K series direct to head throttles

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Okay so they went slightly over budget, and i put a bid in anyway... and i got them!
WOOHOOOO

Cannot wait to these babys fitted to my K series. Should add a few more ponies at least and add a nice rumble to the acoustics :D

Mind you, i shan't be going wading with these :eek:
 
Is there clearance to the bulkhead? (Visualises my Caterham's engine bay then my Freelander's - the throttles will be on the back of the engine, the exhaust down the front for a K series?)

You'll need a bigger vent to keep the intake air cool, and a new rad.

Given a suitable exhaust and a new ECU then 180 bhp is on the cards with big cams, but peak torque will be around 6krpm.
 
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phlebas said:
Is there clearance to the bulkhead? (Visualises my Caterham's engine bay then my Freelander's - the throttles will be on the back of the engine, the exhaust down the front for a K series?)

You'll need a bigger vent to keep the intake air cool, and a new rad.

Given a suitable exhaust and a new ECU then 180 bhp is on the cards with big cams, but peak torque will be around 6krpm.
Click to expand...

There should be plenty of clearance to the bulkhead, i shan't be fitting big trumpets to them.

I've a top mounted scoop so should get enough air to the back of the bay. How come you mentioned the rad? What's the reason behind this?

I've already a custom exhaust, don't want to change cams too drastically though.

All i've got to do now is pay for them, PayPal is being a BITCH and refusing my payment!
 
Once you start talking 160bhp+ Caterhams tend to struggle on the cooling and the nearly 4" thick multipass rad is usually used; and that's with rather more straight forward airflow than a Freelander; the 1.8k series in 138bhp tune almost never overheats in the Caterham installation - I gather it has a reputation in Freelander installation (though maybe not a bad as the MGF).

At very least I'd thinking about a nice clean new standard part; but if you intend to use the power a more capable rad.

The second issue with standard is that the air flow though the rad continues through the engine bay, then over and under the body. This means your trumpets will be in radiator warmed air.

The get round both issues I'd suggest finding a large, fairly square radiator that can handle engines round 200bhp (V8 Range Rover?) and mounting it parallel to the bonnet; fan blowing up and either a big holes, or many rear facing louvres.

This will give you cold airflow in though the grill to the trumpets some going down and out under the vehicle, some going through the bonnet mounted rad and over the vehicle (bonus the windscreen should de-mist quite qucikly!).

A rule of thumb shorter trumpets will give a higher rev torque peak; this isn't likely to be ideal in a Freelander chassis.

I suppose there is a third option of extending the throttle stop so the butterflies never get fully opened. That way you can probably get by with the standard injectors/ECU setup and get more noise without more power. Never heared of it being done though.
 
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Thanks phlebas for the advice, i'm going to do some front grill modifications in the near future to help the rad a bit more, i'll see how i get on after that.

Apart from that, what else will i need to carry out the installation? It looks like fuel rail, injectors and coolant connectors are all in place. Some ones mentioned a fuel pressure regulator? Is this important.

Looking at Emerald ECU's as we speak so the ECU will be replaced too.
 
You wont need to touch the rad, it's fitted to all the FL1 including KV6 with 172hp output.

The rad is twice the size of any found in an MGF or kit car

a 4-2-1 exhaust manifold will free up any gas flow
 
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