P38A jacking up and axle stands

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johnnysensi

Active Member
Posts
178
Location
tonbridge,kent
Just going to do my upper and lower suspension ball joints today and have read a few odd things about jacking up front and the placement of axle stands...I was going to jack up and use the stands under chassis rails when range is in top height. ..is this correct
 
So whilst you're doing that (!) ;) who is going to do the balljoints?
Any chance of getting them to do a 'how to' ?

Ball joints are a fairly straight forward job IF you have the tools. Rave tells you how to change them. Basically the same as this with a few small differences but it will give you the idea.
 
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'Balljoints' like trackrod ends - no bother. But the balljoints that are like swivel pins? Is this not a bit 'more of a challenge' on a P38?
Something about needing a special tool for centreing?
 
'Balljoints' like trackrod ends - no bother. But the balljoints that are like swivel pins? Is this not a bit 'more of a challenge' on a P38?
Something about needing a special tool for centreing?

You may get away with oil seal alignment if you don't disturb the bottom adjuster. But yes there is a special tool for setting height of hub relative to drive shaft. I made one on the lathe for about £45.00 in materials, a bit better than the £900.00 plus the tool suppliers want for one.
 
If the stud starts spinning with the nut (and the torx head is rounded like mine was!) pry bar on top and get a mate to bear down on the track rod - just in case !
 
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Watched the video a few times last ...I'm half way thru
.only get a hour or 2 each evening ..last night was hell...both brake backing plate nuts corroded. ..disc screw loctite in with corrosion as well...drag link ball joint corroded in sleeve...broke the taper and bugger ain't avin none of it ...tie rod joint just spins ...oooo what a lovely night I had swearing ....tie rod is getting angle grinder tomoz ...drag link well that's a mystery
 
If the stud starts spinning with the nut (and the torx head is rounded like mine was!) pry bar on top and get a mate to bear down on the track rod - just in case !
You probably know this already, but ...
when trying to get the ball joint taper out: take two fairly heavy hammers. whack the housing (NOT the balljoint) on opposite sides simultaneously, that is with a hammer in each hand. and plus gas. and patience... good luck.
(Copper grease on re assembly makes it easier next time!)
 
Watched the video a few times last ...I'm half way thru
.only get a hour or 2 each evening ..last night was hell...both brake backing plate nuts corroded. ..disc screw loctite in with corrosion as well...drag link ball joint corroded in sleeve...broke the taper and bugger ain't avin none of it ...tie rod joint just spins ...oooo what a lovely night I had swearing ....tie rod is getting angle grinder tomoz ...drag link well that's a mystery

What is this tie bar of which you speak? If you mean the Panhard rod. Don't even think about disconnecting that if it is sat on stands under axle. Stands need to be under chassis to play with that.
 
Just to add, when you are using axle stands make sure 1, they are up to the job and 2, level ground and there isn't a stone under one leg of the stand otherwise well see photo. I've used these stands many time without a problem but today, as I found later, there was a stone under one leg and you can see what happened. Luckily, some may say, I wasn't under at the time and I still had the trolley jack in place with the weight off it so it caught the car.:eek::)
FILE0005.jpg
 
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