I've gone and done it

I've taken apart stuff and now I can't put it back. :doh: My goal was to remove (and inspect) the water pump (as part of my overheating engine odyssey). I got as far as the fan pulley, but it bested me.

In the first pic you can see the fan pulley (minus belts) still attached to the water pump shaft - with four studs peaking out, one with a nut still attached.

Turns out that nut is seized to the stud and the stud came out when I tried to remove the nut. So, how do I tighten a (replacement) stud back into the pulley since it's got threads at both ends? (See 2nd pic) The 3rd pic shows where the stud was removed.

My next question is how do I remove the pulley? Do I need a gear puller? I can't figure out what's holding the pulley to the water pump. And how do I put the pulley back on if I do need a puller to get it off? (Sorry if that's a dumb question, but I've never used a puller.)

I know this is a bit daft, but my last question is, how do I tighten all the belts once I'm done?

if the thread is clean it will go back in-if there is enough thread you can put two nuts on and wind the stud in.

If you haven't adjusted the belt-it should be possible to put belt on pulley and pull onto pump. Jiggle it till threaded holes line up.


If you can't loosen pivot bolts an alt and adjuster pivot and bolt use bar and nip adjuster bolt (then pivot bolts)
Same with Power steering pump

Not sure what you mean about using two nuts to wind the stud back in. The thread is clean and I can get it back in to finger-tight, but I'm not sure how to do better than that.

Also, do you figure I need a puller to get the fan pulley off or should I just yank on it some more?

As for the belts, I reckon I can get them back on to the pulleys and pumps easily enough and I loosed the pivot bolts so the pumps move easily, but I'm not sure how to swivel the pumps (against the resistance of the belts) and then tighten the swivel bolts to a point where the belts are tight enough for running. Did I undertand correctly that you suggest using a bar to lever against the pump while I tighten the swivel bolts?

Cheers!

once the stud with nut on has been removed, the only thing holding the pulley on is corrosion, either behind the pulley or on the centre shaft of the water pump. Careful use of a soft mallet should remove the pulley. As for replacing the stud, once removed, take off the nut, run two (non nyloc) nuts onto the stud and tighten them together. You can use that to wind the stud back in, preferably with stud lock or screwlock. once that has been done, you can loosen the two nuts against each other and remove them, leaving the stud in situ.

yu in Gloucestershire - sure there are a few members that way that could offer to assist for folding beer tokens. .

pulley will want plus gas/double tt easing spray tap on flat face where studs come through (not pulley belt area as pressed steel will bugger up)

I'm tempted to suggest you would be best off putting it back together and asking someone to help you locally-before it ends in disaster)

I'm definitely not above asking for help -- if anyone nearby can spare some time I can definitely spare some beer. Just trying not to take advantage of folks, really, and hoping to learn something along the way. I'm short of the tools (e.g. no soft mallet). I'll give putting it all back together a go and see how I get along. Cheers!

Welp, despite your good advice and warnings I've managed to cock it up.

I wanted to peek inside the water pump since all I had left to do was to unscrew the (15!) bolts holding it together. I went around getting them all gradually looser. One of them was stubborn, so I applied WD40, elbow grease, and then POP - the bolt broke. Basically, all of the threaded part is till in, holding the pump together and (AFACT) onto the engine.

In my defense, the bolt was rusted thru, but never mind that. Any recommendations (for or against) for a particular bolt remover? I don't think I have enough space for a drill.

EDIT: BTW, I did get the pulley off - thanks for the help! It was just corroded and a tight fit.

take the radiator out and yu can drill it out.
which bolt is it?

yu mite find it useful to read this >>>> http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/changing-200tdi-timing-chain-probs-111868.html

Thanks for that link - and you're right about the rad. Coincidentally, I just checked and it would definitely fit if I took out the rad, which doesn't seem like a really big effort from the state of things now.