P38A key/ignition barrel sync

Hi
Never really noticed, but if you don't start within 30s of unlocking, the engine is immobilised. Putting the key in the ignition is supposed to reactivate things, but not for me.
Normally I'll start up straight away, but if i don't, when i turn the key i get Engine Immobilised on the dash, sometimes only for part of a second then it will start, other times i have to press the fob again.
Is this simply because the RF antenna is unplugged? Or something on its last legs, bad connection etc?
Cheers

kermit_rr said:

Hi
Never really noticed, but if you don't start within 30s of unlocking, the engine is immobilised. Putting the key in the ignition is supposed to reactivate things, but not for me.
Normally I'll start up straight away, but if i don't, when i turn the key i get Engine Immobilised on the dash, sometimes only for part of a second then it will start, other times i have to press the fob again.
Is this simply because the RF antenna is unplugged? Or something on its last legs, bad connection etc?
Cheers

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What year is your car? If your car has the passive coil round the ignition switch, then it is certainly due to the antenna being unplugged.
Get the EKA and immobiliser turned off in the BECM with Nanocom and you will have no more problems. The alarm will still work.

It's a 2000.
I tried leaving the antenna plugged in but that's a battery killer.
Nanocom is the next purchase on my to-do list, cheers

The alarm doesn't work anyways, presume the siren has died, indicators flash but no noise

kermit_rr said:

The alarm doesn't work anyways, presume the siren has died, indicators flash but no noise

Click to expand...

Internal battery usually fails on the alarm sounder. There maybe someone near you that could turn off EKA and the immobiliser for you.

Datatek said:

Internal battery usually fails on the alarm sounder. There maybe someone near you that could turn off EKA and the immobiliser for you.

Click to expand...

Not big on my priority list but is the battery replaceable if i found something the right size and voltage?
Need to find someone with a nano for sale! It does sound like something my garage shouldn't be without while i own a p38

kermit_rr said:

Not big on my priority list but is the battery replaceable if i found something the right size and voltage?
Need to find someone with a nano for sale! It does sound like something my garage shouldn't be without while i own a p38

Click to expand...

The sounder battery is replaceable with a soldering iron, but you are likely to find the area around the battery is corroded to hell. The battery has a life expectancy of 8 to 10 years.

Datatek said:

The sounder battery is replaceable with a soldering iron, but you are likely to find the area around the battery is corroded to hell. The battery has a life expectancy of 8 to 10 years.

Click to expand...

It can continue to complain in silence

Marty does a filtered RF box which you can plug in and won’t drain like original. Dan has one.
Don’t bother buying any of the different colour dot RF units, none of them work properly (I have early blue disconnected), plus many ones for sale have coloured sticker on an earlier version.

They're quite expensive though, aren't they? Is it really worth it if i can get the immobilizer disabled?

The fact I just have mine unplugged gives you my answer
This way I still have an immobiliser too

Mine doesn’t ask me for EKA if I don’t put key in ignition either early system on has differences though

Mine never asks for eka. Never needed it even when the battery had been off for months

I’m mixing something up.

I only had engine immobilised once at petrol station. I pressed the keys on fob while in ignition and it went away.

Turning immobilisation off in nanocom is actually the passive immobilisation, ie will turn off the 30 second immobilisation, not the EKA lockout/ general immobilisation. You can remove the battery without triggering the need for an EKA code if the car is unlocked ie you're not stealing it, on the other hand letting the battery go flat in a locked car (stealing it) will lead to a request for an EKA code.
Later cars have the coil on the ignition switch which cause the key fob to transmit - hence you need an antenna of some sort to then pass the signal to the becm. Don't you normally use the buttons on the fob (ie doesn't your current set-up work at some level), or you just open the doors on a key? Your ignition coil could also be toast, or the key fob is not transmitting a signal the becm recognises as valid (but if the fob transmits in normal use this is a non-issue)
Re alarms that don't sound - could be turned off in becm, or mine came with the sounder unplugged (under the engine-bay fuse box)

Yes i normally unlock with the fob and start within 30s so not a big issue. I'm not sure whether the coil works or not but if i get the 30s thing turned off then problem gone
Edit: just didn't want to get further down the line and find something breaks completely that means I'm stuck

As noted above, get someone with a Nanocom to turn off the passive immobilisation for you, no more problems then.

Any offers?? Anyone??

I’ll be in your part of the world in three months time, but that might be a littler long for you to wait

There’s only so many I know have the 4.0.
Told you about domino before, there’s you

.... I forget the rest