Just when i thought it .......

Are you plating over the top or cutting out the rot and replacing with seemed in fresh metal

Cavey_P38 said:

Mot due in june.

Would have but i was boxed in tbe workshop by a variety of farm kit and had only started on one job and it has kinda escalated...

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Thats how it starts, but while it still has wheels on it, get it washed to check for other bad areas. You will need to clean it anyway for the test? Also, make sure you take it back to the same MOT station.

mick the builder said:

Thats how it starts, but while it still has wheels on it, get it washed to check for other bad areas. You will need to clean it anyway for the test? Also, make sure you take it back to the same MOT station.

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Would that be the one Stevie Wonder works at

Vehicle has had a busy shooting season, lots of mud and think it was last used by the cattle yards and cattle muck spread on the grass fields with no wash off and as turboman will confirm cow muck is very bad for your vehicle

It went on the ramp mid jan and one job has kinda let to another, afraid it doesnt get a lot of TLC between august and january other than a wash off, which it has unfortunately skipped this time.

Cut back to good metal and then plated with some offcuts of stainless steel plate, plan is to underseal i think then get MOT,look to revisit it with either rear x member or poss part or whole chassis in 2017. Once i have savedsome pennies

No his brother Blind bob,

He passed the missus golf yesterdsy

Cavey_P38 said:

Vehicle has had a busy shooting season, lots of mud and think it was last used by the cattle yards and cattle muck spread on the grass fields with no wash off and as turboman will confirm cow muck is very bad for your vehicle

It went on the ramp mid jan and one job has kinda let to another, afraid it doesnt get a lot of TLC between august and january other than a wash off, which it has unfortunately skipped this time.

Cut back to good metal and then plated with some offcuts of stainless steel plate, plan is to underseal i think then get MOT,look to revisit it with either rear x member or poss part or whole chassis in 2017. Once i have savedsome pennies

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Underseal will make it worse. Traps moisture, it rusts underneath.
If you want that to last, you need to do what we have suggested. Paint or waxoyl applied carefully to well prepped outside, Lots of clean oil or dinitrol inside.
Sump oil is no good, lots of acid and water in it, and it doesnt stick on.

Thanks for that, i have always used waste oil.... Doh !!

Re the inside Will get some new oil, does it matter what sort...
Waxoyl it is then or some paint.. For the outside

This was mine...





I don't know what you've plated it with but it doesn't look very thick from your photos

Cavey_P38 said:

Thanks for that, i have always used waste oil.... Doh !!

Re the inside Will get some new oil, does it matter what sort...
Waxoyl it is then or some paint.. For the outside

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Used gear oil is quite good for the inside, reasonably sticky and no acids. I sprayed five litres of Dinitrol in each leg of mine. Waxoyl is ok, must be spotless before application. Paint is much better. I have 2 coats corroless, 2 black enamel. Some prefer zinc rich, or etch primer and topcoat.
Here are some pics of my chassis, 27 years old, 128k. almost no welds, You can see clearly there is no bare metal anywhere, and it is reasonably clean. Use your own preferred methods, but get that effect, it will last for years.

No idea on thickness, can have a measure on friday.

Yours looks a very though proper job, mine is def more of a stop gap measure, think going to need to a proper job later in the year or hooefully this time nxt would be better. So i can save the money and plan it get organised etc etc.

And spend lots of time on here researching what to do,

Have the space so maybe a new chassis get some different axles and recon them and get the rolling chassiss sorted pre taking mine to bits..


Mmmmh could do an engine upgrade at same time to 200 tdi etc...


Bu@@er now, you lot have got me thinking....

Need to work on your parking!

It wasn't so much of a stop gap more of what's safe, plating over a rotten chassis isn't worth the time or effort

That amount of rust hasn't happened in a single year just because a couple of washes were missed that rust has been well on the go for a good while IMO.

Turboman said:

Used gear oil is quite good for the inside, reasonably sticky and no acids. I sprayed five litres of Dinitrol in each leg of mine. Waxoyl is ok, must be spotless before application. Paint is much better. I have 2 coats corroless, 2 black enamel. Some prefer zinc rich, or etch primer and topcoat.
Here are some pics of my chassis, 27 years old, 128k. almost no welds, You can see clearly there is no bare metal anywhere, and it is reasonably clean. Use your own preferred methods, but get that effect, it will last for years.

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Why does waxoyl have to be applied to scrupulously clean surfaces?
With my X member I jet washed it out thoroughly then let it dry then blasted loads of waxoyl into the box section bit - I wasn't able to paint or get in to clean it anymore than with the jet wash due to the nature of the small box section. Will that be okay or will it rust away under the waxoyl/dinitrol mix?

Ed

flat said:

That amount of rust hasn't happened in a single year just because a couple of washes were missed that rust has been well on the go for a good while IMO.



