P38A Key Problem...

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Doo

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So, call me daft, but I got a new key off ebay (guy supplies empty fob and blade cut using photo of original) and tried it in the door. It worked first time, so stupid here tries it in the ignition and the engine starts & runs...

Delighted, but wondered why it actually started, ran & kept running with this new key with no chip or leccy bits?

Anyway, locked her up (she's at my mates garage to get the airbags fitted) and left the original key for him.

He went to move it today and it wouldn't start, showing the message reprogramme key or some such.

DOH! :confused:

If stupid could fly, I'd be a jet :oops:

Anyway, he is very good mates with the local 4x4 legend, but my question is, how did this even happen and will it need plugged in to fix it?

The original key that my mechanic mate has still contains all the "bits" so I don't get it...
 
He probably just needs to re sync the old key, but god knows how the new on worked, p38 are run by wizardry so any thing is possible:)
 
brianp38dse said:
He probably just needs to re sync the old key, but god knows how the new on worked, p38 are run by wizardry so any thing is possible:)
Click to expand...

So I should just Harry Potter around with the electrics, lol :D

He'll likely ask the 4x4 legend to plug it in and get it told.

But I am amazed how it even started on the "blank" key then decided to dump the original program!?!?!
 
The car was locked using the key in the lock because the central locking has forgotten it's supposed to occasionally chat with the remote control, but it can wait as the car is currently awaiting new airbags. Bought the car recently after it sat for 3 years and had a battery flatter than a witches tit.

It is on the books as a 99 on an "X" reg with 86k and an FSH.

Funny, it started first turn of the key after all that time and always starts first time. However, it flagged up spurious faults until I put on a decent battery (as opposed to jump starting), SRS airbag fault (just once), ABS & TC, two or three times, window not set and something else I forget.

Runs on 6 or 7 cylinders on petrol, but smooth as on LPG (which I detest for it's valve murdering ways) so my initial thoughts of burnt valves are on hold and I am thinking petrol injector problem or plug fault, there have been sharp toothed critturs noshing their way under the bonnet, but as yet I haven't found any real wire damage, just foam with teeth marks.
 
Rover V8 on LPG doesn't suffer valve seat regression as bad as you think!

WIndows Not Set just tells you that you will need to cycle each window in turn fully down then back up again, hold switch until it says window set...then move on to the next....do the same for the sunroof

ABS and TC will remain lit until you drive forward....if it is a message on the dash, then that is usualy a low voltage issue.
 
I thought it was a voltage issue as it pretty much disappeared upon replacing the battery. Can't do all the windows as one switch is not working, again just contact problem through lack of use.

Mine is the BMW 4.0 engine and I did read they seem to be ok with LPG, but I need to find why she's missing a beat.

I will report all findings so others can benefit.

I wonder if I should strip her down, clean all electrical connections and put a breath of Vaseline around the seals to prevent further ingress of damp/moisture??

Is there any other way of stopping the myriad leccy faults on this motor??
 
Generally as long as the alternator is good and you stick something big like an MF31 battery or Optimax one then no problems, except maybe the odd fusebox burning out.

RF interference is main cause of battery drain.

Rough running: are the wires into the injectors all good? They can get a bit brittle and delicate.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Bosch / BMW. All german!
Click to expand...
True....but just cos the ecu and the ignition system was Bosch doesnt make it a BMW.

Bosch gear is abound on many marques.

The THOR engine came about during BMW ownership, and they made changes to the inlet manifolds, control ecu and a few tweaks here and there, but it is certainly not a BMW engine.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Generally as long as the alternator is good and you stick something big like an MF31 battery or Optimax one then no problems, except maybe the odd fusebox burning out.

RF interference is main cause of battery drain.

Rough running: are the wires into the injectors all good? They can get a bit brittle and delicate.
Click to expand...

Well, since it runs nice on the LPG, that would make sense that a wire could be the culprit, I had an inkling, so I'll check.

How can I screen the system from RF interference? Someone must have come up with a fix?!

As for not being BMW engine, that's a relief...I think :confused:

The alternator must be good as the original battery was super gubbed, but jump started, drove several miles and ran ok, clearly only on alternator output as there wasn't enough to start the engine after 8 miles, just a click.

So, much fun to be had. Just as well I know my way around a car, my mate is LR trained and one of the work mechanics is also ex LR, so between all of us we should be able to shake a stick at her :p
 
You'll need to download a copy of RAVE if you haven't already.

RF interference: there's a "pull your trousers down and get seriously arse-raped by Land Rover" fix or BrianDSE second fob trick for a fiver. Your choice, obiously. :)
 
Only real solution for the RF issue is either a mk3 rf unit, but they are getting rare and expensive now.....or someone on here did a mod using another remote unit and a relay.....

I am sure others will point you in the direction of who has done this mod and who came up with it as I forget!
 
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