"It's a boat, It's a Landrover, It's a stopped"

Out playing at the local river mouth I was obilivious to the tides rapid
advance leaving me to leap thru a channel to get back to solid ground I
chose the same spot I crossed over to get out there but it was flipping
deep my poor old 1973 Series 3 SWB swam it's best but took a heap of
nasty sea water thru the not quite high enough snorkel. The result was
instant full stop and a tow required from the ankle deep water just a
metre away. I took out the glowplugs asap and expelled copious amounts
of water and to my relief got it to start once assembled (before the
tide got to knee deep). BUT I am getting grey blue smoke burning oil
and there is a new knock in what I can tell is a valve. I managed to
drive home the 40kms home getting up to 90kph but lots of smoke and a
bit noisey from a valve but no problem starting making me think it's a
valve bent and not a conrod or the timing chain has stretched making it
a timing issue.

My question to the many experienced punters here is where should I
start?
I'm thinking of replacing the timing chain and lifting the head to check
the valves for any obivious damage. If damage is not seen or measured
then replacing the valves stems. Is it possible the the head gasket is
partially blown.
Which I can do with engine installed but am I better to remove the
whole thing and whip out the pistons etc in essence recon the whole
thing.

I'm thinking after typing this I've answered my own questions but any
input would be great.

Trev wrote:

> My question to the many experienced punters here is where should I
> start?
> I'm thinking of replacing the timing chain and lifting the head to check
> the valves for any obivious damage. If damage is not seen or measured
> then replacing the valves stems. Is it possible the the head gasket is
> partially blown.
> Which I can do with engine installed but am I better to remove the
> whole thing and whip out the pistons etc in essence recon the whole
> thing.

Hydraulicing won't generally bend a valve or damage the valve train. It
does however normally bend conrods! Whip the head off with the engine in
situ and turn it over to see that all the pistons come up the bores
the same amount - I'm betting that one doesn't due to a bent rod, and
that the smoke is unburnt diesel from lack of compression in that cylinder.

At that stage you're into an engine rebuild and unless you're lucky
you've probably damaged the bore too - the knocking is more than likely
the conrod catching the lower edge of the cylinder wall.

Sorry to be a bit negative, but IME as a machanic that's the most likely
scenario.

--
EMB

I know someone who did the same and bent the crankshaft.
Richard



"EMB" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Trev wrote:
>
>> My question to the many experienced punters here is where should I start?
>> I'm thinking of replacing the timing chain and lifting the head to check
>> the valves for any obivious damage. If damage is not seen or measured
>> then replacing the valves stems. Is it possible the the head gasket is
>> partially blown.
>> Which I can do with engine installed but am I better to remove the
>> whole thing and whip out the pistons etc in essence recon the whole
>> thing.
>
> Hydraulicing won't generally bend a valve or damage the valve train. It
> does however normally bend conrods! Whip the head off with the engine in
> situ and turn it over to see that all the pistons come up the bores the
> same amount - I'm betting that one doesn't due to a bent rod, and that
> the smoke is unburnt diesel from lack of compression in that cylinder.
>
> At that stage you're into an engine rebuild and unless you're lucky you've
> probably damaged the bore too - the knocking is more than likely the
> conrod catching the lower edge of the cylinder wall.
>
> Sorry to be a bit negative, but IME as a machanic that's the most likely
> scenario.
>
> --
> EMB

Sorry, I agree with EMB. My mate hydrauliced his 90 diesel (at very low
revs) and it still ran sort of OK. Tickover was a bit wobbly and there was
more smoke than usual, but he carried on driving it for a few weeks before
finally deciding further investigation was needed.

I could not believe how such meaty con rods could bend so much. In fact, one
of them had twisted so much we had to cut half the big end off with an angle
grinder to get the piston/con-rod out of the bore!

I really hope yours isn't knackered, but don't take the fact that it's still
running as meaning there's no serious damage.

Andy


"Trev" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Out playing at the local river mouth I was obilivious to the tides rapid
> advance leaving me to leap thru a channel to get back to solid ground I
> chose the same spot I crossed over to get out there but it was flipping
> deep my poor old 1973 Series 3 SWB swam it's best but took a heap of
> nasty sea water thru the not quite high enough snorkel. The result was
> instant full stop and a tow required from the ankle deep water just a
> metre away. I took out the glowplugs asap and expelled copious amounts
> of water and to my relief got it to start once assembled (before the
> tide got to knee deep). BUT I am getting grey blue smoke burning oil
> and there is a new knock in what I can tell is a valve. I managed to
> drive home the 40kms home getting up to 90kph but lots of smoke and a
> bit noisey from a valve but no problem starting making me think it's a
> valve bent and not a conrod or the timing chain has stretched making it
> a timing issue.
>
> My question to the many experienced punters here is where should I
> start?
> I'm thinking of replacing the timing chain and lifting the head to check
> the valves for any obivious damage. If damage is not seen or measured
> then replacing the valves stems. Is it possible the the head gasket is
> partially blown.
> Which I can do with engine installed but am I better to remove the
> whole thing and whip out the pistons etc in essence recon the whole
> thing.
>
> I'm thinking after typing this I've answered my own questions but any
> input would be great.
>
>

Sorry, I agree with EMB. My mate hydrauliced his 90 diesel (at very low
revs) and it still ran sort of OK. Tickover was a bit wobbly and there was
more smoke than usual, but he carried on driving it for a few weeks before
finally deciding further investigation was needed.

I could not believe how such meaty con rods could bend so much. In fact, one
of them had twisted so much we had to cut half the big end off with an angle
grinder to get the piston/con-rod out of the bore!

I really hope yours isn't knackered, but don't take the fact that it's still
running as meaning there's no serious damage.

Andy


"Trev" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Out playing at the local river mouth I was obilivious to the tides rapid
> advance leaving me to leap thru a channel to get back to solid ground I
> chose the same spot I crossed over to get out there but it was flipping
> deep my poor old 1973 Series 3 SWB swam it's best but took a heap of
> nasty sea water thru the not quite high enough snorkel. The result was
> instant full stop and a tow required from the ankle deep water just a
> metre away. I took out the glowplugs asap and expelled copious amounts
> of water and to my relief got it to start once assembled (before the
> tide got to knee deep). BUT I am getting grey blue smoke burning oil
> and there is a new knock in what I can tell is a valve. I managed to
> drive home the 40kms home getting up to 90kph but lots of smoke and a
> bit noisey from a valve but no problem starting making me think it's a
> valve bent and not a conrod or the timing chain has stretched making it
> a timing issue.
>
> My question to the many experienced punters here is where should I
> start?
> I'm thinking of replacing the timing chain and lifting the head to check
> the valves for any obivious damage. If damage is not seen or measured
> then replacing the valves stems. Is it possible the the head gasket is
> partially blown.
> Which I can do with engine installed but am I better to remove the
> whole thing and whip out the pistons etc in essence recon the whole
> thing.
>
> I'm thinking after typing this I've answered my own questions but any
> input would be great.
>
>