If you want to check the level correctly then start from cold and let it warm up, like the correct instructions. The engine coolant gets warmer quicker than the auto oil which is why driving it doesn't put it to the correct temp band. It's the only way to know the real temp of the auto oil. Driving it will get it too hot too soon. When this topic comes up there's always a discussion. We assume something opens or happen within the auto at lower temps, but we're not sure. Will find out soon when I take my spare apart.Thanks Hippo - I'm aware of all that has been written regarding this on the forums.
Although surprised by what he said, to be honest i didn't really argue with him, since I'm used to things being done a little differently over here, but the result is usually good. Having got the call that it's ready to pick up, it's probably too late to influence this - do you have any recommendations on how to proceed? i.e take it for a drive on way home and check level or something similar?
Does anyone know if the Reverse Band / Low Clutch Band (name seems to vary) is the same on the various Jatco versions ?
Is the oil level in the jatco correct? Level is set with the engine on tick over.Ok thanks guys. I did the Solenoid Ohms check last night on the ECU connectors, and they all match the values in this video resistance video = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A so it loos like the multipin plugs & wiring is ok.
Guess it's box out time
To be honest I just followed RAVE procedure exactly for the gearbox removal. The only difference is to drain & remove IRD before front exhaust pipe. It's much easier to get to the exhaust studs this way.@pwood999, great stuff, don't know the answer sorry, but as the reverse loss is a common problem would you be prepared to do a procedure for what you have done with a few photos?? Could be a sticky on the site.
Just out of interest Andy, how long ago was that and where did you get it done? Just wondering in case mine packs up as it's on 155k now. I have visions of a garage charging £1500 to fit a recon box.Exactly what mine did, clunk, actually while driving forwards, then swung into neighbours drive to reverse into mine and got stuck!!!
Difficult to move even in neutral once band broke. I had a gearbox reconditioner change anything that was worn for about £700 including removal and replacement. It has now done another 80k miles since that day!!
It was about 8 years ago. A company called Engines & Gears in Leytonston East London. They were advertising auto fluid change recently on Ebay but no sign of them today as I look for a link!!Just out of interest Andy, how long ago was that and where did you get it done?
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