L322 Is my ECU at fault?

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nickrc

nickrc

Member
Posts
18
Location
North Lincolnshire, UK
Hi, Looking for help with diagnosing my L322, to start with its a 4.4v8 petrol/LPG 54 plate and I am in the UK (North Lincs)
Problems all started a couple of weeks back, Drove to local petrol station for a fill up on LPG and also a touch of petrol. Drove back towards home (all of 5 miles max) while driving I got the air suspension inactive flash on the dash so like a fool I pulled over and planned to switch off the engine, restart and turn the wheel to reset, however when I turned the key to start I got sweet FA. Cue lots of cursing and eventually a tow home I found that the security system had reset? now if my onboard computer screen was working it would have alerted me to wait 30 mins but I doesnt so I didn't. When i started fault checking I thought to try that and boom it went from nothing on key turn to a solenoid click but still no ignition. Next I changed the battery in the key fob and this time success, kind of, it started but runs like a bag of spanners.
Ok so the actual problem, engine is running super rough and "engine failsafe" comes on, throttle does nothing. I hooked up my code reader and got:
Electric thermostat fault
o2 sensor bank 1 upstream
Throttle adaption spring test failed
EBV function fault from ABS ECU

I have visually checked the wiring back from the thermostat to the black box and its ok, and after reading many forum postings it seems to point towards ECU failure (this post seems similar https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/engine-ems-ecu.263832/)

So on to the question, I have limited experience with loom testing but i can look into it, also I am happy to open up the ecu and check the solder, any other ideas of things I should be looking at?
 
nickrc said:
Hi, Looking for help with diagnosing my L322, to start with its a 4.4v8 petrol/LPG 54 plate and I am in the UK (North Lincs)
Problems all started a couple of weeks back, Drove to local petrol station for a fill up on LPG and also a touch of petrol. Drove back towards home (all of 5 miles max) while driving I got the air suspension inactive flash on the dash so like a fool I pulled over and planned to switch off the engine, restart and turn the wheel to reset, however when I turned the key to start I got sweet FA. Cue lots of cursing and eventually a tow home I found that the security system had reset? now if my onboard computer screen was working it would have alerted me to wait 30 mins but I doesnt so I didn't. When i started fault checking I thought to try that and boom it went from nothing on key turn to a solenoid click but still no ignition. Next I changed the battery in the key fob and this time success, kind of, it started but runs like a bag of spanners.
Ok so the actual problem, engine is running super rough and "engine failsafe" comes on, throttle does nothing. I hooked up my code reader and got:
Electric thermostat fault
o2 sensor bank 1 upstream
Throttle adaption spring test failed
EBV function fault from ABS ECU
I have visually checked the wiring back from the thermostat to the black box and its ok, and after reading many forum postings it seems to point towards ECU failure (this post seems similar https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/engine-ems-ecu.263832/)

So on to the question, I have limited experience with loom testing but i can look into it, also I am happy to open up the ecu and check the solder, any other ideas of things I should be looking at?
Click to expand...
What voltage do you have on the car battery?
 
nickrc said:
12.4 and it’s been on my charger.
Click to expand...
That is not far off a flat battery if that is all you have after it came off the charger. Low battery volts is a common cause of problems on these cars. Thirty minutes or so after coming off a charger, assuming the charger is any good and has been connected for a few hours, you should see at least 12.8 volts.
 
Datatek said:
That is not far off a flat battery if that is all you have after it came off the charger. Low battery volts is a common cause of problems on these cars. Thirty minutes or so after coming off a charger, assuming the charger is any good and has been connected for a few hours, you should see at least 12.8 volts.
Click to expand...
Ok that’s interesting I will have a look at that as my next move then.
 
Hmmmm.....I don't know of the 'Wait 30mins' message you talk of, never heard of that one before.....

