Disco 3 (LR3) Juddering 30mph+

johnlad said:

Revs bouncing due to worn torque converter

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that’s what i’m also thinking, know it’s easy to add some Dr tranny via the coolers top house near the FBH

johnlad said:

Revs bouncing due to worn torque converter

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Yes my thoughts too I wish he changed it he whilst he had gearbox in his face! Is it a big job to change converter?

Try as Gary says and wang some drtranny in there, two tubes needed from ebay

gstuart said:

that’s what i’m also thinking, know it’s easy to add some Dr tranny via the coolers top house near the FBH

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It’s been a nightmare Car!! I added the tubs of dr tranny to no avail! Also forgot to mention Car goes in limp mode every 70 off mile. Pull over engine off and on and it clears . Had it in garage changed EGR valve changed battery still the same! And the juddering is getting worse if anything! I’m just wondering if they could be linked? Could the worn torque converter cause it to go into limp mode? I’m at the point where it’ll be going to auctions cos I’m sick of it! It’s the worse car I’ve ever owned

Have you had the codes read?
Have a quick google and find a local auto gearbox specialist and get them to have a drive in it.
You have to be logical when fault finding, the old days of load the parts cannon are long gone as its way to expensive.

lynall said:

Have you had the codes read?
Have a quick google and find a local auto gearbox specialist and get them to have a drive in it.
You have to be logical when fault finding, the old days of load the parts cannon are long gone as its way to expensive.

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I no mate it’s a nightmare with these sort of cars as parts are expensive, it got plugged in and basiclly all he told me was it was reading loss of commmunication so hence why he told me to swap battery! I might have to find a landrover specialist to read codes properly , it’s must be linked to gearbox though surly, I’m hoping to do torque converter and cure limp mode too. Here is to hoping !!

Loss of comms is going to be a canbus problem somewhere, most likely in one of the wheel arch plugs or the wiring very close to them.
We used to get canbus/loss of comms errors all the time on the hgvs and most of the time they are just spoof/ghost codes so delete and road test to see what codes come back, what does come back is most likely a real fault
If you so some research google/d3 forum I think the whole canbus circuit needs to be continuos ie like a model train track and there are severals resistors in various components parking brake module being one.
Battery is a good start but not likely to be your issue.

On the D3 forum there are a few forum sponsors who are mobiles techs, if you post and ask some will quickly give you their name/contact details, Ive not heard/read a bad thing about any of them so they are going to be the answer to your prayers as they will have seen all the issues by now.

lynall said:

Loss of comms is going to be a canbus problem somewhere, most likely in one of the wheel arch plugs or the wiring very close to them.
We used to get canbus/loss of comms errors all the time on the hgvs and most of the time they are just spoof/ghost codes so delete and road test to see what codes come back, what does come back is most likely a real fault
If you so some research google/d3 forum I think the whole canbus circuit needs to be continuos ie like a model train track and there are severals resistors in various components parking brake module being one.
Battery is a good start but not likely to be your issue.

On the D3 forum there are a few forum sponsors who are mobiles techs, if you post and ask some will quickly give you their name/contact details, Ive not heard/read a bad thing about any of them so they are going to be the answer to your prayers as they will have seen all the issues by now.

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Thanks mate appreciate that. I’ve just posted a thread! I’m new to this forum so hopefully I’ve posted it in right place

HI Guys it’s been a while!

Unfortunately I’m still struggling with my disco . Now I no why it was sent to auction ‍

So since buying the discovery I’ve replaced the following

Varta battery
Both egr valves (second hand)
Torque converter (second hand)
Gearbox electronics valve (second hand)

I managed to cure the car going in limp mode every 70 mile, it turned out to be a split wire behind the wheel arch,

The car still shudders going up hills at around 30mph! It’s like when you ask the engine to work a bit going up hill or asking for a bit of power! That’s when initially shudders vibrates! Accelerate a little bit more and it stops! Absolute mind boggling.

Also since getting the car back it now struggles to start in a morning, it initially fires started up then cuts out before I have chance to accelerate, did this 3 times other morning! Only way I managed to get it started was to put pedal to floor as I was turning Key! Then it started up and kicked a bit of smoke out sounded awful like it was going to cut out for about 10-15 seconds then cleared it self, starts fine rest of day without issues until following morning!

