Freelander 1 Is there a buyers guide?

BLUF:- I may be buying a Freelander 1 TD4 and need to know what to look for.

Wife has broken her car. I'm away and trying to diagnose by telephone but it sounds terminal. And anyway I hate fixing the effing thing. If only everything in life was as reliable as a Volkswagen Golf eh...? Soooo, I might buy her a Freelander TD4 to match the Disco 2 I drive. It would be kind of cool to have a fully LandRover fleet.

Trouble is I know very little about the FL1 and I may need to move quite quickly. So, what should I be looking for (a rear propshaft!)? What breaks and costs a mint? And what can I look at/test to see that I've found a good'un?

I've heard of the VCU and IRD, but don't know what they are or how to spot one that's about to fail.
I've heard of leaking rear windows - are there tell tale signs or an easy fix?
As I understand it the engine (BMW M51?) and gearbox are pretty robust, so the normal checks apply?
Do they rust? Eat bushes?

Educate me!

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/what-to-lock-for-on-freelanders.163164/#post-1620217

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/

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Rust isn't generally a problem, but check the sill ends and other areas likely to get salt spray from the tyres.
The TD4 is a BMW M47R, which is OK, just. It suffers from injector faults, sensor faults and doesn't get serviced correctly, which doesn't help.
The clutch isn't particularly durable and generally doesn't last 100K miles, les if towing has been done. I would choose the auto myself, simply to avoid a costly clutch replacement. I think the auto is also nicer to drive.
The condition of the VCU can be checked with the One Wheel Up Test (search on here for that). The easiest way to get an idea of the IRDs condition, is to replace it's oil. If it's oil is grey and metallic, then the IRD requires a rebuild. If the oil is black or brown, then it's still serviceable.

BMW M47 motor - diesels are generally reliable and economical - possibly the earlier L series more so for reliability.
VCU = Vicous Coupling Unit - is what sends power to the rear wheels when needed. To get an idea on the condition the VCU do the One Wheel Up Test [OWUT] have a look on here or YouTube... A Good VCU should take about 30 seconds to turn 45º - 2 minutes... and its stiffened internally and should be replaced.

IRD - Intermediate Reduction Drive - is the transfer box on the back the gearbox. If the VCU is knackered or a mixed set of tyres are fitted or the tyres are unevenly and incorrectly inflated; these things can destroy the IRD = £££ to replace. An oil change gives an indication as to its internal health. If you do go ahead with a FL1 purchase loosen the fill plug on the IRD before draining it - they are often extremely tight!

Rear window is a common problem - Mines fine so I can't advise of cause or cure.

L series has a timing belt - later BMW M47 has a chain. L series has fewer sensors and is perhaps easier to self maintain. M47 is a punchier and better performing motor.

From What I've read on here rust is not a big issue.

So things to look for - a good service history... a matching set of tyres, a quick OWUT time... Prop shaft is fitted of course! If it isn't it likely means a stiffened VCU has stuffed the IRD - the claims of better MPG without the prop's fitted are not right.

The 'test for new freelander owners' link should provide the main info to stop you having very expensive repair bills - they relate to tyres and the VCU. Other than those issues you are into 'normal' car related issues. I've had my L series for coming up to 8 years, its getting on for 20 years old and is boringly reliable

A later TD4 will have a few more bits to go wrong, like a couple of extra electric windows, maybe heated seats etc. Its also completely different engine, box and ABS.

There are a couple of things you can do do improve the reliability greatly on a TD4 - install a new O ring in the pressure sensor/modulator in the injection pump and install the upgraded fuel pressure sensor (on the fuel rail) harness. Those 2 bits will probably stop 75% of TD4 engine problems. Oh and the lift pump, but the older lift pumps appear to suffer fewer faults - the later ones under the wheel arch cause a lot of threads on here. Not sure if its worth doing preventative maintenance on that though as new ones might only last till the end of the drive!

The overriding thing though with Freelander are the tyres and VCU. The tests in that link are very important and it is a good idea to get an understanding of how the IRD & VCU work so you realise the importance of the tyres and VCU for yourself - you won't be tempted to skimp on tyre maintenance and the occasional check of the VCU then! I think everyone should factor in the price of a (Bells) recon VCU when buying a Freelander - about £260 plus support bearings I believe.

It sounds sacrilege, but you could consider running it 2WD. This will remove the possibility of transmission issues - but it obviously depends on what you want to use the car for! Even though our Freelander is getting on in years, it is our main family car. It is relied on to start every day and be available to us. It is also relied upon to take us, and often visiting family/friends, on long road trips around the mountainous (and spectacular ) South Island here in NZ. Reliability is prime importance to us and our L Series Freelander has been the perfect wagon. However, 3 years after we got it, and not knowing to much about it, I managed to turn the transmission into iron filings - I believe by running with a tyre low on air for a couple of days on a road trip. I rebuilt the IRD, but was not prepared for this problem to occur again, so removed the drive to the prop shaft, so the car runs as 2WD. As I say, I did that for 'ultimate' reliability, but its not for everyone, plus I can't take my Freelander down the beach any more and I have to be towed out by big Landies when I get stuck venturing to far off tarmac on group outings - which they love as they get to practice recovery You need to inform your insurer if you go 2WD and premiums may rise.

Despite fixing the dreaded Golf one more time (and so putting off buying a replacement), this may now be happening and I've found what appears to be a good 'in locally.

Just out of interest what sort of MPG should I expect - say on a dual carriageway at a constant(ish) 70mph?

Balbas said:

Despite fixing the dreaded Golf one more time (and so putting off buying a replacement), this may now be happening and I've found what appears to be a good 'in locally.

Just out of interest what sort of MPG should I expect - say on a dual carriageway at a constant(ish) 70mph?

Click to expand...

From what vehicle?

Nodge68 said:

From what vehicle?

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A TD4 Freelander.

Balbas said:

A TD4 Freelander.

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Somewhere between 30 and 40 Mpg, depending on being a manual or automatic.