Why does waxoyl have to be applied to scrupulously clean surfaces?
With my X member I jet washed it out thoroughly then let it dry then blasted loads of waxoyl into the box section bit - I wasn't able to paint or get in to clean it anymore than with the jet wash due to the nature of the small box section. Will that be okay or will it rust away under the waxoyl/dinitrol mix?

Ed

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I think it will be better than nothing. And no, I dont think it will rust too much underneath.

Because waxoyl and dinitrol and similar products contain rust stabilisers it should actually slow the rust. Underseal doesnt, it is just a waterproof-ish coating!
As you say, inside, you can only do your best and hope for the best. My memory is the inside should be treated with a waxoyl type substance at the factory, so I always hope the new stuff will add to it, maybe soften up the original stuff again as well. Endoscope is good for checking inside the sections.

I did all the painting of my chassis despite the fact there was little or no existing rust. I dont really look on it as restoration, I look on it as completing the job that landrover should have done when they built the vehicle.

When my MOT expires in the autumn, I am going to take it of the road for a fortnight, remove the roof and tub, rub down, wash and repaint the chassis again. I dont think there is a problem, but I want to give it a real good once over, change some rusty cappings, and make sure that all important coating on the chassis is in tip top condition.

Cavey_P38 said:

No idea on thickness, can have a measure on friday.

Yours looks a very though proper job, mine is def more of a stop gap measure, think going to need to a proper job later in the year or hooefully this time nxt would be better. So i can save the money and plan it get organised etc etc.

And spend lots of time on here researching what to do,

Have the space so maybe a new chassis get some different axles and recon them and get the rolling chassiss sorted pre taking mine to bits..


Mmmmh could do an engine upgrade at same time to 200 tdi etc...


Bu@@er now, you lot have got me thinking....

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Think you are on the right track with that as regards the chassis. What you are doing will buy time, and get you an MOT.
But to do a thorough job, you really need a week or two, to allow for all the paint coats drying etc.
And as you say, you can get all the bits ready and the funds, it is more of a pleasure to do these jobs when you are all set up for it.

Cheers bud,

yeah def need it back in use got about 40 pheasant feeders still out that need collating and reducing in number quite a lot I cant get to with a tractor n trailer.

that is more and more my thinking today whilst working, and watching the flying scotsman come through>>

( Hats off to the Helo pilot he was chuffin amazing)

think get MOT and then save funds Buy a chassis and that gives me time to prep and paint it, get a couple of axles and refurb them so it is rolling then take 90 off the road this time next year strip the panels off and get them painted etc

also gives me time to consider an engine swap etc.

Thanks for all the input re the chassis from the members mechanical stuff more my bag.

least I now know hoe to prolong the next one..

Cavey_P38 said:

Cheers bud,

yeah def need it back in use got about 40 pheasant feeders still out that need collating and reducing in number quite a lot I cant get to with a tractor n trailer.

that is more and more my thinking today whilst working, and watching the flying scotsman come through>>

( Hats off to the Helo pilot he was chuffin amazing)

think get MOT and then save funds Buy a chassis and that gives me time to prep and paint it, get a couple of axles and refurb them so it is rolling then take 90 off the road this time next year strip the panels off and get them painted etc

also gives me time to consider an engine swap etc.

Thanks for all the input re the chassis from the members mechanical stuff more my bag.

least I now know hoe to prolong the next one..

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Thats good! You need a plan with this stuff, get it all worked out and sorted out, then have a good session on it and do a lasting job. Not the sort of thing you can rush through before filling the feeders again!

Most will need re chassis sooner or later, but it is quite expensive and troublesome. A rush job might buy you three years, a quality repair and coating job might buy you twenty. Dont worry about all the products too much, some favour primer and paint, some favour zinc primer, for the inside some like Waxoyl, some like Dinitol, Some like Bildt Hamber, some like gear oil. Go with preference and pocket, main thing is to get a thick waterproof coating outside, and something rust resistant all over inside.

Thanks for posting about it anyway, after a sleepless night wondering if there was mud on my chassis, I got the hot washer out this avo and washed it up spotless!

Will do mine next week once I have got round the game keeping jobs as it will be even worse then, need to paint and dry the repairs first

Cavey_P38 said:

Will do mine next week once I have got round the game keeping jobs as it will be even worse then, need to paint and dry the repairs first

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I partly got the idea of doing this from a farm where I used to work years ago. They liked old kit, and had quite a lot of old stuff including a Series 2. It was used on the farm, by father and two sons, nobodys car, but did farm work and picking up stuff.
Every year the three of them lifted of the whole body in sections, and they rubbed down and painted the chassis. Must have been twenty coats thick, they had had it since new!

I am pretty lazy, did mine inside and out in 2009, aint really looked at it since! Wiill have a ggod look in the autumn, though!