Mine came with the RRC final drive gear not fitted it yet though also it's fitted with Knokken PTO winch...I also have the MOD release paper and it's first and only MOT showing 8,500km after it was rebuilt by Foley4X4 they galvanised the chassis have the receipt and converted it to 12v it then came here and sat unused for around 15yrs it now shows 14,000km...
I've just bought a 101 Ambulance... (YAY ME!)
- Thread starter yfo866
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Well, that sounds like an excellent vehicle! I seem to remember the PTO winch drive taken from where the flat plate on the underside of the transfer box sits. So, your xmas 'tree' gear selection should have red, yellow & green knobs if I'm not mistaken. A full house - & usually a big talking point among 101 owners! You will have lots of fun with this as many ex-serving members of the military will approach you to say they used to drive one.
Mine only has two levers as it doesnt have the overdrive option...the winch cable can be swopped from front to rear if needed...
Wildefalcon
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On fuel, ESSO super premium expensive is supposed to be ethanol free, depending on refinery, so that's the best option, ethanol being very hard on old steel, rubber and plastic, especially as it absorbs water.
Wildefalcon
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A piece of advice. Don't allow the project to stall. A good few years ago, my GS needed a new rear cross member, so I removed the rear deck. next, seeing as it was only a few more bolts, the cab was off. Yup, axles, chassis shot blasted, &....&... real life got in the way & now I have the time my health is not there. As my intended daily driver I found I was unable to 'mount' without serious effort & now my daily driver is my 90. Still a Landy, but not a 101. The build will continue one day, but realistically it will be a fun vehicle only. Great fun!
Wildefalcon
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Unfortunately true. I'm out of action at the moment. Tendonitis in the hamstring. But, have reduced hours at work to get this done.
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At that price i have only one word in reply...BARGIN!!!
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At the moment i'm still battling with the brakes...
I bought a set of shoes front and back yesterday. Jacked up the back and removed the wheel.(bloody heavy!!!!!!!!!!!!) Couldn't find my big phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws. Dug out my impact driver only to find the phillips bits missing...
So i thought i'd remove a sparkplug and go and get a new set of plugs and leads. Do you think i could find a plug socket?
So to Plan B.
Long sockets!
Got it into my head plugs used a 19mm socket. Grabbed a 19, 18 and 17mm long socket and tried to remove a plug. No luck! Presumed it was either not long enough or too fat to fit into the head recess. So gave up and grabbed something from the chippy for tea.
A few hours later i was looking through the manual i'd downloaded and discovered the plugs are 14mm...
Went to the Land Rover spares do at Malvern and came home with a vacuum brake bleeding kit, (read that this is the best way for bleeding a 101)a set of round thingys for removing and pressing home seals and bearings(hopefully make replacing the transfer box rear seal easier), a big phillips screw driver with metal running through the hand and a square shaft. Great for smacking with a hammer to shock the threads free and using a spanner for more oomph to undo a screw. Oh, and a plug socket. So i should be good to go!
I took it for a spin around the block again yesterday too with the brake adjusters backed right off. Still binding like hell and despite revving ok in low range pops and bangs and misfires in high range just when you try to grab third gear! To the point that once i find third, it's too going too slow for third! Before i wasn't sure whether the issue was fuel or spark. Now i'm leaning towards fuel. I'm wondering if the fuel pump is man enough for a V8. It's sat on top of the fuel tank, is about two inches in diameter and the same long. The SU pumps in my old Jags were about three times as long. So i might look at a new pump in addition to plugs, leads and dizzy cap. I'll have a look at the access to the points. If it's easy i might change those too. It's got to be about 25 years since i messed with plugs and points! I've been diesel ever since then, apart from a Lotus Elise which i just took to my cousin and threw money at him. FAR easier. I keep threatening to give him the 101 to sort out but his garage is about ten miles away and i don't know how long it would take to drive it there
I had to buy a snapon plug socket cost 90€ as you cant get all the plugs out with a normal socket they take short reach plugs PO put long reach in and the offside rear plug the hardest to remove snapped...the easiest way to remove the screws is a lefthand drill bit you dont need to replace them just keep one in toolbox to help remove drum they are there to keep drum on during build...At the moment i'm still battling with the brakes...
I bought a set of shoes front and back yesterday. Jacked up the back and removed the wheel.(bloody heavy!!!!!!!!!!!!) Couldn't find my big phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws. Dug out my impact driver only to find the phillips bits missing...
