P38A key/ignition barrel sync

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kermit_rr

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Hi
Never really noticed, but if you don't start within 30s of unlocking, the engine is immobilised. Putting the key in the ignition is supposed to reactivate things, but not for me.
Normally I'll start up straight away, but if i don't, when i turn the key i get Engine Immobilised on the dash, sometimes only for part of a second then it will start, other times i have to press the fob again.
Is this simply because the RF antenna is unplugged? Or something on its last legs, bad connection etc?
Cheers
 
Hi
Never really noticed, but if you don't start within 30s of unlocking, the engine is immobilised. Putting the key in the ignition is supposed to reactivate things, but not for me.
Normally I'll start up straight away, but if i don't, when i turn the key i get Engine Immobilised on the dash, sometimes only for part of a second then it will start, other times i have to press the fob again.
Is this simply because the RF antenna is unplugged? Or something on its last legs, bad connection etc?
Cheers
What year is your car? If your car has the passive coil round the ignition switch, then it is certainly due to the antenna being unplugged.
Get the EKA and immobiliser turned off in the BECM with Nanocom and you will have no more problems. The alarm will still work.
 
Internal battery usually fails on the alarm sounder. There maybe someone near you that could turn off EKA and the immobiliser for you.
Not big on my priority list but is the battery replaceable if i found something the right size and voltage?
Need to find someone with a nano for sale! It does sound like something my garage shouldn't be without while i own a p38
 
Not big on my priority list but is the battery replaceable if i found something the right size and voltage?
Need to find someone with a nano for sale! It does sound like something my garage shouldn't be without while i own a p38
The sounder battery is replaceable with a soldering iron, but you are likely to find the area around the battery is corroded to hell. The battery has a life expectancy of 8 to 10 years.
 
Marty does a filtered RF box which you can plug in and won’t drain like original. Dan has one.
Don’t bother buying any of the different colour dot RF units, none of them work properly (I have early blue disconnected), plus many ones for sale have coloured sticker on an earlier version.
 
Turning immobilisation off in nanocom is actually the passive immobilisation, ie will turn off the 30 second immobilisation, not the EKA lockout/ general immobilisation. You can remove the battery without triggering the need for an EKA code if the car is unlocked ie you're not stealing it, on the other hand letting the battery go flat in a locked car (stealing it) will lead to a request for an EKA code.
Later cars have the coil on the ignition switch which cause the key fob to transmit - hence you need an antenna of some sort to then pass the signal to the becm. Don't you normally use the buttons on the fob (ie doesn't your current set-up work at some level), or you just open the doors on a key? Your ignition coil could also be toast, or the key fob is not transmitting a signal the becm recognises as valid (but if the fob transmits in normal use this is a non-issue)
Re alarms that don't sound - could be turned off in becm, or mine came with the sounder unplugged (under the engine-bay fuse box)
 
Yes i normally unlock with the fob and start within 30s so not a big issue. I'm not sure whether the coil works or not but if i get the 30s thing turned off then problem gone
Edit: just didn't want to get further down the line and find something breaks completely that means I'm stuck
 
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