Intake Manifold Freelander2

ChieftainMK2 · Jan 19, 2023

Hi Guys.
I have just found out I have to remove my Inlet Manifold on my 2009 Freelander 2 to replace my Heater Plugs. I cannot find anything on Youtube showing the stipdown procedure but I am sure its straight forward, what I want to ask is, I know I will have to replace the Inlet manifold Gasket BUT is it one long gasket (Much like a little cylinder head gasket) or are they just independant Ring gaskets ?? Thanks in Advance.

Nodge68 · Jan 19, 2023

The inlet manifold is a pain to remove the first time, as it needs lots of stripping of other components, which is why people don't bother replacing plugs unless other work is being done in that area.
The fuel filter needs removing, and then it's sturdy crash protection cradle. Fuel lines need moving aside, and harness branches need to be unclipped and moved out the way. The vacuum hose needs moving too.

Obviously the boost hose needs disconnecting, but the throttle body also needs removing to allow room for the manifold to be extracted. Also put a bag over the boost hose, as its really easy to drop a nut, bolt or anything else small down the open boost pipe, which will then be ingested by the engine (don't ask how I know).
The top hose bracket on the rad cowl needs to come off, which has seemingly hidden clips.
The manifold is also retained by a collection of hard to fine bolts.
Once free it can be eased away from the head, making sure that nothing is still connected or snagged.

Once off you can get to the plugs, which should be straightforward, but don't force any that refuse to turn, as the break really easily.

You will need to replace the 4 manifold O ring seals, and the 4 shaped rubber seals before refitting.
It's sensible to remove the swirl flaps too while the manifold is off.

Rank Amatuer · Jan 21, 2023

Nodge68 said:
The inlet manifold is a pain to remove the first time, as it needs lots of stripping of other components, which is why people don't bother replacing plugs unless other work is being done in that area.
The fuel filter needs removing, and then it's sturdy crash protection cradle. Fuel lines need moving aside, and harness branches need to be unclipped and moved out the way. The vacuum hose needs moving too.

Obviously the boost hose needs disconnecting, but the throttle body also needs removing to allow room for the manifold to be extracted. Also put a bag over the boost hose, as its really easy to drop a nut, bolt or anything else small down the open boost pipe, which will then be ingested by the engine (don't ask how I know).
The top hose bracket on the rad cowl needs to come off, which has seemingly hidden clips.
The manifold is also retained by a collection of hard to fine bolts.
Once free it can be eased away from the head, making sure that nothing is still connected or snagged.

Once off you can get to the plugs, which should be straightforward, but don't force any that refuse to turn, as the break really easily.

You will need to replace the 4 manifold O ring seals, and the 4 shaped rubber seals before refitting.
It's sensible to remove the swirl flaps too while the manifold is off.

Which is why I’ve never bothered replacing glow plugs on my FL2. It starts fine without them. If I lived in Scandinavia it would be a different story though.

Nodge68 · Jan 21, 2023

Rank Amatuer said:
Which is why I’ve never bothered replacing glow plugs on my FL2.

I only did mine while doing other work.
However I'd much rather be doing the glow plugs over changing the EGR cooler, which I'm hoping to get finished today, as that is a real ball ache of a job.

ChieftainMK2 · Jan 21, 2023

Hi Nodge68.
Yes I have decided to do mine when i do the service, I mean I have to remove the fuel filter and air filter so i may make a day of it and do the heater plugs at the same time. actually there maybe a question that you can answer or me, the plastic cover over the engine, I took this off and all the foam has rotted away in parts, can I replace the foam with just any foam and spray glue it on or does it have to be a special foam, and do you know if you can buy replacement foam already cut out.

Nodge68 · Jan 21, 2023

ChieftainMK2 said:
Hi Nodge68.
Yes I have decided to do mine when i do the service, I mean I have to remove the fuel filter and air filter so i may make a day of it and do the heater plugs at the same time. actually there maybe a question that you can answer or me, the plastic cover over the engine, I took this off and all the foam has rotted away in parts, can I replace the foam with just any foam and spray glue it on or does it have to be a special foam, and do you know if you can buy replacement foam already cut out.

The factory foam is a high density, closed cell foam which is designed to reduce engine noise.
Unfortunately in the high temperature environment where it's used, it eventually falls apart.
Mine was in a right old state, so I removed it completely, leaving the clean plastic of the cover.
I will add some specialist engine bay sound proofing material at some point, the type that has the reflective finish. However it's not particularly high on the to do list, as there's only a negligible increase in top end noise without the foam.

ChieftainMK2 · Jan 21, 2023

Thanks Nodge.
So is there specialised firms that sell the engine bay sound proofing that you know of,? and does it make a noticable difference or no difference at all, I mean any difference must be helpful.

Nodge68 · Jan 21, 2023

ChieftainMK2 said:
Thanks Nodge.
So is there specialised firms that sell the engine bay sound proofing that you know of,? and does it make a noticable difference or no difference at all, I mean any difference must be helpful.

Yes there are. I used to use loads of it when I was restoring classic cars.

It's a diesel, so short of putting it in a sound proof box, any improvements will be small.
It will cut down on value train clatter a bit, which these PSA value trains are kinda known for.

ChieftainMK2 · Jan 21, 2023

Nodge68 said:
Yes there are. I used to use loads of it when I was restoring classic cars.

It's a diesel, so short of putting it in a sound proof box, any improvements will be small.
It will cut down on value train clatter a bit, which these PSA value trains are kinda known for.

So do i just look around the York area fro a car sound proofing company then ask them to sell me a roll of the stuff, or is it already shaped for different car engine covers, plus if ts on a roll, can i just also stick it to the underside of the bonnet, help quieten it a bit more ?

Nodge68 · Jan 21, 2023

ChieftainMK2 said:
So do i just look around the York area fro a car sound proofing company then ask them to sell me a roll of the stuff, or is it already shaped for different car engine covers, plus if ts on a roll, can i just also stick it to the underside of the bonnet, help quieten it a bit more ?

I used to buy it on the roll and cut it to fit. It came from a company call Frosts, although they weren't exactly cheap.

It's normally held in place with spray contact adhesive.
Amazon will probably sell it these days.

ChieftainMK2 · Jan 21, 2023

Thanks mate, Thats much appreciated I will have a look on Amazon, and is it called Car Sound Proofing ?

ChieftainMK2 · Jan 21, 2023

Nodge68.

Nodge68 said:
I used to buy it on the roll and cut it to fit. It came from a company call Frosts, although they weren't exactly cheap.

It's normally held in place with spray contact adhesive.
Amazon will probably sell it these days.

I have just found it on Amazon. Thank you again for your help. much appreciated.

Intake Manifold Freelander2

ChieftainMK2

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Nodge68

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Rank Amatuer

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Nodge68

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ChieftainMK2

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