Jenolite or Kurust ?

Turboman said:

I think you are right, I have always found when the rust comes back it is due too prep. Sometimes not rubbed down enough, but mostly due to poor washing after the rubbing down.
Any dust, but especially salt, left under the new paint and it will soon be bubbling up again

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I usually attack it with a wire brush on the grinder or drill then just blow it off with compressed air. I have heard of washing it with vinegar water before putting the converter on. It was investigating the vinegar water that lead me to believe that agitating the rusted surface enough is the key. You need to break though the hard crust and get right into the rust pours and open them up so the converter can get right to the back of the rust and deaden it.

Dan_Trials said:

I usually attack it with a wire brush on the grinder or drill then just blow it off with compressed air. I have heard of washing it with vinegar water before putting the converter on. It was investigating the vinegar water that lead me to believe that agitating the rusted surface enough is the key. You need to break though the hard crust and get right into the rust pours and open them up so the converter can get right to the back of the rust and deaden it.

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I lke awire brush in small angle grinder, p60 production paper is good in adisc on drill or grinder. For small fiddly parts I just go by hand.
Then I blast it thoroughly with the hot washer, about 2500psi and 120C is ideal.
Ive never tried the rust converter, I usually fabricate or get new if they are really tissue paper, I just paint with corroless primer when its clean and dry.

Just to be clear, you dont paint rubber or anything that gets hot ?

Also to anyone looking to waxoyl, get gloves and white spirit, hands and arms are covered in the stuff lol

afaik most use acid to convert rust. phosphoric into a stable phosphate or use tannic acid like kurust.

Straight acid works fine if you can get it to stay in place, or if you drop stuff into it. It can leech and will strip the zinc finishes from bolts and all that.

Kurust has some type of latex mixed into it (polymer additive), works alright for me.

Jenolite / naval jelly is the acid in a gel form so you can apply it and have it stick for the 20 mins or so on the side or underside of things.

Obviously, any of them can obviously only convert surface rust. So you can wire brush it back, apply to convert any rust left then paint. Some people will also then wire the converted black phosphate back and repeat until it's all clean.

You can use different acids to remove the rust. Some dude recently used a big tank of molasses and water then after a while it became acidic and 'ate' the rust on the doors he dropped in. Just takes a while depending on the concentration.

btw, the phosphoric acid can break down and go orangey.

I'd go for wire brush, jenolite, zinc primer, topcoat, then waxoyl if you want. Jenolite over straight acid due to you needing it to stick in place for 20 mins or so. But then if it's a chassis, it'll be rusting on the inside, so i wouldn't bother going too nuts over it.

trax said:

afaik they all use phosphoric acid to convert rust into a stable phosphate.

Straight acid works fine if you can get it to stay in place, or if you drop stuff into it. It can leech and will strip the zinc finishes from bolts and all that.

Kurust has some type of latex mixed into it, works alright for me.

Jenolite / naval jelly is the acid in a gel form so you can apply it and have it stick for the 20 mins or so on the side or underside of things.

Obviously, any of them can obviously only convert surface rust. So you can wire brush it back, apply to convert any rust left then paint. Some people will also then wire the converted black phosphate back and repeat until it's all clean.

You can use different acids to remove the rust. Some dude recently used a big tank of molasses and water then after a while it became acidic and 'ate' the rust on the doors he dropped in. Just takes a while depending on the concentration.

btw, the phosphoric acid can break down and go orangey.

I'd go for wire brush, jenolite, zinc primer, topcoat, then waxoyl if you want. Jenolite over straight acid due to you needing it to stick in place for 20 mins or so. But then if it's a chassis, it'll be rusting on the inside, so i wouldn't bother going too nuts over it.

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Plug up the drain holes, spray Dinitrol inside, and drive around for a bit, and it wont rust so much on the inside either!

I'm planning on spraying rust converter on the inside of the rails too followed by about 10 ltrs of waxoyl :lol:

The rust converter I have is Robex and it is non chemical and water based, seems to do a very good job but again time and effort put in to prep work.

I use a product called Vactan on rust ... it's a milky white solution which you can even use in a cheap spray can ... the type you buy for 99p for spraying plant leaves ... it really is superb stuff ... used in the marine industry too!

Andy Land said:

I use a product called Vactan on rust ... it's a milky white solution which you can even use in a cheap spray can ... the type you buy for 99p for spraying plant leaves ... it really is superb stuff ... used in the marine industry too!

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Yeah the Robex is milky white too. Is the Vactan chemical based?

Dan_Trials said:

Yeah the Robex is milky white too. Is the Vactan chemical based?

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vactan is the same as kurust by the looks of it, tannic acid

Vactan is a rust converter ... like Kurust it sends the rust black and converts it to gold ... erm ... I think

Tried Fertan for the first time last month - seemed more effective than Kurust (It's brown rather than milky) and was slightly less runny to apply on the door hinges with a small bush

Fertan rust converter