Any how - I would surmise, either your throttle body is fecked or your accelerator pedal is fecked.....there are very few faults that would cause 'Engine Failsafe' messages on the M62 engine and by far the most common is throttle body issues....followed by pedal.
 
12.4 on an l322 is considered in some circles to be ****ered especially after being charged..


What is the running voltage?
 
Saint.V8 said:
Hmmmm.....I don't know of the 'Wait 30mins' message you talk of, never heard of that one before.....

Any how - I would surmise, either your throttle body is fecked or your accelerator pedal is fecked.....there are very few faults that would cause 'Engine Failsafe' messages on the M62 engine and by far the most common is throttle body issues....followed by pedal.
Click to expand...
Ahh ok, I will start looking into that as well thank you. The message was a weird one, if the screen worked apparently it would show me a countdown?? The clue was the alarm would go off when I connected the battery.
 
Henry_b said:
12.4 on an l322 is considered in some circles to be ****ered especially after being charged..


What is the running voltage?
Click to expand...
Not sure I will run a test on it tomorrow. Do some compare on running and running under load. It was a new battery about a year ago but not going to assume that it’s ok because of that.
 
nickrc said:
Ahh ok, I will start looking into that as well thank you. The message was a weird one, if the screen worked apparently it would show me a countdown?? The clue was the alarm would go off when I connected the battery.
Click to expand...
I have never seen nor have I heard of a countdown before! Even RAVE (the Land Rover manuals) nor anything I have read about the BMW systems the L322 is based on seem to mention it.

The Alarm would sound if the battery was disconnected and then reconnected while the vehicle was still in a locked/alarmed state.

As an example, my battery was flat this morning, as my L322 is laid up waiting for me to do the rear suspension bushes....battery flat, won't even unlock the doors on the keyfob.

So, open door with key in lock, open bonnet, connect jump leads to power on the car, alarm goes off, turn off alarm using buttons, lock the car, unlock the car (alarm is now shutoff and the car is no longer alarmed) wait for 5 minutes for the satnav drive to shutdown, disconnect negative lead, the car is now unlocked, unalarmed and now fully rested.....

Once you reconnect the battery, because the car is in an unlocked, unalarmed state, it won't set the alarm off, or invoke the immobiliser.

If you need to lock the car while the battery is disconnected, make sure you key works in the mechanical drivers door lock....then go round and lock all the doors manually, close the drivers door and lock with the key....When you need to put the battery back in, unlock using the key in the door, open the bonnet, connect the battery, close the door, lock then unlock the car - all the doors and the tailgate will unlock - and then start the car....simples.
 
Saint.V8 said:
I have never seen nor have I heard of a countdown before! Even RAVE (the Land Rover manuals) nor anything I have read about the BMW systems the L322 is based on seem to mention it.

The Alarm would sound if the battery was disconnected and then reconnected while the vehicle was still in a locked/alarmed state.

As an example, my battery was flat this morning, as my L322 is laid up waiting for me to do the rear suspension bushes....battery flat, won't even unlock the doors on the keyfob.

So, open door with key in lock, open bonnet, connect jump leads to power on the car, alarm goes off, turn off alarm using buttons, lock the car, unlock the car (alarm is now shutoff and the car is no longer alarmed) wait for 5 minutes for the satnav drive to shutdown, disconnect negative lead, the car is now unlocked, unalarmed and now fully rested.....

Once you reconnect the battery, because the car is in an unlocked, unalarmed state, it won't set the alarm off, or invoke the immobiliser.

If you need to lock the car while the battery is disconnected, make sure you key works in the mechanical drivers door lock....then go round and lock all the doors manually, close the drivers door and lock with the key....When you need to put the battery back in, unlock using the key in the door, open the bonnet, connect the battery, close the door, lock then unlock the car - all the doors and the tailgate will unlock - and then start the car....simples.
Click to expand...
Sorry I should have said it was the EKA code lockout, it would have asked me for the code on the screen (if i could see it) so to bypass it you need to wait for 30 mins.
 
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