So i thought i'd remove a sparkplug and go and get a new set of plugs and leads. Do you think i could find a plug socket?
So to Plan B.
Long sockets!
Got it into my head plugs used a 19mm socket. Grabbed a 19, 18 and 17mm long socket and tried to remove a plug. No luck! Presumed it was either not long enough or too fat to fit into the head recess. So gave up and grabbed something from the chippy for tea.
A few hours later i was looking through the manual i'd downloaded and discovered the plugs are 14mm...
Went to the Land Rover spares do at Malvern and came home with a vacuum brake bleeding kit, (read that this is the best way for bleeding a 101)a set of round thingys for removing and pressing home seals and bearings(hopefully make replacing the transfer box rear seal easier), a big phillips screw driver with metal running through the hand and a square shaft. Great for smacking with a hammer to shock the threads free and using a spanner for more oomph to undo a screw. Oh, and a plug socket. So i should be good to go!
I took it for a spin around the block again yesterday too with the brake adjusters backed right off. Still binding like hell and despite revving ok in low range pops and bangs and misfires in high range just when you try to grab third gear! To the point that once i find third, it's too going too slow for third! Before i wasn't sure whether the issue was fuel or spark. Now i'm leaning towards fuel. I'm wondering if the fuel pump is man enough for a V8. It's sat on top of the fuel tank, is about two inches in diameter and the same long. The SU pumps in my old Jags were about three times as long. So i might look at a new pump in addition to plugs, leads and dizzy cap. I'll have a look at the access to the points. If it's easy i might change those too. It's got to be about 25 years since i messed with plugs and points! I've been diesel ever since then, apart from a Lotus Elise which i just took to my cousin and threw money at him. FAR easier. I keep threatening to give him the 101 to sort out but his garage is about ten miles away and i don't know how long it would take to drive it there
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After noticing a little paper sticker in the gearbox tunnel had got 'Serial no. 72GJ27 on it, i thought, is that a military reg? i went to https://merlinarchive.uk/ and typed in the number and it came back with the records below.
I then sent £48 to Gaydon and they sent me back a certificate stating that it left Lode Lane 28th November 1977 and it's build date was the 19th. Destination was Central Army Vehicle Depot Ashurch.
Make and Model: Land Rover Series 3 101 Inch Forward Control.
Exterior colour: Bronze Green
Hood Colour: Not applicable
The Gurkhas went to the Gulf war in 1990, so my ambulance saw action.
I then sent £48 to Gaydon and they sent me back a certificate stating that it left Lode Lane 28th November 1977 and it's build date was the 19th. Destination was Central Army Vehicle Depot Ashurch.
Make and Model: Land Rover Series 3 101 Inch Forward Control.
Exterior colour: Bronze Green
Hood Colour: Not applicable
The Gurkhas went to the Gulf war in 1990, so my ambulance saw action.
Wildefalcon
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Wildefalcon
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Did you know that they assembled jeeps at Ashchurch? I'd love to have an unfettered wander around there.
v8250
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Now i'm leaning towards fuel. I'm wondering if the fuel pump is man enough for a V8. It's sat on top of the fuel tank, is about two inches in diameter and the same long. The SU pumps in my old Jags were about three times as long. So i might look at a new pump in addition to plugs, leads and dizzy cap. I'll have a look at the access to the points. If it's easy i might change those too. It's got to be about 25 years since i messed with plugs and points! I've been diesel ever since then, apart from a Lotus Elise which i just took to my cousin and threw money at him. FAR easier. I keep threatening to give him the 101 to sort out but his garage is about ten miles away and i don't know how long it would take to drive it there
Can recommend you fit a pair of Facet pumps in parallel. This way if one fails you just swap over the hoses and 12v supply and away you go. Install an additional oversized pre-pump inline filter...and ideally a Filter King with built in regulator before the SU's. This set up is belt and braces and always provides an RV8 with best clean regulated fuel supply.
