f.jpg


but by your description it is probably the subframe mount
 
Last edited:
The mounting bolt goes through a tube that is only spot welded inside the chassis, and the weld is broken(very common) it cannot come apart but is rather annoying. What I did with mine was to jack up and take wheel off, cut open side of chassis so you can weld a couple of stitches on both ends of the tube in the chassis and then weld chassis closed again.
 
Hi BigRog,
Thanks for the advice. Unfortunately I dont have a Mig welder, would an arc welder be OK? or would it be too powerful and just make holes in the chassis?
 
Ah, I am lucky as I have a mig welder, a stick might do it if you can turn it down enough and get the appropriate sticks. It might be worth getting a quote to see how much it would cost to have it done professionally. Shouldn't take more than a hour.
 
You could try removing the interior carpet, around the area of the subframe bolt, then remove the small round sealed soft metal grommet cap, which will expose the end of the bolt(from inside the chasis leg)Get a torch in there and see if the chasis is cracked or if the captive bolt is in anyway broken away or maybe the support tube is pressed through. Some people take a can openner to the grommet hole and enlarge it to a 10 cm square hole, so that the damaged chasis can be plated up from the inside. Some people simply remove the old bolt, put a self made plate with a bolt hole drilled into it, inside the chasis leg without welding and then a new 12mm/14mm bolt through sub frame and secured with a nut on the top of the self made plate. (if that makes sense):scratching_chin:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Help!
Replies
6
Views
697
Alibro
Alibro
CptSeries3
Series 3 series 3 - Intermittent Starting Issue.
Replies
5
Views
1K
Rangieman123
Rangieman123
M
Which is Better Mark 1 or Mark 2
Replies
10
Views
592
Nodge68
Nodge68
BarcombeBoy
Freelander 1: interior lights flicker whilst driving. Rear door issue.
Replies
6
Views
1K
J_D
J_D
F
Very slow pulling from stop freelander 1 2.0 TD4 2006
2
Replies
26
Views
1K
teddywood1
teddywood1
Back
Top