johnnys series 3 resto project

Congratulations Johnny, hope the baby lets you get some sleep .. ours didn't!

reet lads as i promised a bit of a walk through withb me door tops as i have spent all me pennies on comfy nice things for the little un i had to turn to the same initiative i had with the chassis and bulkhead and with the piccies / being sent to the shop ,school, out n about lef right and centre its took nearley all day to do one door top

so deep breath ahd here goes

reet first got on the bending machine and knocked up some 12mmx12mm channel from zintec 1.2mm sheet steel





i then cut some 3" wide strips of 8mm thick neoprene velvety stuff dunno where i got it or when i got it just had it knocking abbout in the shed

i then pasted carpet glue in the channel i had made and pressed the foamy stuff into the grooved part leaving a good overhang on each side for later



i then rammed the longer piece i made into the grove on the bottom of the window frame nice snug fit with a bead of sealant under it trapping the front glass in and sealing the damn lot



now i tucked the overhanging bit of foamy stuff into the edges between the frame and the track using a 2" filling knife to ram it tight into the space making it virtually airtight



now i just repeated this all the way round but the top track i fitted into the frame with the sliding piece of glass in place and screwed that in place and voilla a pretty good job if i do say so me self

coming together well

i tip my hat at your inginuity

Nice work! looks like a good fit

Tell you what mate, you keep coming up with innovative solutions to problems as cheaply as possible that probably do the job better than original ..

I'm glad there's no rivet-counters slagging you off, as there might be on other forums, 'cos in my view you're doing it very nicely and just making it work at least as good as original and probably much better!!

Hope the **** with the council gets sorted, they're like Rottweilers though, when they get their teeth in, they really don't wanna let go ...

And the best part about your channels is they wont rust!

Which way up/round did you put the rubbers between door bottom and door top?

Jamesbil said:

And the best part about your channels is they wont rust!

Which way up/round did you put the rubbers between door bottom and door top?

Click to expand...

i didnt exactly know wich way round they were supposed to be so i used me noggin and noticed that while looking at one end of it one side seemed a little thicker than the other and nthe thinner side had a bead so i put it thicker side to the outside with the bead facing up on the inside

to my thinking if its this way round and up as i tighten the door bolts up itll

1 squash the rubber more getting better weathertight compression on the outer side

2 itll kick the top end of the door over so itll get more compression against the door frame when shut and makes the door fit flush near enough to the top

3 the bead on the back is like a backup so if any water gets in through the joint it cant run uphill and get past that

with last nights heavy downpour it seems to be doing the trick good and propper its dry as a bone inside with no water egress anywhere on the door top them trims i made or the door seals

the only leak ive found is where the roof pan is rivveted to the windscreen channel wich im going to use neoprene sealant in there soon as ive got some pennies for it

anyone know anything bout military or coastguard id numbers as ive just been out investigating a loud smash sound out back had me usual peep over the fence turned round and theres some kind of id numbers in 2" high black letters and numbers over the centre of the windscreen on the roof

im thinking it used to be either coastguard or airport as at some point it was painted sunflower yellow and now seeing these numbers ill clean them up properly for tomorow but for now it looks to be

318.6W can anyone shed any light on this number or its origin as its another avenue to research for her history

id **** laughing if it were the reg number or part of it ill get pics tomorow as its a bit late on now fer using the camera in the back yard ( dont wanna wake me eldest daughter up )

3rd post but cant see any id numbers mate
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f6/ex-coastguard-landy-182792.html

weheeeeyyyyy i got a little time on the landy today so i decided to create a new hanger bracket for the fuel tank and fettle it on sorting the tank out





good news aswell i managed to get the tank fitted back in but need to find a couple more bolts for it yet but it is all piped in and wired up i got that right first time aswell when i turned the key on the needle rose slightly on the dash with the low fuel ligh on then proceeded to put £20 worth of fresh diesel in and watched the light go out and the needle hit 1/4 tank not bad sez i

wont be long now chaps and chapettes

Great work there Johnny, keep it up

glad ya are back mucka

Good work. Does the sender / float thing in ther tank usually need some kind of calibration? Need to probably replace my tank soon but sounds a fairly straight forward job.

Land Raver said:

Good work. Does the sender / float thing in ther tank usually need some kind of calibration? Need to probably replace my tank soon but sounds a fairly straight forward job.

Click to expand...

no but make sure float arm is free to move ,not catching side of tank etc

jamesmartin said:

no but make sure float arm is free to move ,not catching side of tank etc

Click to expand...

Thanks James

Good job on the tank support Johnny but risky, I know of a guy blew his face off welding a petrol tank.Keep the pictures coming and keep yer chin up M8ey.

crashbox said:

Good job on the tank support Johnny but risky, I know of a guy blew his face off welding a petrol tank.Keep the pictures coming and keep yer chin up M8ey.

Click to expand...

it was a bit risky i were ****tin broken glass not for the saske of explosion but the fact that tank is marinised its been made from fibreglass and the hanger tank strap ha been moulded into the tank so i didnt want to melt through the bugger otherwise it would have cost money to either repair or replace

and besides its been on and 1/4 full all night with a load of newspaper under it and not a single drop of beedle juice anywhere

not got any pics today as ive been making me cleets for the tedious job of attatching all the brake pipes fuel lines and bits of wiring loom to the chassis and bodywork spent 1/2 hour making 5 of the buggers and not verry well untill

i heared a farmiliar voice say your doing it all wrong and struggling for nowt it was me dad with me grandads brother ( the fellas an engineer and is now 94 yrs old ) when that man suggests something i listen as hes always right

he done me a pattern drawing on the back of a fag packet ( true brittish engineering style ) and ive started making this thing and i think its worthy of a show n tell sub thread tomorow

so bear with me lads this is gonna be creative thinking at its best :smokin: :smokin:

meanwhile back in the shed another idea was given life

first i got a bit of flat bar about 2" long and a piece of bolt shaft roughly 1 1/2" long and thinned one half of that by a couple of mill



i then welded the two buggers together while trapped in the vice taking care theyre paralelle and centred to each other





after a general grind clean i started with part 2

for this you need another 2" of the flatbar used in part 1 but with an additional 2 pieces at 3/4" long to create the top half hinge part



once you got the 2 pieces you need to trap the pair together so the top half is hinged at the thicker end of the shaft on the first piece then drill through the two tabs welded to the top piece youve just made



once youve bored through this thing at the same size as the bolt or scrap steel rod selected thread it through and saw the exess off then ignoring the ends of the rod weld that to the lower half of the unit in the middle of the shaft



now once its welded weld another scrap of steel flatbar in the contraption to the top half against the thinner end of the rod on the lower half like this



once its welded together you got this



get ready fer chapter 2 fellas