FACET CYLINDRICAL PUMPS 12V | Fuel Pumps Online
Facet Cylindrical pumps - FACET red & silvertop pumps, competition carburettor pumps, gold flow pumps, silver top pumps. Facet fuel pumps UK supplied by Fuel Pumps Online
MALPASSI FILTER KING | FUEL PRESSURE REGULATORS | FUEL PUMPS ONLINE
Malpassi Filter King regulators regulate and filter fuel without restriction to fuel flow. Perfect when upgrading to electric fuel pump to supply carburettors, avoids excess pressure causing flooding
Re' Ignition leads, Magnecor KV85's are superb and never fail - they're available in black or red. Magnecor will make up a full set for you if you measure and number each lead including the connector type at each end. Be sure to send photos of the numberedlead set with your order to Magnecor.
CUSTOM SETS - Magnecor
PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION BEFORE COMPLETING THE RELEVANT ORDERING GUIDE LOCATED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE.This service is incredibly popular and time consuming. Every set is unique to the customer, requires specific attention and may not be straight forward in terms of a solution...
www.magnecor.co.uk
Re' distributor, buy your components [points, rotor arm, condenser etc.,] from the Distributor Doctor. Most other suppliers use Chinesium parts that break down from new and/or fail shortly afterwards.
Reconditioned Lucas distributors, rebuilt Lucas distributors, recurved Lucas distributors from Distributor Doctor
Reconditioned Lucas distributors, rebuilt Lucas distributors, recurved Lucas distributors, Distributor Doctor
www.distributordoctor.com
For SU components Burlen Fuels have every component...
Sorry, bit of a doh moment on my part. The 3rd lever with a green knob would have been fitted if the vehicle was equipped to drive a PTO powered trailer making the whole thing a 6x6. One trailer was a 'Scottorn' I believe but cannot remember the name of the other. One used a PTO drive through the central hole in the rear chassis member & a specialized hitch & the other a standard hitch with the PTO coming beneath the cross member to reach the trailer. 3 were used on the great divide trip, the 1st crossing from coast to coast of the African quarter by any mechanically propelled vehicles. Only a leaf spring broke on one vehicle which was impressive for vehicles that had only just passed the prototype phase! There is a video of this fascinating trip undertaken by the army somewhere.
Wildefalcon
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The trailer drive option always intrigued me. Apparently they dropped it because the trailer could and did roll the tractor when the tractor lost drive, for example cresting a hill at speed.
So, now the third position on the lever bar is used for the overdrive or other PTO devices on demobbed vehicles.
So, now the third position on the lever bar is used for the overdrive or other PTO devices on demobbed vehicles.
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I won't resort to drilling them out just yet as i haven't had anything to use to try to undo them.
I think you'd find it pretty boring now as i believe the base is almost closed with local talk of it being sold for developement.
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I'll admit to not looking for that light yet. This morning before work i was investigating the fuel pump. I think the reason it pops and bangs and misfires when under load is the fact that it has the original 'in tank' fuel pump in situ with another tiny one hanging loose on the fuel pipes above it sucking through both pumps.
I bought a new one from 101parts.co.uk, plus a new gasket and a new hand brake cable. Afterwards i kicked myself for not ordering the parts manual at the same time.
I'm going to do my utmost to get it on the road for the Great British Land Rover Show next month, because the 19th is it's 46th birthday.
It needs a new set of tyres because the bargrips that are fitted have some cracks on the sidewalls near the tread.
With your Ambi's chassis now galvanized I suspect the differential convoy light was probably not re-fitted. Having pumps sucking through other pumps is never a good idea & it is certainly a good idea to get this sorted before you are left beside the road somewhere with the recovery man/lady saying "I'm not putting that on here!!" I've been out of the 101 circuit for a bit now & am curious what tyres are on offer out there now, the 300's which were mega perfect made by Michellin now a distant memory sadly. At the time I found it impossible to obtain the correct 33"/34" height without the fashionable extra width & the bar grips are getting very old now. I have heard of some MOT stations failing vehicles on the date stamped on the tyres. The tallest BF Goodrich offered without the extra width never quite stepping up in the height dept either. If you are feeling very adventurous & not seeking originality, Unimog wheels fit (just) & being 20" have a great selection being aimed at the commercial world. There was a lot of debate going around years ago whether this was a design insistence of Land Rover by the military which would explain the 6 wheel studs. Dunno.
From what I remember reading somewhere, the 101 had descended a steep hill during a demo & its driver had turned left upon reaching the bottom. With the towing hitch height above the axle line, the powered trailer continued to push the 101 resulting in it rolling onto its side - whilst being observed by some high ranking bods it was being demonstrated to. Oops. I still liked the idea though & for pure coolness would have one in an instant!
