Jenolite or Kurust ?

Evening,

Doing some waxoyling before the roads start getting salt treatment again

What do you recommend before applying waxoyl ?

Jenolite or Kurust ?

I hear mixed things about both "rust eaters"

Is it even worth applying the stuff before applying waxoyl ?

Applying the stuff to a mid 90's defender,


Cheers for any help !

AFAIK as long as theres no loose rust, waxoyl does a similar thing to kurust anyway.

jenolite and kurust do different things, jenolite dissolves remaining rust after its been ground back.
Kurust can be applied to rust itself (after loose stuff removed) and converts rust to a hard stuff so you can hide it with filler

both do the job if used correctly, most people dont use enough kurust, so it still comes through from underneath

timtheenchanteruk said:

AFAIK as long as theres no loose rust, waxoyl does a similar thing to kurust anyway.

jenolite and kurust do different things, jenolite dissolves remaining rust after its been ground back.
Kurust can be applied to rust itself (after loose stuff removed) and converts rust to a hard stuff so you can hide it with filler

both do the job if used correctly, most people dont use enough kurust, so it still comes through from underneath

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Considering I've just purchased 20Ltrs of Waxoyl (if a jobs worth doing its worth overdoing it and doing it well)

I think Kurust might be the way to go, might buy around 5 Ltrs of the stuff and see how it goes !

Cheers for the info :tea:

I use phosphoric acid on rust.

lorri789 said:

I use phosphoric acid on rust.

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I think that's the main active ingredient in Jenolite anyway.........and Coca-Cola

just used kurust on my door hinges impressive stuff

Jam1 said:

I think that's the main active ingredient in Jenolite anyway.........and Coca-Cola

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Where do you buy phosphoric acid???

mick the builder said:

Where do you buy phosphoric acid???

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http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=phosphoric+acid+rust&_sop=15

It's not so much how many litres of a product you throw at it as the effort you put in to removing any rust, cleaning it all up, and so on.

I have purchased many metal brushes,

Saturday i'm doing solely preparation, removal of dirt and oil/grease is top priority,

then cleaning/scraping off rust, the wipe down with a "damp rag to get dust off,

Sunday is application day. planning 3 coats of all,

Not sure if i've missed any vital steps.

What I normally do is a good steam clean or even just a decent pressure wash will be fine. Then leave it over night to dry out.
Then go at it with compressed air to blow away and bits left and this also helps lift any remaining flaky bits and also dry it some more if it needs it.
Then rattle all over the place with a hammer.
Then have a good look over it all and providing no repairs are needed, clean it up with wire brush by hand, on a grinder, on a drill, what ever works best for you.
Then blast on the underseal. I find it better not to put loads on in one go, it seems to work best if you let it get dirty between coats. Driving up and down a dry dusty track is a good old trick or even just throwing dry sand at it.

Definitely something to look at then !

Greatly appreciate the advice !

No probs, let us know how you get on!

mick the builder said:

Where do you buy phosphoric acid???

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Jam1 said:

phosphoric acid rust | eBay

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I get it from the farm supply place. Careful not to get it on your skin especially if you have a cut

I never liked kurust.... Used it on my golf deades ago and the rust came straight back after 4 months.
Jenolite was my product of choice for a long time but having recently rear the reviews in magazines I tried Bilt Hamber products and found they wiped the floor with anything I'd tried prviously. Well worth trying if you can.

I started the project 2 years ago, first stripped to a chassis and kurusted, 12 months before I got on to painting the chassis and no rust had appeared, every bit kurusted was still dark blue/black and as good as the day done... chassis was outside stored in a damp temporary plastic garage type thing, chassis was then treated to 6 coats of black hammerite and waxoyld inside n out.

Admittedly I did use several coats of kurust and also if you can stretch to it I highly recommend the sealey waxoyl pro high pressure gun, about £65+ on ebay etc but does a superb home job













Cheers Steve

arc said:

I never liked kurust.... Used it on my golf deades ago and the rust came straight back after 4 months.
Jenolite was my product of choice for a long time but having recently rear the reviews in magazines I tried Bilt Hamber products and found they wiped the floor with anything I'd tried prviously. Well worth trying if you can.

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+1 for Bilt Hamber all the way

On the chassis on my 88 I wire brushed and scraped it all back gave it a coat of kurust, 3 coats of red oxide, a coat of thick international 2-pack paint and then 2 coats of black on top of that Then of course I waxoiled inside the chassis Should be good for a good few years now

I'm using Robex just now, bit thicker than Kurust and the like so you can blast it on and only a 5 hour cure time. £80 for 2.5 litres though, but that's island tax for you.

I also found with Kurust it would sometimes come back through after a few months, but I now put this down to surface preparation. With the Robex you only need 10% bright steel, with other makes you need more.

Dan_Trials said:

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I also found with Kurust it would sometimes come back through after a few months, but I now put this down to surface preparation. With the Robex you only need 10% bright steel, with other makes you need more.

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I think you are right, I have always found when the rust comes back it is due too prep. Sometimes not rubbed down enough, but mostly due to poor washing after the rubbing down.
Any dust, but especially salt, left under the new paint and it will soon be bubbling up again