jatco drive in 1 and 4 only

Hi Freelander 1 that has drive in 1 and 4 could it be a solenoid prob ? or more likely a clutch etc ?

Could be an electrical connation, solenoid or sensor. Does it flash F then 4 on the dash? Easy first checks are to make sure the barrel connectors below are connected properly. They twist to secure. Located above the auto. There's 2 of them. Also check the wires in the harness haven't broken or snagged on something to cause a short to earth. Then do a resistance check on the sensors and solenoids. Disconnect the barrel connectors and use the connectors connected to the auto to measure the resistance of the sensors and solenoids. Resistance should be within certain limits. If not then this could point to a problem like a failed solenoid. Also replacing the auto oil can sometimes fix problems on this auto. The filler plug IS NOT the bolt on the side, which if taken off stops reverse gear from working as part of the mechanism falls off inside (take auto apart to put back). There's a specific method to check the level of the auto fluid, which must be followed. You'd be betterer off buying the proper LR approved LRN402 oil too if you choose to change the auto oil, part no STC50531 for 1L

Barrel connectors x2


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How to secure them when the fekers come apart


DSC01080 PnqqrjE

Jatco auto level plug and drain


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Thanks for the really detailed reply , I got the vehicle home today , bought for sister , disco replacement ! I started and drove onto trailer but thats all . The prev owner said it worked OK by using 1st and 4th ! I thought to check out the a,b, and c solenoids 1st after checking the big connectors , after looking thru rave manual, seemed to suggest C , but no expert so may be using wrong logic ? So I need 14 to 18 Ohms across 18 and 11 for C on the CO243 connector ?

Yes. I'd check all while your there if it was me. I keep meaning to write this up to help peeps. When measuring the pins you may find you get stooopid readings. Imagine the connector is reversed left to right and then they will be ok. It's because the pdf drawing is done either looking into or out of the connector, which is naturally the reverse when you look at it to measure. If you get stuck use the other barrel connector C0244 and measure the gear lever selection position resistane to ground. This will help you to work out which way round the pins are. Then measure that way round on C0243.

Edit: Or easier option is to look at the colours on the rear to confirm correct way round.

Hippo said:

Could be an electrical connation, solenoid or sensor. Does it flash F then 4 on the dash? Easy first checks are to make sure the barrel connectors below are connected properly. They twist to secure. Located above the auto. There’s 2 of them. Also check the wires in the harness haven’t broken or snagged on something to cause a short to earth. Then do a resistance check on the sensors and solenoids. Disconnect the barrel connectors and use the connectors connected to the auto to measure the resistance of the sensors and solenoids. Resistance should be within certain limits. If not then this could point to a problem like a failed solenoid. Also replacing the auto oil can sometimes fix problems on this auto. The filler plug IS NOT the bolt on the side, which if taken off stops reverse gear from working as part of the mechanism falls off inside (take auto apart to put back). There’s a specific method to check the level of the auto fluid, which must be followed. You’d be betterer off buying the proper LR approved LRN402 oil too if you choose to change the auto oil, part no STC50531 for 1L

Barrel connectors x2

How to secure them when the fekers come apart

Jatco auto level plug and filler

Click to expand...

undoing bolt releases brake band stop ,so nothing for piston to push against ,allways check colour of oil as a first with autos black is clutch failure so if not you can rule out most mechanical failures ,if it is no point in doing anything else till fixed

Further to buying the 5 door for my sister have bought a 3 door GS for my daughter , drove it home about 50 mile OK in 1, 2 , 3 but banging on the changes with no positive drive in 4 and 5 . Have worked on this one first as needed to be on the road ! Did a ohms test on the pins with result of 1.1 ohms on the 2/4 duty solenoid ( 2.6 to 3.2 range on info sheet I found on net) the others all are within the given ranges inc 2/4 timing solenoid which is 17.01 (spec 14-18) although the others with same spec are all on 16.8/16.7 ? Does this mean that 2/4 duty solenoid is u/s ? and would it be a good idea to change the 2/4 timing solenoid , although it is within specs ?


BTW contacted Redline Oils and they say I can use their full synth D4 ATF to replace the 403 texaco , as thats been superceded by 7045E texaco IIRC
I use redline in the whole trans on my 110 V8 and have been well pleased esp seeing how the oils perform in OZ over several years

Just an update and a question

Fitted the 2/4 solenoid , and have used Carlube ATF -U ( states on tin can be used in place of Texaco 402) GSF autoparts stock it.
Did a test run , lovely smooth changes 1, 2 and 3 but slipping in 4 and 5 .

So looks like the p/o driving around with the fault has either knackered a clutch or brake band .

Any simple fix?

Does a V6 auto swap with the TD4 auto ? as being electronic control I would think its an ECU program difference , and maybe a T converter different ?

theres only a reverse brake band ,whats oil like

The oil smelled OK but colour was slightly brown , ie not pink pink!

Since posting have been looking to find manual (successfully 155pgs)
found on Mazda USA forum (same trans ) From reading there hard changes can cause piston damage leading to cracks and leakage , on mazda application some have repaired in car it would seem .

i too have repaired said piston and clutch pack in the car with engine support across engine bay allowing box tobe dropped below chassis rail ,all the clutch packs are behind the lhs cover except reverse

Luckily reverse is OK , trying to decide which way to go at the moment !
Can you suggest a source for parts if I try to do what you have done ?
Have not had any experience with auto boxes are they trickier than manuals ?

not to me but o do both ,take a few photos to show position of snap rings plates ,the bit your after is toward outer side so not all needs to come off derbyshire branch of the automatic gear box co can provide parts ,have a search theres a thread with photos of box stripped ,if you put a link i might be able to explain to you

tried the search but could not find anyhow just taking the other one apart to fit the solenoid, same one gone!! see if i have more luck with that !
Will get back to the first one then , and try lowering it on the engine crane and pull the end plate off and give it a go with your assistance ? Thanks for all the help so far :5bbeatdeadhorse5:

Well fitted the solenoid in the other one and job done! drives lovely , so back to the first one now . I picked up the read out and so the fault codes were as follows

P1748 2/4 brake solenoid (replaced , that sorted hard changes)
p0740 lock up clutch out of range
P0734 4th gear out of range
p0735 5th gear out of range
The last two are probably due to the p0740 fault i would guess ?

Well have got the endplate off the gearbox, after lowering powertrain on crane . took a couple of pics .

Where do we go from here ?

was oil blackish is that black residiue at bottom or shadow undo sensor 2 x bolt at bottom (blue wires )then you can remove spring ring ,then drum then look at clutch packs ,then take some pics and go from there

That was shadow , not sludge , the spring ring did have some black dust on it (oily) , but very light . I pulled out the clutch drive plates? and measured them they were both 1.36mm (with vernier caliper, not micrometer) there was slight signs of heating in places on the fixed plates .

you dont need to measure them at all ,light brown is good blackish is bad ,steels will show black /blue heat marks ,should be bright steel all around

I pulled the smaller diameter drive plates , that are further into that drum, some of them looked a bit scored .
What will I need to do ? replace all the friction plates ? are they the reason 4th and 5th are slipping not driving ? Is the goldy coloured unit in the back of the drum the piston ? does that need replacing? Or just the o rings ?
Sorry about all the questions , but its a new area for me Thanks for all the help

you need to strip unit completely and lay it out pics would help