Jerky on overrun

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Landy-ads said:
My 110 is very jerky on the overrun, almost like 'Kangerooing', mostly below 30mph. Is this an engine or drivetrain problem?

The engine seems to run fine the rest of the time.
Click to expand...

Some options...

1. If it's always done this, or if you're recently played with the fueling then your tickover speed could be a bit high - you'll need a diesel rev counter and strobe to fix that - know anyone local to you with a discovery Tdi ?

2. The front driving members are worn.

3. If you've put bigger wheels on it then you might be driving it in the wrong gear for the speed as you've effectively changed the gearing.
 
sounds like adz said , drive train shunt.
how old is yer 110? worst case scenareo is a worn main shaft , bad news is if your 110 is old then this is quite possible.

a full check on the drive train for play is required , from the driving members right through to the gear box main shaft.

does it clonk if you put you foot down from a slow pace?
 
OK, wasn't listening hard enough - there is definite 'clank' noise when changing gear and the jerkiness is getting worse. so - where abouts do i start on this one???
Should I just renew all the driving members or is there a way to tell whcih ones are knackd?
 
Change all the oils, look for swarf in the old stuff.

Then, remove the rubber cap from each wheel in turn, jack that corner up, i would suggest difflock too with handbrake on, and turn the wheel back and forth until it hits the transmittion. Look for play between the half shaft and the flange, also this will tell you whereabouts the play is, i.e. rear diff, front diff, etc. Watch for how much wheel rotation it takes to move each prop shaft, that kinda things.
 
boydy1989 said:
Change all the oils, look for swarf in the old stuff.

Then, remove the rubber cap from each wheel in turn, jack that corner up, i would suggest difflock too with handbrake on, and turn the wheel back and forth until it hits the transmittion. Look for play between the half shaft and the flange, also this will tell you whereabouts the play is, i.e. rear diff, front diff, etc. Watch for how much wheel rotation it takes to move each prop shaft, that kinda things.
Click to expand...

Yep - I'd go with that. LR designed the axles so the most likely bit to wear and break is the easiest to replace and the cheapest part - driving member, propshaft UJ's, half shaft or CV and then diffs before you get to gearbox components.

If you check/replace them in that order you'll both track the problem down faster and spend less in the process. Only thing to add to boydys comment above is that any play at all in the driving member means it needs replacing - you shouldn't see any movement there, certainly not compared with the amount you'll find in the diff. Likewise with the propshaft uj's - any movement at all and replace them.

Diff's you'll get away with approx 1/4 turn of the propshaft - bear in mind the rear has the handbrake on it so you need to chock some wheels and then release the handbrake to test it - if you try with the handbrake on it'll be locked solid.

If you still can't find it take the front prop off the transfer box and wiggle the output shaft - there should be some slack in it but not a huge amount - there's probably a quoted figure somewhere on here or failing that in the haynes - that and the rear output shaft are about the last replaceable bits without having either the transfer box or the main box out of the car.

Good luck :D
 
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