jump start issue

mickbrr · Feb 16, 2020

hi all,
I hope there is someone here who can help me with this issue so I know where to look....I have a range rover sport 2.7lt 2006. due to a driving ban last year I put my truck in the garage for 12 months. Upon opening up and trying to start it I found that the battery was flat, therefor I got a big tractor battery around the same size and connected it up via jump leads.....I turned the key and something went pop ? a fuse perhaps ?.....if the donor battery was to powerful what have I blown ?.....there are no lights coming on when I turn the key now.....I have took the battery off to recharge it however I don't think its going to be as simple as that as the pop noise didn't sound right....can any1 tell me the damage I may have done and where I should focus my investigations first off.....the only fuse that's seems to be blown is a 10amp diesel EMS ….I was told to check the main fuse an that they think its a yellow 60amp but this one is ok....any help or pointers lads....my battery was totally flatt so is charging as I write

tomcat59alan · Feb 16, 2020

Bad contact with the jump leads ? Check your handbook for the jump start procedure.

mickbrr · Feb 16, 2020

tomcat59alan said:
Bad contact with the jump leads ? Check your handbook for the jump start procedure.

would that create a sort of crack/pop noise though Alan ?

Datatek · Feb 16, 2020

mickbrr said:
hi all,
I hope there is someone here who can help me with this issue so I know where to look....I have a range rover sport 2.7lt 2006. due to a driving ban last year I put my truck in the garage for 12 months. Upon opening up and trying to start it I found that the battery was flat, therefor I got a big tractor battery around the same size and connected it up via jump leads.....I turned the key and something went pop ? a fuse perhaps ?.....if the donor battery was to powerful what have I blown ?.....there are no lights coming on when I turn the key now.....I have took the battery off to recharge it however I don't think its going to be as simple as that as the pop noise didn't sound right....can any1 tell me the damage I may have done and where I should focus my investigations first off.....the only fuse that's seems to be blown is a 10amp diesel EMS ….I was told to check the main fuse an that they think its a yellow 60amp but this one is ok....any help or pointers lads....my battery was totally flatt so is charging as I write

Was the tractor battery 12 volt or 24 volt?
As long as the battery was 12 volt, it cannot be "too powerful"
Did you get the + to + and - to -?
Did you connect the jump leads to the points stated in the owners manual?
If you battery has stood for 12 months, you most probably wasting your time trying to charge it, Lead/Calcium batteries do not often recover from a fully discharged state.

kermit_rr · Feb 16, 2020

Was it a 12v tractor battery?

tomcat59alan · Feb 16, 2020

mickbrr said:
would that create a sort of crack/pop noise though Alan ?

When the jump leads are put under load and there is a bad connection then yes, usually accompanied by sparks.

Datatek · Feb 16, 2020

tomcat59alan said:
When the jump leads are put under load and there is a bad connection then yes, usually accompanied by sparks.

and a popping noise

kermit_rr · Feb 16, 2020

tomcat59alan said:
When the jump leads are put under load and there is a bad connection then yes, usually accompanied by sparks.

Or if they are more suited to a 1 litre Corsa, at best you'll melt them, at worst of they are very poor quality then bad connections in the clamps could go pop

mickbrr · Feb 16, 2020

Datatek said:
Was the tractor battery 12 volt or 24 volt?
As long as the battery was 12 volt, it cannot be "too powerful"
Did you get the + to + and - to -?
Did you connect the jump leads to the points stated in the owners manual?
If you battery has stood for 12 months, you most probably wasting your time trying to charge it, Lead/Calcium batteries do not often recover from a fully discharged state.

yes it was a 12volt tractor batt 105 amp hrs, the one on my truck is 95 amp hrs that's the only difference in the batts, and yes I double checked the polarity and all correct, the only difference was in the handbook it says to put the negative to an engine mount however this wasn't possible so I put it to the batt negetive

mickbrr · Feb 16, 2020

kermit_rr said:
Or if they are more suited to a 1 litre Corsa, at best you'll melt them, at worst of they are very poor quality then bad connections in the clamps could go pop

no the leads are a good heavy duty set....not ya halford meltaways

Datatek · Feb 16, 2020

mickbrr said:
yes it was a 12volt tractor batt 105 amp hrs, the one on my truck is 95 amp hrs that's the only difference in the batts, and yes I double checked the polarity and all correct, the only difference was in the handbook it says to put the negative to an engine mount however this wasn't possible so I put it to the batt negetive

There is a good reason for connecting the negative to the engine, but unlikely to cause damage not doing so.
The car battery may be so fecked that it pulled the tractor battery voltage down.

tomcat59alan · Feb 16, 2020

mickbrr said:
yes it was a 12volt tractor batt 105 amp hrs, the one on my truck is 95 amp hrs that's the only difference in the batts, and yes I double checked the polarity and all correct, the only difference was in the handbook it says to put the negative to an engine mount however this wasn't possible so I put it to the batt negetive

Think you need the Yankie J**p sh1te forum if you insist on calling it a truck mate.

kermit_rr · Feb 16, 2020

Datatek said:
There is a good reason for connecting the negative to the engine,

Boom

mickbrr · Feb 16, 2020

Datatek said:
There is a good reason for connecting the negative to the engine, but unlikely to cause damage not doing so.
The car battery may be so fecked that it pulled the tractor battery voltage down.

it was flatt like and making the starter click however ive had the battery checked and its fine and green light has come on the charger to show its fully charged now

mickbrr · Feb 16, 2020

tomcat59alan said:
Think you need the Yankie J**p sh1te forum if you insist on calling it a truck mate.

its mine an his name is truck....now shhhhhhhhush…..you might offend him when he gets a charged batt an not start....

Datatek · Feb 17, 2020

mickbrr said:
it was flatt like and making the starter click however ive had the battery checked and its fine and green light has come on the charger to show its fully charged now

The green light as you call it does not mean the battery is OK, you say the battery was tested, was that a drop test?

kermit_rr · Feb 17, 2020

Datatek said:
The green light as you call it does not mean the battery is OK, you say the battery was tested, was that a drop test?

I drop tested a battery once, the case split and all the acid spilled out. I'll not drop from such a height next time

Datatek · Feb 17, 2020

kermit_rr said:
I drop tested a battery once, the case split and all the acid spilled out. I'll not drop from such a height next time

mickbrr · Feb 17, 2020

green light says its fully charged and it was taken to my dads m8 who has a garage and tested and they said it was ok and its only 3yr old

Datatek said:
The green light as you call it does not mean the battery is OK, you say the battery was tested, was that a drop test?

actually ive just checked an the battery is now 7 yrs old so i think its time for a new if i have any more issues with this one

mozz smith · Feb 17, 2020

mickbrr said:
would that create a sort of crack/pop noise though Alan ?

alan crack --pop ???? no snap or le = (crack-le ) ??? mmm im off for my cereals and toast !!! back later !!!! sorry.

jump start issue

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