P38A Key advice for Duchess

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Flossie

Flossie

Well-Known Member
Posts
10,671
Location
Shropshire
She shamed herself this morning, got engine disabled and press fob message so no start. Quick panic to refit the battery which was on charge to the 110 to get the Doris to work.
She made it to work on time so all good there.
Back story.
Went out all day yesterday in Duchess, probably 8 engine restarts, no problems at all.
Duchess came with 3 keys but only one worked the central locking, the other 2 lit up the dash but I don't think I had tried starting her with those 2. Anywhoo, as I knew I would be sitting in Duchess waiting for the Doris to come back from various appointments I thought I would take the 2 spare keys with me and try them. Both of the 2 started Duchess so I guessed new batteries would fix the non functioning central locking on those 2.
I must have mixed up which key I normally use because when I've just got back in the 110 and tried the key which works the central locking she fired up as normal, happy days.
I'm confused as to why the other 2 started her up yesterday but wouldn't this morning. I did notice the led on the 'good' key flashed when inserted in the ignition switch, the other 2 don't, don't know if they did yesterday though.
I did buy a fob repair kit when Duchess was having her restoration but I now can't find it.
Will new batteries sort the issue on these 2 spare keys or are they just needed for the remote central locking and I have faulty fobs that need specialist repair?
To add.
I can disconnect/connect the vehicle battery with no issues, don't need to enter EKA, recode the radio or owt.
That has probably been disabled by a former owner.
I don't have the EKA code either.
 
The LED on the FOB should flash when inserted in the ignition which is the auto re-sync on post 99 cars. The rolling code will be out of kilter on a FOB that has been unused for some time, maybe there was just enough life in the FOB battery to re-sync but other than that I really do not know.
 
Cheers Keith.
Just this very minute found the fob repair kit I had mis laid and going to search for a how- to.
Update later:)
 
If one of the keys is a clone it will knock the rolling code out of sync on its twin. Sometimes it needs opening with the good key on the fob before it will resync the other key(s), possibly using the key in lock method. Failing that, clearing RF memory using Nanocom can help.
 
Update..
I'm confused lol!
Right, I've got 3 keys.
Key 1 that I've been using, remote CL works, no issues with engine disabled messages .

Key 2 and 3 both started the car yesterday (although I'm doubtful now..)
Key 2 is the one that flashed up engine immobilized this morning.
I decided to fit the fob refurb kit to this one.
No difference, no remote locking, red led doesn't flash, won't sync, engine immobilized but it will unlock the doors using the keyhole.
Just got key 3 out and that now works perfectly, same as key 1.
Clutching at straws I guess but maybe, possibly I never actually tested key 2 yesterday , maybe I got muddled with which keys I tested and never tested key 2 but retested key 3..
I cant see I've done that but it's a remote(sorry) possibility.
So! I have 2 good keys that do everything and 1 that will just manually unlock the doors and turn the dash on, no start, no remote CL with this one.
Two working keys is the norm but now I'm thinking three would be nice.
Is there a specialist that could fix key 2 ?
To add
One of the keys has number 3 on a sticker on the rear of the fob, think I've read somewhere that that would be a LR supplied spare (because key 2 was dead maybe?)
 
Flossie said:
Update..
I'm confused lol!
Right, I've got 3 keys.
Key 1 that I've been using, remote CL works, no issues with engine disabled messages .

Key 2 and 3 both started the car yesterday (although I'm doubtful now..)
Key 2 is the one that flashed up engine immobilized this morning.
I decided to fit the fob refurb kit to this one.
No difference, no remote locking, red led doesn't flash, won't sync, engine immobilized but it will unlock the doors using the keyhole.
Just got key 3 out and that now works perfectly, same as key 1.
Clutching at straws I guess but maybe, possibly I never actually tested key 2 yesterday , maybe I got muddled with which keys I tested and never tested key 2 but retested key 3..
I cant see I've done that but it's a remote(sorry) possibility.
So! I have 2 good keys that do everything and 1 that will just manually unlock the doors and turn the dash on, no start, no remote CL with this one.
Two working keys is the norm but now I'm thinking three would be nice.
Is there a specialist that could fix key 2 ?
To add
One of the keys has number 3 on a sticker on the rear of the fob, think I've read somewhere that that would be a LR supplied spare (because key 2 was dead maybe?)
Click to expand...

