Is this service history bad?!

I photocopy the servicing page out of the Haynes manual, write the mileage at the top and then tick the things I do, write notes on it and then stick it back in the Haynes.
That way I know what I have done and can use it for when I do the next service. I also write notes in the Haynes like the socket size needed and sarcastic remarks when they get it wrong!

Stanleysteamer said:

I photocopy the servicing page out of the Haynes manual, write the mileage at the top and then tick the things I do, write notes on it and then stick it back in the Haynes.
That way I know what I have done and can use it for when I do the next service. I also write notes in the Haynes like the socket size needed and sarcastic remarks when they get it wrong!

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I can tell you used to be a teacher

Ian M in France said:

I can tell you used to be a teacher

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Really? Can't think how this reflects that!? Just trying to bring some method into my otherwise chaotic life! Never did anything like this when i was working, just used to look at the mileage and work out roughly what needed to be done!
Cars are so much more complex nowadays that I felt servicing called for a bit more of a logical approach. To say nothing of LRs being so idiosyncratic. (Now that DOES show I used to be a teacher!)

Stanleysteamer said:

Really? Can't think how this reflects that!? Just trying to bring some method into my otherwise chaotic life! Never did anything like this when i was working, just used to look at the mileage and work out roughly what needed to be done!
Cars are so much more complex nowadays that I felt servicing called for a bit more of a logical approach. To say nothing of LRs being so idiosyncratic. (Now that DOES show I used to be a teacher!)

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But do you write the sarcastic comments in red pen?

"must try harder" - story of my life, the precedent set by damn teachers.

You can see what's been done by letting it fall open, mine falls open at the very oily gearbox section.....

Stanleysteamer said:

Really? Can't think how this reflects that!? Just trying to bring some method into my otherwise chaotic life! Never did anything like this when i was working, just used to look at the mileage and work out roughly what needed to be done!
Cars are so much more complex nowadays that I felt servicing called for a bit more of a logical approach. To say nothing of LRs being so idiosyncratic. (Now that DOES show I used to be a teacher!)

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It was the bit about writing sarcastic comments when they got it wrong

Urgent - Grateful for any thoughts on this video below. Very quick clip of the underside of a disco I am buying. I think I found a great underbody at last!

That has the look of a chassis that is about to rust badly. It looks like the metal is there now but the protection has gone in a lot of places. On the plus side you could use this to negotiate, but it will need to be properly rust treated inside and out, not a costly job, but a messy one. Since the metal looks to be there it could have a long life if looked after.

Put a welder in your budget. As above looks doable but not something I would want to put off for long.

There are only two choices really -
Get one that’s already done or get one that needs doing.

Worst thing you can do is get one that ‘been done’ but not thoroughly just covered it up

Thanks, but not sure what "done" means exactly. This is dry and unprotected because it has never been protected. But I like that as I am seeing the real state and it seemed pretty solid throughout the underneath. I had the hammer/hat/phone procedure working nicely
I will of course protect it, but only after very close inspection if i buy it. (by someone better than me with a pair of eyes!)

The vehicle in the video is "honest" - you can see the metal, mud and rust. It needs to be protects ASAP with a lot of Waxoil inside and out (or something similar). The benefit of waxoil and other wax / spray type things is that they protect but don't hide a lot. The problem comes when the whole thing is sprayed with a thick undercoat. It will look great but there could be very little metal underneath, and chassis corrode from inside. The edges of the holes in that chassis look ok, you can see the thickness, there are some damp patches, OK if they are oil, but bad if they are wet leaking from water trapped inside. Can't tell from the video.
"done" - rust treated inside and out and welded where it needs to be or, sprayed with thick underseal over paper thin metal. both look the same and the only way to tell is poking hard (if you know where but its still a gamble) or the seller has before and after vidoes of the work - but if its a dog who would vidoe it? That's why its often better to buy scruffy but "honest" vehicles.
When I bought my S2A I spent ages under it and the guy clearly didn't think I would buy it as there was chassis rust. But it was localised and repairaible, nothing was being hidden, and I felt I knew what I was letting myself in for. Welding over the next year cost around £800 but it was for sale around £1200 under the market rate.

Thanks very much, that's great info. If I buy it I will have it up on ramp with my mechanic and go very carefully around it looking for anything which could remotely benefit from welding. I don't think there is any, there wasn't a single soft spot anywhere, and not many spots of even surface corrosion really. Once I am 100% certain that it's solid and no work needed, I was planning on going to Before'nAfter for a thorough seal with before and after pics for my own records. I would want this vehicle to last as long as physically possible. One or two tyres are also on their way towards the legal limit. I have no clue about tyres, I have heard of General Grabbers and Toya Open Country. It will be used mainly on road and I intend to remap it, i want every last mpg I can get, so that needs to be considered when getting tyres. However I do occasionally go off road, nothing serious but farm fields or dirt tracks etc. Maybe road tyres is all I need, but a cross purpose one would appeal to me IF it doesn't reduce the MPG by much. Grateful for any recommendations to consider. (Obviously I will be changing all four)

Road tyres will be better on the road, obvs, plus better mpg. Disco 1/2 will go most places on road tyres.
Grabber A/T are good all rounders and look nice.

Yes I have heard lots of people speak highly of grabbers. At a guess, what would difference be in MPG between those and pure road tyres? If it's only maybe 1-2 mpg, I might consider it. if its 5, I probably won't.
P.S. What would be a decent road tyre bang for buck? (I think the vehicle has Maxis on at the mo)

I've been very pleased with BFG A/Ts - great on the road, don't seem to wear at all and decent enough off road. I would expect Grabbers to be the same.

not heard of BFG, will look those up too. Being great on the road is a big consideration as I do need decent road handling (for a disco anyway )

BFG-A/T B F Goodrich All-Terrain