I’m struggling now with my mechanic . I don’t no if the parts mentioned above have actually even been changed! I’ve seen barely any difference what So ever only in my pocket.

Appreciate any help lads or pointing in direction of a specialist

Kind regards



Jamie

always ask for the old parts.

Also some s/h parts are secondhand for a reason

I agree mate live and learn! All the part I’ve had have been supplied by him ( he had a disco with knackered engine) also runs a disco himself so thought ide be able to get it sorted

jamie capuano said:

I agree mate live and learn! All the part I’ve had have been supplied by him ( he had a disco with knackered engine) also runs a disco himself so thought ide be able to get it sorted

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hi mate

there are a few excellent mechanics on the D3 forum which work on these day in day out and very experienced

they can start by plugging urs in and go through it with a fine tooth comb

i’m afraid u may end up with a gearbox rebuild, however the question remains if the torque converter has indeed been replaced and with a good quality one, is the oil a good quality one approved for the zf box

of course all assumption until it’s been double checked by a specialist , as u haven’t seen any parts come out and been checked

more than happy to send u the details of the guys from the D3 forum as at the end of the day u could keep going round in circles and paying out silly money

at least in their hands they can start fresh and at least tell u 100% what it will take to fix it, can then decide to either carry on or sell it and buy something else that hasn’t got the issues

Hi mate

That’s would be brilliant I would appreciate any help and point in right direction.

Just a quick note I took the car to a friend today he’s only a basic old style mechanic who works from home. I said to put my car on ramp and phone me up! I went down and 100% my gearbox has not been off. All the gearbox bolts are dirty rusted and in touched! Even down to to prob shaft bolts same again dirty un touched. So no way torque converter had been replaced! Only think I noticed had been touched as it was shiney clean and bolts all shiny, was a black plate at bottom of gearbox. I’m not sure what it is. I assume maybe inspection access panel ! It Almost looked like oil sump pan!

Where do I draw a line under it though now I’m into Car deap now. I’m tempted to just cut my losses and take a hit on this one

jamie capuano said:

Hi mate

That’s would be brilliant I would appreciate any help and point in right direction.

Just a quick note I took the car to a friend today he’s only a basic old style mechanic who works from home. I said to put my car on ramp and phone me up! I went down and 100% my gearbox has not been off. All the gearbox bolts are dirty rusted and in touched! Even down to to prob shaft bolts same again dirty un touched. So no way torque converter had been replaced! Only think I noticed had been touched as it was shiney clean and bolts all shiny, was a black plate at bottom of gearbox. I’m not sure what it is. I assume maybe inspection access panel ! It Almost looked like oil sump pan!

Where do I draw a line under it though now I’m into Car deap now. I’m tempted to just cut my losses and take a hit on this one

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That will probably be the new uprated metal sump on gearbox to replace the original plastic one, normally changed when renewing the gearbox oil

Yep I would agree new sump/gasket/filter and fresh oil, oil spec very important on the 6 speeders.
The metal sump has a separate internal filter and the plastic sump has the filter integral.

Only you can make the decision to cut and run, the thing is with any land rover if you cant diy the costs can really mount up.

Also, sounds like a **** taking mechanic, which isn’t the cars fault, but it still needs money to put right !

He’s on holiday at moment so he will have a nice shock when he gets back! Might get it done and Landy specialist and drop him invoice in! And make him pay it absolute p****

Just another quick one lad. Would this suspected torque converter failing cause limp mode? I tonight I had cured this but Cars juddering a lot worse lately More I use it worse it is! And now it’s starting going on safe mode! Until I turn it off and on again! I’m just wondering if they could be linked

We had the same symptoms disco 3 2006, Although the vibration got worse! was told by a landie specialist when we pulled up to the garage, (without looking or test driving) he said torque converter 100%
Went to a friends garage he said to try this gearbox additive/flush, tried it, no change,
he did then have a look and the centre bearing desparatley needed doing, changed that, slight improvement.
Still vibrating and hunting.
Left the car with him, he test drove it, put it up on the ramp and noticed the N/S/R wheel was smoking.

The pads were about 1000 miles old, the pads on this wheel were almost down to the metal.
All of the vibration and hunting was caused by the calliper sticking and seizing, I didn't believe it would be that simple but it has, I've done Wales to London twice now and all ok.