Classic Rides North Wales have a good reputation on here and also MrSporty.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Classic Rides North Wales have a good reputation on here and also MrSporty.[/QUOTE
Yeah, heard of them.
Update update..o_O

Just run my lad to work, took all 3 keys with me and when I got back home I tried all 3 and all 3 start the car!
Its looking like that if she's started with a good key first then the 'bad' key will start it too maybe it's only when immediately after shutting her down, left overnight, like last night, I'll get the engine disabled message again, using the 'bad' key.
I'll play tomorrow:D or I might try in a couple of hours when I fetch the Doris from work.
Click to expand...
 
Flossie said:
Update..
I'm confused lol!
Right, I've got 3 keys.
Key 1 that I've been using, remote CL works, no issues with engine disabled messages .

Key 2 and 3 both started the car yesterday (although I'm doubtful now..)
Key 2 is the one that flashed up engine immobilized this morning.
I decided to fit the fob refurb kit to this one.
No difference, no remote locking, red led doesn't flash, won't sync, engine immobilized but it will unlock the doors using the keyhole.
Just got key 3 out and that now works perfectly, same as key 1.
Clutching at straws I guess but maybe, possibly I never actually tested key 2 yesterday , maybe I got muddled with which keys I tested and never tested key 2 but retested key 3..
I cant see I've done that but it's a remote(sorry) possibility.
So! I have 2 good keys that do everything and 1 that will just manually unlock the doors and turn the dash on, no start, no remote CL with this one.
Two working keys is the norm but now I'm thinking three would be nice.
Is there a specialist that could fix key 2 ?
To add
One of the keys has number 3 on a sticker on the rear of the fob, think I've read somewhere that that would be a LR supplied spare (because key 2 was dead maybe?)
Click to expand...
So the LED doesn't flash when you press the buttons? If so, quite likely just a bad battery connection which is a common problem.
 
I thought p38`s came with 3 keys, key 1 and 2 would start the car and the third key was the valet key so they could open it to clean ect but not start it.
 
brianp38dse said:
I thought p38`s came with 3 keys, key 1 and 2 would start the car and the third key was the valet key so they could open it to clean ect but not start it.
Click to expand...
Key 3 was as far as I know an option, it supposedly will not operate lazy seats etc but will lock/unlock and start the car. Never had a key 3 so cannot be sure.
 
Datatek said:
Key 3 was as far as I know an option, it supposedly will not operate lazy seats etc but will lock/unlock and start the car. Never had a key 3 so cannot be sure.
Click to expand...

I have only ever had two keys and that is down to one after the misses lost her enormous bunch of keys:rolleyes: i must get a spare, can you get away with just the key blade with eka and immobilizer turned off.
 
brianp38dse said:
I have only ever had two keys and that is down to one after the misses lost her enormous bunch of keys:rolleyes: i must get a spare, can you get away with just the key blade with eka and immobilizer turned off.
Click to expand...
Yes, just the key blade works fine with EKA and immobiliser off, I had no working FOB for my project car when I got it so it was always the blade.
However, the actuating arm on the end of the lock barrel is fragile and not designed for constant use, it broke off after a while so I had to replace the lock barrel and get a FOB working.
 
Datatek said:
Yes, just the key blade works fine with EKA and immobiliser off, I had no working FOB for my project car when I got it so it was always the blade.
However, the actuating arm on the end of the lock barrel is fragile and not designed for constant use, it broke off after a while so I had to replace the lock barrel and get a FOB working.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that i will get a key cut asap so at least i have a get out of jail free card:)
 
Datatek said:
So the LED doesn't flash when you press the buttons? If so, quite likely just a bad battery connection which is a common problem.
Click to expand...
On the 'bad' key, no but does on the other 2 good ones.
I started her up after she sat for 2 1/2hrs with the bad key, no issues.
Just been out to play with the fobs in the dark(8pm) and the two good fobs LEDs light up and lock/unlock the CL but then got intermittent.
I never lock her up at home and it's hardly ever left unattended when out.
Im going to try the new batteries in the 'bad' fob in one of the good fobs to see if the remote CL works more reliably. Tried it by the rear window too but no better, nowt unplugged on the RF receiver. I remember when I first got her which wasn't that long ago, August I think, and it would remotely lock from miles away.
 
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